Some Sharpmaker Help please?

tommytman said:
I do not know if this will help but....i went to congress tools and bought a couple of the 'moldmaster' 'hard SiC' 1/2 inch triangles to use in the SM. I will post back on how they are. They are pretty cheap and I got the 120 and 240 grit. Lets see if they cut faster than the diamond triangles. I saw an old post that said they do.....we will see.
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I have a couple of those and have posted on it previously.

I have, at best, moderate success with the moldmasters and I think one is better off with the diamond sharpmaker rod.
 
soc_monki said:
Get the diamond or cbn rods. Trying to profile a knife with the brown stones will take you, literally, forever. That's not what they're for. Using the diamond/cbn put a 30 degree edge on the knife. When you've apexed using the coarse rods then deburr, switch to the brown rods in the 40 degree slots and microbevel.

Also, your edge will suffer when you get frustrated or tired. Take a break. Use the tools how they are supposed to be used and you'll get good results. Honestly, spyderco should bundle the diamond or cbn with the brown rods instead of the brown and white.
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Everything you said, although I skip the 40 degree slots.
I swapped out the white rods with diamond in the case. The white ones are stored in the tubes the diamonds came in and rarely used.
 
jpm2 said:
Everything you said, although I skip the 40 degree slots.
I swapped out the white rods with diamond in the case. The white ones are stored in the tubes the diamonds came in and rarely used.
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You definitely don't have to use a microbevel, but for beginners I find it helps them deburr the blade. It's almost automatic, as long as they don't do too many swipes at 40 degrees. Then you can start creating a new burr and... Frustration lol
 
tommytman, I use generic window cleaner on our Congress Silicon carbide stones (SIC). Have used them on various non-powder steels with good results- N680, N690, 154CM, etc. And price is right. Sharpmaker form factor allows me to use these coarser stones with corners for serrations. I'm happy.
 
soc_monki, I saw my simple recipe was getting not simple, so I removed micro beveling at 30 degrees, stropping with Levi's and fine stone progression, because medium rod is about 12-14 microns ~800-900 grit. Spyderco's instructions also help. Technique for tweaking Sharpmaker angles is a kludge but it extended its usefulness for us. It also helped kids with some hands on practical angle finding, which is a good general skill to have for their future.
 
scottc3 said:
tommytman, I use generic window cleaner on our Congress Silicon carbide stones (SIC). Have used them on various non-powder steels with good results- N680, N690, 154CM, etc. And price is right. Sharpmaker form factor allows me to use these coarser stones with corners for serrations. I'm happy.
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Thanks. Do you know if the coarse SiC mildmaker stones work on s30v or s110v?
 
scottc3 said:
soc_monki, I saw my simple recipe was getting not simple, so I removed micro beveling at 30 degrees, stropping with Levi's and fine stone progression, because medium rod is about 12-14 microns ~800-900 grit. Spyderco's instructions also help. Technique for tweaking Sharpmaker angles is a kludge but it extended its usefulness for us. It also helped kids with some hands on practical angle finding, which is a good general skill to have for their future.
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I switched to freehand sharpening for the ultimate in simplicity haha!
 
AntDog said:
Probably the way the knife is being held. I used to use a saber grip with my thumb on the spine to sharpen with the sharpmaker, but I found out that the knife was actually tilted a few degrees to the left instead of straight up and down.

After much trail and error, I found I can hold it completely straight up and down if I use a hammer type of grip with my thumb wrapped around the left scale. It’s the only way I seem to be able to hold it absolutely vertical.
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Just wanna say, at least visually using a hammer grip seems to allow me to keep the blade vertical better. Thanks for the tip.
soc_monki said:
Get the diamond or cbn rods. Trying to profile a knife with the brown stones will take you, literally, forever. That's not what they're for. Using the diamond/cbn put a 30 degree edge on the knife. When you've apexed using the coarse rods then deburr, switch to the brown rods in the 40 degree slots and microbevel.

