Some questions about bowies and hidden tangs

Bob Ohlemann

Bob Ohlemann

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Dec 5, 2013
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I've been inspired by all the amazing bowies I've seen on this forum. I decided that I want to try a couple to push my skills. Below is a line drawing I did for the profile. I'm going to use 1/4" 1084 for the blade.

First question is about length of the tang. I have no idea how long to make it. I think it is a little too long right now because the butt of the handle will be about an inch beyond it.

Next, what about tang width? What do you guys try to maintain for clearance between the top and bottom of the tang and the outside of the handle? Handle material will be some kind of stabilized wood.

I know I will have more questions but these are the ones in my head right now. Thanks guys.

Bob

Hidden-tang-bowie by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Bob,
I like the profile. Leave the tang long for now, as you can shorten later as needed. I like the tang to be wider at the shoulder. You will gain a lot of strength if the shoulders were say only about 1/8". That would still leave a lot of overhang for the guard. It is also something you could narrow down later if you had to. Nice looking knife. Good luck.
 
More experienced makers may feel differently but it doesn't sound to me like your tang is too long. I prefer to have as much tang under the handle as I can reasonably fit. I tend to leave my tang wider at the shoulders though. I don't think you need to take such a big step down to the tang from the ricasso and I would add a small radius in the corners as well. Otherwise, it looks pretty nice. Can't wait to see that one finished out.
 
Ok, thanks guys. Very helpful. Next question; the shoulder area of the tang that the guard slips over, does that need to be parallel top and bottom? I'm planning that the guard will be 3/4" in length so I'm thinking that the slot and the tang should fit snugly the full length. Hope that question makes sense, I modified the sketch to show what I'm talking about and included your suggestions.

Bob

Hidden-tang-bowie-02 by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Bob- Nice looking design. :) One thing that jumps out at me though, is the spine looks like it is a gentle hump... maybe it's just the img on the laptop screen, IDK. But if there is a hump, I'd suggest you make that line either straight, or a gentle up-swept curve. :)


I try to shove as much tang in the handle as I can.

I usually try to keep the top and bottom lines of the tang straight (not parallel, but straight) it makes the fit-up much easier IMHO.

Here's what most of mine are like---

medium800.jpg
 
Forgot I had this photo.

Here's an example of one that I needed a step-down in the tang, because of the heavy drop in the handle and the fittings I used.

medium800.jpg
 
NickWheeler said:
Bob- Nice looking design. :) One thing that jumps out at me though, is the spine looks like it is a gentle hump... maybe it's just the img on the laptop screen, IDK. But if there is a hump, I'd suggest you make that line either straight, or a gentle up-swept curve. :)
Click to expand...

You were right. I hadn't really noticed it but the hump was there. I straightened it and am heading out to the shop to see what kind of damage I can do. Thanks.

Bob
 
Ok, here's what I got done this afternoon. Feel free to tell me if I've screwed anything up so far. BTW, does anybody do their swedges first? I've been thinking it might be easier. Anyway, on to the pictures.

Cut out a pattern in 16ga steel.

Bowie pattern by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Traced said pattern onto 1/4" 1084. I've started tracing my patterns with a carbide tipped scribe to get a little better scratch because sometimes the Dykem burns off while grinding.

Scribing bowie by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Roughed out on the bandsaw.

Bowie roughed out by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Profiled on the flat platen.

Profiling done by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Squared the shoulders with a file.

Bowie squaring shoulders by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Ground primary bevels to 400grit.

Bowie primary bevels complete by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Ground swedge.

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Cleaned up spine and choil.

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
That looks fantastic Bob. I think the straighter line across the top helped a lot. That last photo makes the blade look 1/2" thick. ;)
 
That has nice lines to it Bob. :)


I'd recommend you grind a whole lot more steel off the blade... without any distal taper, it will never handle as well as it will with it. ;) :)

And leave a little bit of meat where the guard shoulders will be, so you can cut them in clean when the blade is 98.437% finished. :)

This should be real nice when it's done! :thumbup:
 
That escalated quickly :)

Well done....
 
NickWheeler said:
I'd recommend you grind a whole lot more steel off the blade... without any distal taper, it will never handle as well as it will with it. ;) :)

And leave a little bit of meat where the guard shoulders will be, so you can cut them in clean when the blade is 98.437% finished. :)

This should be real nice when it's done! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

So Nick, I spent some time looking up how to accomplish distal taper and every person who started a thread asking about distal taper was prompted by some remark like yours. Frankly, I'm pretty sure that if I attempt to put distal taper on this blade, it will end up in the trash. I can certainly see that it needs it, I just don't think I'm ready to do it yet. Maybe that is why someone at my level should not attempt a bowie.

Bob
 
Bob- I have confidence in 'ya. If you could do what you've done so far... you can certainly change the taper. Not trying to push you toward something you're not comfortable with, rather encourage you about trying something that will make your knife exponentially better in the end. :)

All you need to do, is continue grinding it the way you have so far, but apply more pressure on the spine as you work toward the tip.

I'd be glad to help if you have questions about it. :)
 
I agree with nick. I have been grinding distal taper in my knives since the first, and it is second nature to me now. It makes a big difference in how the knife feels in hand. Your grinds are nice, so you have the skill to do it. Maybe try colouring the blade with sharpie, and making light passes on each side keeping them even? I have a similar profile which I just fit the guard to, and the taper makes it light in hand. I'll see if I can get a pic up today.
 
NickWheeler said:
And leave a little bit of meat where the guard shoulders will be, so you can cut them in clean when the blade is 98.437% finished.
Click to expand...

I'd have to strongly disagree with Nick here. 98.437% finished is just a bit too close to call. If I were you I'd wait until you were around 98.426% finished. Give yourself a little bit more leeway.
 
Michael Rader said:
I'd have to strongly disagree with Nick here. 98.437% finished is just a bit too close to call. If I were you I'd wait until you were around 98.426% finished. Give yourself a little bit more leeway.
Click to expand...

Oh...well, that makes a lot more sense! I couldn't help feeling that Nick was steering me down the wrong path. I shouldn't have any trouble now!

Bob
 
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