So, I sold my Wicked Edge...

Twindog said:
Sure, you can also flip over your coffee cup and make a quick pass. But you're over-lawyering the issue.

For a system to fully sharpen, including reprofiling, to create a high-quality edge, no manual system is going to be faster than a WE. It takes only a minute or so to clamp the blade in place. The stones slip over the rods in a few seconds. I reprofile my edges with a 50-grit diamond stone, followed by the full progression of diamond stones, on to ceramics and strops. What manual system reprofiles faster than a 50-grit diamond stone, especially when you can sharpen both sides of the edge without repositioning the blade through a full progression of stones?

I use the SharpMaker for micro-bevels, but not for reprofiling or full sharpening. If I need to take a dull edge to full sharpness, my SM is not going to even come close to the WE, either in terms of speed or the quality of the final edge. It will put a micro-bevel on a nearly sharp edge faster than a WE, but that's a specific case for one aspect of sharpening.

My point wasn't that you couldn't come up with some slap-dash way to create something approximating an edge faster than the WE, but if time is the reason that you're selling the Wicked Edge, you're not likely to find a faster manual system for the full spectrum of sharpening to create a high-quality edge.

For that reason, I'd suggest the OP look to a powered system. The WorkSharp will be faster and suitable for an apartment, but it won't give as high a quality edge that the WE can produce. But I gathered from the OP that he doesn't need a super sharp edge, just a good, sharp working edge.
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For the record, one can still get a hair whittling edge on the WSKO.
The WE is an great system but its not the holy grail. Like all things in life its the user not the tool.
 
I very much agree. I've put edges that would tree-top hair on a bunch of blades with nothing more than a few different grits of sandpaper and a mousepad. If you know what you're doing and have your technique down, you don't need anything fancy to get a sharp edge.
 
If you go with the ko work sharp I 100% recommend getting the blade grinding attachment. It yields results way better than the ko alone, easier to use (imo) and more versatile.

Also with the ko alone you usually end up with a high ground convex edge, which sometimes is good, but with the attachment you have options. You can easily match a shallow factory grind, or put a micro bevel on. You control the pressure you're placing on the belt, so you control what the edge will be.
 
I agree with Bobby3326. I think the WSKO with the blade grinding attachment is the answer you are looking for; It's a lot quicker than the WE both in setup and in use. I haven't had mine long, but I'm really liking it. OTOH, I use my WE about twice/year because it's so slow in setup and in use.
 
Bobby3326 said:
If you go with the ko work sharp I 100% recommend getting the blade grinding attachment. It yields results way better than the ko alone, easier to use (imo) and more versatile.

Also with the ko alone you usually end up with a high ground convex edge, which sometimes is good, but with the attachment you have options. You can easily match a shallow factory grind, or put a micro bevel on. You control the pressure you're placing on the belt, so you control what the edge will be.
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Yeah, I was looking on amazon and have watched a few videos. It looks like I can scrape the whole kit together for about $200 total, if I buy the "used - like new" amazon warehouse deals.

Thank you for all the input, guys. I think I'll keep my strop and diamond paddles for now to tide me over and keep an eye out for a good deal on the WSKO and attachment. I don't need to rush out and buy it right away, as all of my edges are pretty easily maintained at present with what I have - but I know that I will eventually wind up with a blade that would be just -that much better- with a 30-degree-inclusive edge.

Thanks again, everyone!
 
You know you can use the WSKO freehand all by itself right? Just take off the guide and go. It doesn't have a platen. The belt runs at an angle off from vertical (as opposed to perfectly vertical). The belts are 3/4" versus 1" for the BGA. But it gets the job done. Every blade I've sharpened on the WSKO has been done freehand.

I would actually really enjoy having the BGA myself. It just can't justify the expense and re-buying all of the belts in the new size for the BGA. I feel like I should put that money towards a "real" belt sander.

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
You know you can use the WSKO freehand all by itself right? Just take off the guide and go. It doesn't have a platen. The belt runs at an angle off from vertical (as opposed to perfectly vertical). The belts are 3/4" versus 1" for the BGA. But it gets the job done. Every blade I've sharpened on the WSKO has been done freehand.

I would actually really enjoy having the BGA myself. It just can't justify the expense and re-buying all of the belts in the new size for the BGA. I feel like I should put that money towards a "real" belt sander.

Brian.
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I chose it over a 1x30 simply for space and portability. I repurposed an old dewalt sawzall case and made my set up for traveling. The whole set up along with various other sharpening methods fits in they're nice. I store there when not in use and when I'm driving for work.
 
