soooooo - whats so great about the B8?

If you think micarta and G10 are beautiful materials and don't mind carrying the excess weight of a full tang, then I can see how the Basic line wouldn't appeal to you--no worries. To me, any synthetic material is just another piece of plastic, so performance and ergonomics are the only considerations when choosing from available synthetic handle materials. I also expect and require whatever I carry on my belt or in a pack to "earn" its place by providing the greatest performance-to-weight ratio possible. Basic-line handle construction wins both those contests among Busse knives for me just about every time.

Thanks, I can def see where it has its place when it come to the tasks you mentioned.:thumbup:
 
Home now and found the videos... It was a 1/4" Basic 9 (Cliff Stamp did the review on the B7)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwcRSU0R8kE

If that doesn't convince you of the value to performance ratio of the Basic line.... Nuttin' Will!!!:D

Imagine how indestructible a .275" version of this knife would be!!!!! (a perfect BEAST companion to the svelt 1/4" B10LE and an anorexic .180" B6LE):thumbup:;)



Oh, and the recent Basic LE series have all been standard INFI, not M-INFI so they should be even better!
 
Anyone have any experience with the res-c handles in hot/humid environments? The reason I ask is a lot of plastic stuff gets sticky out here over time. I had to replace the butt pad on my rifle because it literally got sticky over time.

I've used a Basic 9 literally all day in the summer on the South Texas coast cutting all manner of brush with absolutely no stickiness--even when drenched with DEET. But here's the official description from Busse's website (esp note advantage over Kraton--a rubber handle material commonly used by many knife mfrs and gun-grip mfrs):


From “Handle Options” under “Details” on the Scrapyard Home Page @ bussecombat.com:

Resiprene C

(Think of it as an all-terrain truck tire with better chemical resistance)

Resiprene C was made famous as a handle material when it was used on the Busse Combat Basics. Respirene C handles have all the advantages of rubber handles without any of the disadvantages. They are comfortable, shock absorbing, slip resistant when wet, and provide insulation from the cold. Unlike Kraton, Resiprene C is a Non-hygroscopic material which means that it will neither "take on" or "emit" fluids. This quality not only gives them unparalleled durability but makes them extremely easy to keep clean as dirt will simply not stick to them. It is impervious to salt water, petroleum based chemicals and is much more resistant to higher and colder temps than is Kraton. Resiprene C is likewise impervious to the powerful insect repellant, DEET. It is so amazingly tough and durable that Busse stands as the only company to have ever put a Lifetime Guarantee on a rubber handle. All Scrap Yard handles are fully textured to supply a slip-resistant purchase in any grip configuration. So, whether you hold the blade in a saber grip, reverse grip, upside down grip, side grip, or whatever which way you are required to hold it for your particular application, you will be assured of having a secure hold.
 
I'm with m67 on this one, I'd love a big bad basic

It could still happen.... just not this week.;):D:D:D:D


That said, I'd like to see a 14"-16" hunk of Res-C handled INFI Beastness too (maybe with a Rugulator handle?):thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Anyone have any experience with the res-c handles in hot/humid environments? The reason I ask is a lot of plastic stuff gets sticky out here over time. I had to replace the butt pad on my rifle because it literally got sticky over time.

I have used Resiprine C, and Krayton. The krayton got sticky over time, Especially with heat. The Resiprine C did not.

But it was not jungle humid.


I for one, love ResC. It is much firmer than any other rubber style handle I have used. In hard chopping, I have had others materials like Krayton, etc get loose, twisty etc.
 
Anyone have any experience with the res-c handles in hot/humid environments? The reason I ask is a lot of plastic stuff gets sticky out here over time. I had to replace the butt pad on my rifle because it literally got sticky over time.

Wharn, was that a Limbsaver pad? If so (and you still have the pad), contact Limbsaver and they'll replace your melted pad for free (if they are still offering that deal). They had a bad batch of pads go out that would act like they were "melting" and would wreck the carpet in people's safes. They've fixed the recipe for the pads and they don't deteriorate anymore (I put a replacement pad on my 458 on 2008n and it still looks great!) Give 'em a call, they treated me well (Kinda like the Busse group........gratuitous sucking up there if ya missed it);)

Hope that helps ya out. I've tried almost all of the others (I'm sure there's probably someone's I haven't used, but I've tried the most common/popular brands), but nothing kills recoil like a Limbsaver.

All the Best,

Stump




Oh, and where were we.... Oh yeah Basic 8's... why....

Why do birds sing?
Why is water wet?
Why do we HAVE to pay taxes?

All mysteries of the Universe, but at least we can touch and hold a Basic 8 and so can our kids and their kids and their kids and.....
 
Jeez, Jerry announces a ganzaa this week and I'm talking people INTO ordering?!?!?! :eek:

What the hell was I thinking? :D

UGLY as sin, WAY too big, WAY too small--who in their right mind would own one? I'd definitely recommend sitting this one out, guys. :thumbup:
 
No offense intended, but yagottabe kiddn me!

Sounds like you're looking forward to this! I'll tell ya, I probably own 25 Busses but not a single Basic. Maybe the time has come ;-)

Is there some magic to the 8" length with this handle or is it more a question of filling in the gaps on an already fine line of knives?

John
 
Anyone have any experience with the res-c handles in hot/humid environments? The reason I ask is a lot of plastic stuff gets sticky out here over time. I had to replace the butt pad on my rifle because it literally got sticky over time.

I've had a B7 that has been breaking whatever it comes up against in south alabama for over a decade, no handle problems have ever been noticed. I'm not sure if a B8 would be any more useful... I'd love a B13 or bigger though.
 
Home now and found the videos... It was a 1/4" Basic 9 (Cliff Stamp did the review on the B7)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jwcRSU0R8kE

If that doesn't convince you of the value to performance ratio of the Basic line.... Nuttin' Will!!!

At about the 5:50 mark in Part 5 of this same Knifetests.com d-test of that Basic 9, the tip is snapped off during an extreme flex, after a series of lesser flexes.

Then, at about the 3:54 mark in Part 6, the blade breaks a couple of inches in front of the handle after having been pounded ON the side of the handle with a sledgehammer. This was also after having been hammered edge-first through concrete and angle iron without major damage to the edge--much less the blade.

My point is that the blade was taken to catastrophic failure twice--once breaking at the tip under severe multiple flexes and then again near the handle under severe multiple hammer blows directly to the handle/tang. In neither case was the reduced tang under the Res-C damaged or even noticeably bent. IMHO, anyone who thinks Busse's full-tang knives are stronger, in any meaningful real-world application, than their reduced-tang Res-C handles, should be taking a look at these results.
 
i didnt see it mentioned, but id guess people are also into this size specifically because it can fit into an easy to obtain spec ops sheath as well. i personally like the g10 and canvas for looks, but the shock absorbtion on res c should be better. i can see why people would opt for a slighly cheaper and theoretically more practical user- but i personally like a little flash with my steel. to each their own
 
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