Also, your edge will suffer when you get frustrated or tired. Take a break. Use the tools how they are supposed to be used and you'll get good results. Honestly, spyderco should bundle the diamond or cbn with the brown rods instead of the brown and white.
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I understood 60 percent of what you said. But I will learn.

So, I ordered the diamond rods tonight. After spending this much on this sharpening system I really hope I don't screw up my knives but more importantly that I can get those razor factory edges back.

I don't have a lot of free time these days so I think I rush when I do manage to find a half hour to hour to sharpen. Also, I most definitely did f up my Lawman because when I got pissed that night I was going so fast I stabbed one of the rods and broke the very tip :mad:. Either that or I rolled the tip off the rods so much I just blunted it.

Reason why I'm trying to fix my Lawman is it's my favorite EDC at the moment and I already messed it up so I've been trying to fix it. I'll put it aside until the diamond rods come in though.

I've also been practicing with my Civivi Baklash since it's the cheapest knife I have and I also want to get it back to its razor slicey self. And I think it's the softest of the knife steels I have?

Thanks for the guidance guys. I'm definitely gonna look back here when the diamond rods come in and re-read everything lol.
 
If the hammer grip helps you hold it completely vertical hold it that way when you get the diamond rods, and if you want your pointy tip back, start with the flats, not the corners.

When the tip gets to the middle of the flat part of the rod, stop. Then lift the knife up and run it down the other side (stopping with the tip in the center of the flat of the rod). This will get the sharp tip back.

The tip gets rounded by dragging it off the edge of the sharpmaker rods. It’s a notoriously prevalent issue with the sharpmaker. Just STOP when the tip gets to the middle of the flat and lift up and do the other side. Think of it as “don’t sharpen the tip - sharpen to the tip”.

Also, diamonds cut FAST. Very fast. Try 6-8 strokes then check your work. They remove steel a lot faster than the ceramics. I learned that lesson the hard way. Don’t repeat my mistake. If you sharpen like sh!t on ceramic stones, you’ll do the same with diamonds only 5 times faster.

Good luck.
 
UPDATE: After reading some reviews of the diamond particles coming off the rods quite easily, I ordered the CBN rods. Planning on returning the diamond ones since from what I hear, they are comparable for metal removal and the CBN supposed to keep the particles on the rods better.

Idk, you guys let me know. Is this still an issue with 2020 Spyderco diamond rods? Which ones should I keep? I'm definitely sending one pair back as I've spent enough already, ya know?
 
You will get some shedding at first, because they are breaking in. This happens with all diamond stones that have a plated surface. After break in the surface will smooth out a little, but still cut quickly.
As long as you don't use a ton of pressure you won't have problems with the diamonds coming off. I've had mine for probably a year and they still work great. Light pressure, do 10 strokes and check. When you get used to it you can go up and down the rods and double your sharpening speed!
 
Yes, light pressure and you will get years of good service from the diamond rods. I find them essential for most new production knives. From there, the brown and white rods that come with the set are plenty effective.
 
soc_monki said:
You will get some shedding at first, because they are breaking in. This happens with all diamond stones that have a plated surface. After break in the surface will smooth out a little, but still cut quickly.
As long as you don't use a ton of pressure you won't have problems with the diamonds coming off. I've had mine for probably a year and they still work great. Light pressure, do 10 strokes and check. When you get used to it you can go up and down the rods and double your sharpening speed!
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So, first, are you saying I should stick with the diamond and send back the CBN rods? I read somewhere that the CBNs were an upgrade to the diamond rods.

Secondly, by light pressure... Are we talking like weight of the knife? Or like spreading cold butter on toast?

I've probably been using too much pressure because I was getting frustrated with the brown rods not removing enough metal. Anyway, please let me know which rods to keep. I read a lot of reviews where people overstress the light pressure advice claiming the diamond pieces come off too easily. I just really don't want to waste $60. And I also read the CBN rods are comparable so...
 
