Something different from NWA - Fire Not Included!

Joined
Dec 11, 2006
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I think most people are aware of my obsession with axes. So, when Nick started talking about this thing, I had to give it a whirl.

First, a teaser pic.

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I am not much on "specs." So, hopefully Nick can chime in and give the info on thickness, overall length and all that stuff.


I have to admit, I am a "bigger that axe the better" type. But, there is something cool about having something this small just disappear into your pack.

First, some pictures of the details, then we will get down to some business.

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To Be Continued.....
 
Let's see what this can do. If there is one thing I want an axe to do, is start a fire, under ALL conditions. That can mean getting to the center of wet wood, so that you have dry wood to work with.

So, that is the plan. One log, one axe, and one match. No cotton balls, no fatwood, and no cheating.

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In general, a round this large is plenty big enough. The outer perimeter may show a wetness ring, but the center should be dry. If you want to ensure dryness under the worst possible circumstances, the a diameter about the size of both hands put together is a good mark to shoot for. This log is a touch smaller, but not too far off.

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Larger pieces went surprisingly easy. Of course, I am using a wooden log baton through all this. But, the fire came from the one log.

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Just kept going at until I had my "kindling."

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Keep going smaller until I had all my second stage tinder.

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But, this isn't going to do it with only a single match.

So, I had to keep going smaller. I used the axe to make a whole pile of thin shavings.

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To Be Continued Again.....
 
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Of note, is the design in this area.

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I know Nick spent considerable time here making sure that multiple grips were comfortable. Such as this one.

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It is one feature that allowed me to easily make the smaller curls. It could also be useful for food prep, skinning game, or any other detailed chore, should you need to.

So, there is all together. Everything I should need for the fire. From thin shavings, up through kindling, from my one "dry" log.

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Building the tinder box.

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We look ready to go.

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Sure enough, it takes off.

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Seconds later it looks stable.

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So, I decide to "pick it up" and move it to my firepit where it is roaring good in just a couple more seconds and larger wood is added.

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I guess I don't know what else to say about this thing. I would like to hear what you guys think of this little "tool." I definitely did what I would want a small axe to do, and you can't ask for much more than that.

Also, if anyone can figure out how to help me explain to Nick that he is not getting this one back, I would appreciate it! ;) Keep in mind that Nick is A LOT bigger than me ;)

Thanks for looking,
B
 
Rockin' :thumbup: Great pics and writeup, and of course an awesome hatchet from Nick.
 
man.. that thing is cool...:eek: i love it... as with all of Nick's work it looks super comfortable, with smooth clean lines...:thumbup:
 
Nice write-up Brian. That looks like a very functional design. Good job on the one match fire too. :thumbup:

Jeff
 
Awe-man .... Nick put me down for one LOL , the usual :p...I feel like I make monthly payments to Nick.....like a used car lot.... :D LOL !
I love the utility factor of the lil' beast.....:thumbup:
I think it is 1/4" thick 01 steel...:)
 
What, are you serious? An NWA Hatchet!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:

I'll take 1 in red and black linen micarta please:cool:

That is an aweson lil axe Brian!
 
Very cool little hatchet. Now it seems you can get your choice from NWA, Breeden and JK!
 
Nice thread Brian, now just tell Nick you mistakenly shipped it off to me as a Pass around! He'll probably get an order from everyone that gets to try it too. And if he does'nt have it in his hands to play with it'll help him get more work done, so he wins with a pass around too!

How was the shock transmission/vibrations when using, vs a wood handled or Fiskars type hatchet?

Where you placed your hand for the second grip photo, I thought it would be blistering from the gimping underneath? Why is the gimping there? Could you show some alternative grips using the gimping?

How is the balance, they handle stock looks to be full, and the head is ground, is why i ask. Appears to be a full flat grind too, not a convex edge, is this so?
 
Sweet pics Brian:thumbup: You sure know how to use that camera. Thanks for the advice you gave me earlier on that.

This sure is a nice write up as well:) My Dad is the one getting this hatchet. It was suposed to be for his B-Day. But as kids normally are.... it was/is late:D

I Tracker, the serrations on the spine are for grip in one other position on the hatchet. They don't come in contact with your hand as it may seem. Also yes, it is flat ground, the edge is slightly convex. When I was making this thing, it started with a full convex profile, but I thought it looked like crap. It may have performed better as such though. If it was made from 3/8" stock a convex shape would indeed look cool. But since it is from 1/4" stock it really didn't look right. I hope that makes sense.


Great write up B, thanks man.

Nick:)
 
"Also, if anyone can figure out how to help me explain to Nick that he is not getting this one back, I would appreciate it! Keep in mind that Nick is A LOT bigger than me"

don't sweat it Brian, you have a sharp axe...
Ted
Spiral Path Defensive Arts
 
Wow, I can see that thing having a lot of uses. Like most, I haven't found my "perfect tool set" yet. This may be a great part of my next "pretty darn good tool set" as I experiment with different combos.

I like how versatile the design is and it looks like it could be used as an improvised ulu too, for food prep.

How much is this going for?

Thanks for sharing Brian.
 
Hey Tracker,

You have some excellent questions. I will try to answer them as much as I can.

How was the shock transmission/vibrations when using, vs a wood handled or Fiskars type hatchet?

Please don't ask me to comment on a Fiskars. I think most people know I how I feel about those things ;)

Wood is a great shock absorber. So, I don't think a lot can compare to that. However, the OAL is 13". So you are not generating as much power as a 19" hand axe or anything. Meaning, I did not find any shock an issue.

However, I must admit, I am probably not the best person to ask about that. At one point, I have probably owned every Scrap Yard, Swamp Rat and a fair share of Busse knives as well. Big ones too! People would always say "batoning with micarta would ring your bell" and that "res-c was much nicer for that." I didn't find either of those things to be true, and never had any issue with steel/micarta, and hitting them with wood.

Where you placed your hand for the second grip photo, I thought it would be blistering from the gimping underneath?

In the "alternate" grip I show, my palm is covering up the gimping. However, I was not chopping or doing anything with impact. I was just cutting. So, there wasn't really any relative motion between my hand and the gimping. I honestly did not even think about it, until you brought it up.

The stuff I did was not extensive, but that much prep is a bit of work. To truly answer that question, I probably need more "long term" work with it.

Why is the gimping there? Could you show some alternative grips using the gimping?

It is for another grip which I did not use, or take pictures of. I can do that real quick tomorrow. But, I am losing light FAST right now and can't get it done.

How is the balance, they handle stock looks to be full, and the head is ground, is why i ask. Appears to be a full flat grind too, not a convex edge, is this so?

The balance is pretty good. Yet again though, it is only 13" so minute changes are not as obvious to detect. I will have to "play" some more over the weekend. I have some ideas for slightly different head shape, so I think it may evolve just a bit, but it is hard to say. Performance will be the decider on that one, and I am sure it will be more up to Nick when he gets some woods time with a couple variations.

Great questions.
B
 
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