So what is the measure of sharpness to go by?

it is very simple. a 1 millimeter width blade is sharper than a centimeter width blade. a 1 micrometer blade is sharper than a 1 millimeter blade, a 1 nanometer width blade sharper than a 1 micrometer blade, a 1 picometer wide blade sharper than a 1 nanometer width blade, and so on.

Wrong. But thanks for playing. Blades don't magically become "0 thick" immediately. So all blades are a nanometer thick at some point.
 
it is very simple. a 1 millimeter width blade is sharper than a centimeter width blade. a 1 micrometer blade is sharper than a 1 millimeter blade, a 1 nanometer width blade sharper than a 1 micrometer blade, a 1 picometer wide blade sharper than a 1 nanometer width blade, and so on.

All that talk about having to go to universities that have million dollar equipment when all you're saying is a thinner blade cuts better.
A dull razor blade will out cut a sharp chopper because its thinner, not because it's sharper. We all know that.

What are you saying about measuring sharpness ?
 
All that talk about having to go to universities that have million dollar equipment when all you're saying is a thinner blade cuts better.
A dull razor blade will out cut a sharp chopper because its thinner, not because it's sharper. We all know that.

What are you saying about measuring sharpness ?

sharpness can have a precise numerical value attached to it but this requires highly sophisticated instruments out of reach of most people.
 
For those type of cutting chores I sharpen no finer than 320 grit. This will give you a slightly toothy edge , I then buff/polish the wire/burr off of the edge.
This is done on a slack belt so the edge is con vexed and is very strong as well..

Your mileage may vary!:)

320 grit? Like sandpaper?
 
sharpness can have a precise numerical value attached to it but this requires highly sophisticated instruments out of reach of most people.

So there are blades that are 1 picometer wide at their narrowest point?
 
Laugh all you want, but after a sharpening session, out of boredom I shaved a patch on my leg where my sock goes, as I thought, "Who's going to see that?". Well, later that week I fell and broke my leg and had to have surgery. Wonder if it was noticed....

When I first started to sharpen to BF standards, I stopped wearing shorts because the bald patches on my legs made me look like I had some skin disease.
 
Marcinek you just wouldnt even understand... only those of us with very sophisticated equipment can comprehend this theory:D
 
So all blades achieve this thickness? thinness?

If they do, then all blades have the same sharpness, based on your theory.

No if this is NOT the case the only option is that all blades hit some minimum, measurable thickness and then become, instantaneous ly perfectly flat.

Which is it, Skippy?
 
Fascinating thread, will read more in the AM. I have a Sharpmaker, but I suck at using it, lol. A really sharp knife is nice, but I'd be covered in bandaids. I'm one of those idiots that 'flips' my knife in the air - like, I throw it up in the air and catch it, lol. I very rarely drop the knife or whatever I'm throwing around. It's closing the knife too quickly that will bite me. With that being said, it's sometimes nice to have a moderately sharp knife. Lol!

As far as sharpest, my Delica and Dragonfly were very sharp from the factory. However, I bought a Benchmade 531 a while back that was shockingly sharp. The first day using it, opening a case of bottled water, I ran the knife the full length of the top of the packaging. I pierced 4 bottles along the way, nearly decapitated 2 of them, and had no idea. Like butter. I haven't experienced anything like that since. It was cool. :D
 
I have read that some chipped stones can get to edges that are a few atoms thick. THAT is sharp. I think the theoretical edge can vary from one steel to another, something like the sizes of the carbides, etc.

I've bought a lot of different factory knives and different brands tend to come at different sharpness. Buck, Gerber, CRKT, Kershaw, ZT, Benchmade, Spyderco- I have found that the Spyderco knives are much more likely to come out of the box pretty sharp. I don't worry about it though, if they come sharp I use them, if they don't come sharp I sharpen them. I found that a little stropping after sharpening gives and edge plenty sharp for my needs.

Other than Catra testing, it seems that it is difficult to measure sharpness in a way that you can describe it to another person or compare with another person's tests. I don't do any hair shaving on myself and I never got the fingernail trick to work. I'm not sure that either one of these tells you that a knife is really sharp. For my I've found that if I can cut the thin shiny paper that advertisements in the sunday paper are printed on, that is pretty sharp. This stuff seems much harder to cut than standard printer paper.
 
Well in my experience in makes a heck of a difference in ease of cutting with a mirror edge. The biggest difference IMO is just getting rid of the factory edge, I can get a 120 grit edge more uniformly ground, polished and sharper than any factory edge I have laid hands on and it cuts much smoother due to that. When it comes down to it, factory edges just suck IMO, they may be sharp but the scratch pattern just never seems to cut as easily as a proper sharpening job done by an individual rather than the factory methods. However, whatever sharpness does the neccessary job is totally adequate, im just a bit of a sharpness snob:thumbup:
 
If it takes off my leg hair, it's good. (Not enough arm hair left to test at the current moment.) or can push cut a free hanging bit of magazine paper for my slicers.
 
Im reading alot that factory sharp is in fact not sharp. I thought my Benchmades were very sharp but I am mistaken lol. What is "sharp"?

320 grit? Like sandpaper?

Yes, Its on the toothy side and works great for heavy cardboard Plastic ties and the other items you mentioned cutting. I start at 120 grit for all knives and then 320 grit, 600 grit on up to 2000 grit depending on the purpose of the knife. Americana/German type Culinary gets taken to 600 grit then Japanese go to 2000 grit. You can get yourself a mouse pad like for a computer and sheets of sandpaper and do it by hand. I use my 2 x 72" variable speed knife making grinder. Start low and work your way up in the grits and test at each level to find what works for you.

Also you can use an old leather belt to strop the edges and remove the burr.

Marcinek you just wouldn't even understand... only those of us with very sophisticated equipment can comprehend this theory:D


Yes this sharpening quantitive theory does seem to be above up simpletons around here. :rolleyes:
 
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