Something I just put together

Phillip Patton

Phillip Patton

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jul 25, 2005
Messages
5,380
Awhile back I read in one of Kevin Cashens posts how he neutralizes damascus blades after etching them. First he soaks the blade in TSP, then boils it in baking soda water.
I've been using the TSP for awhile but haven't been boiling the blades because I didn't have an appropriate pot, and it's a hassle to take the blades in the house to use the stove.
Recently, my brother gave me a perfectly good stove/oven, so I decided to make a "pot" tall enough to handle most any knife blade:


tallpot-1.jpg


tallpot-2.jpg


tallpot-3.jpg


tallpot-4.jpg


It's just a tube with a bottom brazed on. This one is 3.5" diameter, but I wish I had some bigger pipe. This one tends to boil over...
 
Great idea Phillip.

Man do I like the way the Damascus pattern came out for that blade. Beautiful job! I'm curious how you stacked your pieces to get the pattern spacing in your twist.

Thanks,

Eric
 
Looks good Phillip, but I think you have a problem with your etchant. It seems to have really eaten away at the spine more than the rest of the blade :D

-d
 
efleming said:
Great idea Phillip.

Man do I like the way the Damascus pattern came out for that blade. Beautiful job! I'm curious how you stacked your pieces to get the pattern spacing in your twist.

Thanks,

Eric
Click to expand...


I started out with 4 layers of L6 and O1. The L6 was 5/8" thick and the O1 was 3/4". Forge weld, draw out to 12" long, cut in three, re-stack so that the layers are oriented the same as before, so you don't double any up.
Weld again, draw out to 16", cut in 4 pieces, stack again like before. Weld, draw out to 16". You should have 48 layers now, all the same thickness.
Cut in fourths again, this time insert a piece of O1 between each piece. I used pieces that were between 1/8" and 5/32" thick, but next time I would use thinner, probably 3/32". Weld, draw out to a 1" square, forge it round, then twist as much or as little as you want.
 
Wow phillip, can't wait to see the finished knife! Cool contraption as well!
 
A superheated water cannon. Very nice! ;)
Drop a couple marbles or pebbles in the bottom. Reduces boilover. In lab parlance, they're called "boiling chips".
 
Phillip Patton said:
I started out with 4 layers of L6 and O1. The L6 was 5/8" thick and the O1 was 3/4". Forge weld, draw out to 12" long, cut in three, re-stack so that the layers are oriented the same as before, so you don't double any up.
Weld again, draw out to 16", cut in 4 pieces, stack again like before. Weld, draw out to 16". You should have 48 layers now, all the same thickness.
Cut in fourths again, this time insert a piece of O1 between each piece. I used pieces that were between 1/8" and 5/32" thick, but next time I would use thinner, probably 3/32". Weld, draw out to a 1" square, forge it round, then twist as much or as little as you want.
Click to expand...


Great description Phillip. Thanks!
 
I got three SS stock pots for shop use at the dollar store for $20.00

That is a dramatic blade, i wanna see it finished:thumbup::thumbup:too
 
That knife is going to be unbelivable. great pot too something about stoves in the shop, I've found that mice like to make houses in out of them. and firing them up once that happens will make your whole shop smell like mouse piss. So let the cat run around the shop occasionally other wise you be the guy with the stinky shop.

Jason
 
That is awesome. I can't wait to see the finished knife.
 
Some of you wanted to see the finished knife. Well, here is the almost finished handle. :D

cf-1.jpg


cf-2.jpg


The guard is in the oven, austenitizing.
 
Philip, if you want a larger cleaning pot, check with your local welding supply where they rent and service o2 bottles and see if they have any that has been condemed. If you were closer I would give you one!
 
What is that handle material and where can I buy some (whaddaya bet he made it himself :D) ??
 
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