I have been following this thread. Today I broke out my edge pro, a different rig but takes a while to set up and calibrate for the stones used and the knife. Got my note book out, sharpened a folder and a kitchen knife and it was a pain in the ass. I have all the dmt 8" and a respectable collection of shaptons glass plates.
I could see this sucker going down the road. My new motto may become " live free hand, die free hand..." If I sell it will just buy another gyuto and maintain it on the shaptons.

Have a good night guys, Russ
 
Here's the typical results I get with ko grinding attachment.

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I get even better results when I take my time.
 
Does it round the tip? That's something that drives me nuts.
 
They are both guided systems, but that's about where the similarities end. They're nothing alike in terms of construction, build quality, blade securing and positioning, durability, ease of use, and sharpening speed. In other words, they're really not close to the same. Coming from someone who has spent extensive time with both.
 
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AntDog said:
I very much agree. I've put edges that would tree-top hair on a bunch of blades with nothing more than a few different grits of sandpaper and a mousepad. If you know what you're doing and have your technique down, you don't need anything fancy to get a sharp edge.
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Well said. It's only the tool if you don't know the goal. There is way to much money being spent that would be better spent on a fine new blade.
 
Comeuppance, get the WSKO and be done with it. I've had the DMT system, the Sharpmaker, and the Edge Pro Apex. I will never go back to those after using the Work Sharp. For those that say you can't get a clean, screaming edge with that machine, well, I think Bobby3326 put an end to that nonsense. Don't even worry about getting the grinding attachment (unless you really want to) as I've only ever used the normal belts and yes I do use the angle guides and yet I still get my knives just as sharp as I did with any other system I've used.

Just like you I used to dread sharpening my knives because of the time it took. Now I actually look forward to doing it because I know in 5-10 minutes I will have a bad-ass edge back on my blade. I even sharpen all my co-workers knives now for free. I'm not knocking any other system but for the money you pay and the results that you get and the TIME it saves, I wouldn't trade this little machine for anything else. My only regret is not getting one sooner!
 
jonnyt16 said:
Comeuppance, get the WSKO and be done with it. I've had the DMT system, the Sharpmaker, and the Edge Pro Apex. I will never go back to those after using the Work Sharp. For those that say you can't get a clean, screaming edge with that machine, well, I think Bobby3326 put an end to that nonsense. Don't even worry about getting the grinding attachment (unless you really want to) as I've only ever used the normal belts and yes I do use the angle guides and yet I still get my knives just as sharp as I did with any other system I've used.

Just like you I used to dread sharpening my knives because of the time it took. Now I actually look forward to doing it because I know in 5-10 minutes I will have a bad-ass edge back on my blade. I even sharpen all my co-workers knives now for free. I'm not knocking any other system but for the money you pay and the results that you get and the TIME it saves, I wouldn't trade this little machine for anything else. My only regret is not getting one sooner!
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I recommend the grinding attachment bc it allows you more control over sharpening. With the standard it's real way to tear thru some steel, especially with the course belts. With the blade grinding attachment you can remove as lil or as much steel as you want by simply adjusting pressure, also depending on pulley placement you can achieve a more pronounced convex, or almost a v edge with a slight convex. Then on the 90° backside you can sharpen scandi grinds, put a 90° spine on a knife. Like I said before it's just more versatile, I primarily only use it now instead of the stock attachment.
 
Took my Worksharp with blade grinding attachment down to a customers (I sell him load securing supplies) today to sharpen all his knives as a favor to him. Hadn't used it in about 6 months but it really is a sweet setup. For me the blade grinding attachment really makes the machine. You have such nice control and visual access of the blade in contact with the belt it's really easy to do good, proper work. I use 2/3 to 3/4 of max rpm and light pressure to minimize convexing of the bevel.

Good stuff.

Bobby3326 said:
I recommend the grinding attachment bc it allows you more control over sharpening. With the standard it's real way to tear thru some steel, especially with the course belts. With the blade grinding attachment you can remove as lil or as much steel as you want by simply adjusting pressure, also depending on pulley placement you can achieve a more pronounced convex, or almost a v edge with a slight convex. Then on the 90° backside you can sharpen scandi grinds, put a 90° spine on a knife. Like I said before it's just more versatile, I primarily only use it now instead of the stock attachment.
Click to expand...
 
uofaengr said:
They are both guided systems, but that's about where the similarities end. They're nothing alike in terms of construction, build quality, blade securing and positioning, durability, ease of use, and sharpening speed. In other words, they're really not close to the same. Coming from someone who has spent extensive time with both.
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So which one is so much nicer than the other, in your opinion.......
Russ
 
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