Some Sharpmaker Help please?

[soc_monki]

Don't use the corners on the diamond rods. Flats only. 30 degrees to do your back bevel, then if you want to do a microbevel use the 40 degree slots with the ceramics.

If you're not removing sharpie your edge isn't at 30 degrees. You have to keep going until you apex, and it will take a while especially with something as thick as the Scout.

 

[BJ987]

Don't use the corners on the diamond rods. Flats only. 30 degrees to do your back bevel, then if you want to do a microbevel use the 40 degree slots with the ceramics.

If you're not removing sharpie your edge isn't at 30 degrees. You have to keep going until you apex, and it will take a while especially with something as thick as the Scout.

Do I want to do a microbevel?? Is it necessary? I've heard only use 40 degree. I've heard do backbevel and microbevel. I'm looking for simplicity and shortest amount of time here but I also don't want to mess up the great factory edges on many of my knives.
EDIT: For example, I just got my first Code 4... Man this factory edge is just beautiful. Razor sharp and beautiful... If I want to keep it this way. What would be the best approach since I haven't touched it with any stones yet?

I already did hundreds of strokes on my Lawman with the diamond rods at 40 degrees last night. Is it too late to go to 30 degrees now?

So, what I'm gathering is, use the sharpie, do some passes on 30 and 40, whichever setting removes the most sharpie, use that?

Sorry for all the questions and know that I truly appreciate all the help.

 

[Craig James]

You’re stuck because your factory bevels don’t meet the angles laid out on the sharpmaker. This is not unusual and it takes a hell of a lot of work even with the diamond/CBN rods to get them right. You can either keep going at it or use something else. On a bench stone you can do 50 full length passes in a few minutes so don’t think you are taking a huge amount of metal off with the sharp marker

 

[jpm2]

You’re stuck because your factory bevels don’t meet the angles laid out on the sharpmaker. This is not unusual and it takes a hell of a lot of work even with the diamond/CBN rods to get them right. You can either keep going at it or use something else. On a bench stone you can do 50 full length passes in a few minutes so don’t think you are taking a huge amount of metal off with the sharp marker

This is just one of many reasons I have a coarse silicon carbide stone for. It handles the heavy work fast. Save your finer abrasives for finishing work.

 

[AntDog]

Flats only, or lose your tip. Adjust your tilt until you hit the sharpie and hold it steady at that angle. It ain’t rocket science.

You can also try just grinding on one side at the correct angle until you raise a burr, then switching to the other side. Once you get it set it’ll be easier to refine.

And for cripe’s sake, if you feel like you’re screwing up your knives or like you’re not getting anywhere, practice on a cheapo! Got a dull old kitchen knife? Time to bust it out and learn how to use the system instead of messing up your nice knives.

 

[BJ987]

You’re stuck because your factory bevels don’t meet the angles laid out on the sharpmaker. This is not unusual and it takes a hell of a lot of work even with the diamond/CBN rods to get them right. You can either keep going at it or use something else. On a bench stone you can do 50 full length passes in a few minutes so don’t think you are taking a huge amount of metal off with the sharp marker

This is something I've heard often and don't understand. Do any production knife factory bevels meet the angles on the Sharpmaker??? I mean, do even Spyderco knives fit on of those settings? Or do I have to re-profile every knife I have just to sharpen or maintain the edge?

Flats only, or lose your tip. Adjust your tilt until you hit the sharpie and hold it steady at that angle. It ain’t rocket science.

You can also try just grinding on one side at the correct angle until you raise a burr, then switching to the other side. Once you get it set it’ll be easier to refine.

And for cripe’s sake, if you feel like you’re screwing up your knives or like you’re not getting anywhere, practice on a cheapo! Got a dull old kitchen knife? Time to bust it out and learn how to use the system instead of messing up your nice knives.

I plan to practice on a cheapo, but I already messed up my American Lawman, which is why I bought the diamond rods and why I'm trying to fix it.

I was grinding on one side at the correct angle (on my American Lawman) and raised a burr. Twenty or so passes on the right side of the knife (non-messed up side) gives me a burr on the left side of the knife (the side I messed up with the brown rods last week). I fully remove the sharpie marks on the right side at the correct angle with a few passes. On the left side (messed up side), I've gone maybe 300 or so passes now and sharpie still there a centimeter at the tip and about an inch at the base--sharpie is gone from the belly.

 

[AntDog]

This is something I've heard often and don't understand. Do any production knife factory bevels meet the angles on the Sharpmaker??? I mean, do even Spyderco knives fit on of those settings? Or do I have to re-profile every knife I have just to sharpen or maintain the edge?