BJ987 said:
So, first, are you saying I should stick with the diamond and send back the CBN rods? I read somewhere that the CBNs were an upgrade to the diamond rods.

Secondly, by light pressure... Are we talking like weight of the knife? Or like spreading cold butter on toast?

I've probably been using too much pressure because I was getting frustrated with the brown rods not removing enough metal. Anyway, please let me know which rods to keep. I read a lot of reviews where people overstress the light pressure advice claiming the diamond pieces come off too easily. I just really don't want to waste $60. And I also read the CBN rods are comparable so...
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The cbn and diamond are the same "grit". They are just a different material. Either one is fine, so its really up to you which one you want to stick with. You'll have to be careful not to use too much pressure with either of them since they are both a plated surface. I'd just stick with the diamonds.

Light pressure meaning don't bear into the surface. You can use a little pressure, just like you're slightly holding the edge of the knife on the stone. Let the diamonds do the work. So yea, I guess spreading butter on toast. Warm butter.

Like I said, I've had my rods for about a year. I've reprofiled more than a few knives with them (20cv, m390, m4) and they are still just fine. Don't over think it, just use them and be aware of your technique while you use them and after some practice it will be second nature.
 
RayseM said:
Yes, light pressure and you will get years of good service from the diamond rods.
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+1
And know that all diamond rods need a break-in period, so the feel will change from first uses, then settle in. Read the package instructions, as you might be able to use water as lubricant? Anyone know sieve or grit or micron of Sharpmakers diamond rod?

For beginning to learn diamond stones, light pressure is about 5 lbs. A postal scale would provide good feedback.
Most quality field grade triggers are coming in at 3 to 5/6 pounds stock (but I hear NY's finest are saddled with 15/17 lb triggers for their Dept issued Glocks... for safety reasons I'm told...?:eek:).
Or less optimally, get your spring powered bathroom scales out, and using your index finger press until 10 lbs indicated, too much. Now let off, press again and try to hit about 5 lbs. Anyone else have other common household feedback tools to suggest?
 
Sharpmaker diamond rods are 400 mesh, per Sal Glesser himself! Or 40 micron per the grand unified grit chart.
 
scottc3 said:
+1
And know that all diamond rods need a break-in period, so the feel will change from first uses, then settle in. Read the package instructions, as you might be able to use water as lubricant? Anyone know sieve or grit or micron of Sharpmakers diamond rod?

For beginning to learn diamond stones, light pressure is about 5 lbs. A postal scale would provide good feedback.
Most quality field grade triggers are coming in at 3 to 5/6 pounds stock (but I hear NY's finest are saddled with 15/17 lb triggers for their Dept issued Glocks... for safety reasons I'm told...?:eek:).
Or less optimally, get your spring powered bathroom scales out, and using your index finger press until 10 lbs indicated, too much. Now let off, press again and try to hit about 5 lbs. Anyone else have other common household feedback tools to suggest?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the trigger comparison. I can relate to that one lol. Well, it seems I haven't been using as much pressure as I thought? Idk, it's difficult to translate it to lateral pressure like that.

Got my diamond rods in last night and tried them out... I think I made a bad move by using my messed up American Lawman as my first knife on them. I used a sharpie and I definitely messed up the left side with my unintentional 30 degree fiasco a week ago... I went like 100 or so passes before giving up and moving to my 4Max Scout. (I'm using the corners of the stones btw as I saw in a YT video). Idk if the factory bevel is off or what, but even with my 4Max Scout in AUS-10A, I wasn't able to remove all the black from the sharpie after 50 or so passes per side on 40 degree setting... Either I have the worst dexterity in the world or I just need to calm down and focus on what I might be doing wrong? I'm still frustrated. I can tell the diamond rods are doing work because with the 4Max Scout there were visible particles of something building up on the blade (hope that this was the metal and not the diamonds :eek:). Maybe the 4Max is too thick of a blade to learn this with??
 
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