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Sweet pics Brian:thumbup: You sure know how to use that camera. Thanks for the advice you gave me earlier on that.
This sure is a nice write up as wellMy Dad is the one getting this hatchet. It was suposed to be for his B-Day. But as kids normally are.... it was/is late
I Tracker, the serrations on the spine are for grip in one other position on the hatchet. They don't come in contact with your hand as it may seem. Also yes, it is flat ground, the edge is slightly convex. When I was making this thing, it started with a full convex profile, but I thought it looked like crap. It may have performed better as such though. If it was made from 3/8" stock a convex shape would indeed look cool. But since it is from 1/4" stock it really didn't look right. I hope that makes sense.
Nick, thanks for your reply. I have to say the knifemaking guild is safe from me ever making anything from steel:foot: If you could humor me and answer a few things about the hatchet.
I notice this style/shape kind of prevelant out there in the Bushcraft community. Is there a specific advantage other than good looking to this type design?
Is the reason the shape does' nt look similiar to say a Fiskers head, is because it's made from sheet steel? I can imagine that it's intially cut out then shaped more after that. Also, with the flat, one dimensional look a flat grind comes naturally to it so the edge grind has to be something that will last awhile, no?
Is there a way to thin out the tang while leaving the head mass for the weight to be all in the head? Would this be beneficial or not, as far as using the mass to one's advantage when chopping?
Is there a limit to how much shock transfer you can build out of the handle, to make using such a design easier on the wrist?
Great write up B, thanks man.
Nick![]()
Dude - what happened to your match case? How did you BURN the case?
TF