I plan to practice on a cheapo, but I already messed up my American Lawman, which is why I bought the diamond rods and why I'm trying to fix it.

I was grinding on one side at the correct angle (on my American Lawman) and raised a burr. Twenty or so passes on the right side of the knife (non-messed up side) gives me a burr on the left side of the knife (the side I messed up with the brown rods last week). I fully remove the sharpie marks on the right side at the correct angle with a few passes. On the left side (messed up side), I've gone maybe 300 or so passes now and sharpie still there a centimeter at the tip and about an inch at the base--sharpie is gone from the belly.

Adjust angle until you hit it. If you hold the same angle, you can’t help but eventually make an apex... the question is, how much metal do you want to remove to get there?

A simple adjustment of angle to the areas that aren’t hitting will get it done. It’s ok to concentrate on spot areas. At 300 passes on my DMTs there wouldn’t be anything left. Thing would be American Toothpick.

 

[BJ987]

Adjust angle until you hit it. If you hold the same angle, you can’t help but eventually make an apex... the question is, how much metal do you want to remove to get there?

A simple adjustment of angle to the areas that aren’t hitting will get it done. It’s ok to concentrate on spot areas. At 300 passes on my DMTs there wouldn’t be anything left. Thing would be American Toothpick.

Lol. So, if I adjust the angle.. like tilt it manually like you said.. doesn't that mean I'd have to hold that same tilt every time I sharpen that knife from now on? If that's the case I'd rather make an apex using the correct angle (as in holding it vertical) than doing the aforementioned tilting.

 

[AntDog]

Lol. So, if I adjust the angle.. like tilt it manually like you said.. doesn't that mean I'd have to hold that same tilt every time I sharpen that knife from now on? If that's the case I'd rather make an apex using the correct angle (as in holding it vertical) than doing the aforementioned tilting.

Bottom line is if you’re hitting the whole edge consistently on one side of the knife and missing bits on the other side, you’re holding it cockeyed anyway. Try doing it in a mirror looking dead on at how straight up and down the blade is... I guarantee you it ain’t. Not at 300 strokes on one side with diamond stones.

Anyhow, I’ll go ahead and leave you to it. Good luck, pal.

 

[BJ987]

Bottom line is if you’re hitting the whole edge consistently on one side of the knife and missing bits on the other side, you’re holding it cockeyed anyway. Try doing it in a mirror looking dead on at how straight up and down the blade is... I guarantee you it ain’t. Not at 300 strokes on one side with diamond stones.

Anyhow, I’ll go ahead and leave you to it. Good luck, pal.

Thanks for the help. I think maybe you missed the first part of my thread though where I explained that I did 500 or so strokes on the left side of my Lawman with the brown stones on the 30 degree angle setting before I realized that it was at 30 degrees (I had been running it at 40 degrees the night before). I immediately switched to 40 and attempted to correct. This is why the left side is so different from the other side now.

 

[Craig James]

You just need to do the opposite side until the bevels match. Counting strokes is not necessary, just eyeball it until they are even (if that’s what you want aesthetically). Post some pics of both sides of the knife please it’s hard to envisage exactly how out of kilter the edge is

 

[soc_monki]

Do I want to do a microbevel?? Is it necessary? I've heard only use 40 degree. I've heard do backbevel and microbevel. I'm looking for simplicity and shortest amount of time here but I also don't want to mess up the great factory edges on many of my knives.
EDIT: For example, I just got my first Code 4... Man this factory edge is just beautiful. Razor sharp and beautiful... If I want to keep it this way. What would be the best approach since I haven't touched it with any stones yet?

I already did hundreds of strokes on my Lawman with the diamond rods at 40 degrees last night. Is it too late to go to 30 degrees now?

So, what I'm gathering is, use the sharpie, do some passes on 30 and 40, whichever setting removes the most sharpie, use that?

Sorry for all the questions and know that I truly appreciate all the help.

Okay, here is the most basic of basic instructions.

1. Insert diamond rods in the 30 degree slots.

2. Work one side of the knife until you form a burr. Don't count strokes, and make sure you keep the knife vertical. Use sharpie if you like, it helps, and just keep going until you apex. Then change sides and apex. Then do alternating strokes to eliminate the burr.

3. If you don't want to microbevel then insert the brown rods into the 30 degree slots and get the edge finish you want. Go to the white rods if you want to. All up to you.

Alternatively, use the 40 degree slots and form a microbevel. It is not necessary but it allows you to touch up your edge faster and forms a slightly stronger edge.

 

[BJ987]

quick post for pics, tried my best:
right side (not so messed up side):

left side (messed up side):