sound deadening board or ????

Thanks guys :) I forgot to mention that the closest neighbor is actually a friend from high school---purely coincidence. When I saw him, he actually asked me if I still make knives, so I don't think it will be a problem there... but the place behind is a fancy smancy house and I'm not sure how they'll be. I've had my share of bad neighbors--- I really don't want to be one.

Matt- you are officially uninvited to my hammer-in. Or are you OFFICIALLY INVITED now???? ;) LMAO

Thanks for the advice guys :)
 
If you're worried about the power hammer, you might stop at Tractor Supply and pick up a horse stall mat (4' x 8' x 3/4" thick rubber) and set it on that to soak up vibration.
 
BTW- Thank you guys for the well wishes--- our fingers are crossed tightly!!! I'd love to have a hammer-in at the shop if we get the place. Matt Gregory will be there, lubed up and in a speed-O! He is quite articulate/well spoken and I'm sure everyone would greatly enjoy his conversation as well as his speed-O. ;) :D

It's actually going to be hard for me to figure out the tool lay-out at first, because I'm so used to having to make use of every single inch of floor/wall/ceiling space. I think it should help to make sure that even with all that space, I'll hopefully get it organized and laid out nicely. I found some paperwork that says the previous owner took out a $74,000 loan to build the shop, which doesn't surprise me at all because it's stick built (not a pole building) has wood siding and composition roof, it's own 200 amp electrical panel, and is COMPLETELY FINISHED inside (wired, insulated, sheet-rocked, painted, ceiling, full kitchen, full bathroom, two man doors and four large windows.

The only thing I would do differently would have been to build it with higher ceilings. Since it was built as a second home/spare garage, they opted for 9' ceilings and I would have gone 12' or 14' to have a lot of wall storage. The lower ceiling will make it easier to heat/cool though.

BTW- both hammers will have their own foundation--- I'll have to cut/dig a hole for each one. The 100# LG calls for something like 3' wide x 4.5' long x 3' deep concrete foundation... so it will definitely have an "isolated" pad. Sounds extreme, but the few guys I know who actually have them mounted that way (like Don Hanson) get MUCH MUCH MUCH better performance out of their hammers.

Thanks again guys :)
 
Sounds like a hell of a shop! Hope ya get it.

And great choice on the large chunk of concrete under each hammer.
 
Nick,
Back in school for our senior project in mechanical engineering, we had to design and build a sound proof chamber to test muffler designs for heavy duty pneumatic punch presses. We found a material that is best described as lead impregnated vinyl which was close to 2-3 lbs/sq.ft. and attached it to either side of a stud wall which then got sheet rock attached to either side, after the vinyl. The key to reducing the sound is MASS and air space. Air spaces are helpful, so, filling the cavity with insulation does little or nothing to help with sound proofing...possibly detrimental to the cause. In your case, staying warm in the winter is probably more important than your neighbor's ears, so not much choice regarding the insulation. For sound absorption we lined the interior walls with foam egg crate type material, with sharp, odd angles which helps stop echos, reverberations, etc...this does nothing to STOP the noise mind you, just changes its characteristics. Your best bet: probably another heavy layer of sheet rock, possibly with lead sandwiched between it and the existing.

Just trying to help a fellow M.E...:D
 
Good luck on the house/shop Nick. From My building days, the best way to deaden sound is to have two fully insulated walls with a Dead air space in between them or they can be really thick. But as stated already the low frequency vibrations from the hammers are what's going to cause you the most problems. Having isolated foundations for each of the hammers is about all you can do and they are still going to be felt if not heard. putting a 1/4 inch of cork around the hole in your floor slab and the hammer foundation will also help to keep the hammers isolated. what I meen is to cut the hole for the hammer foundation in the floor and excavate the dirt, then when you are ready to start pouring get the cork ang line the hole in the floor with it, it only has to be as wide as the floor is thick and can be tacked to your forms to hold it in place while pouring. hope this is clear
 
I'm super jealous, and not just because Nick and Matt both probably look better in a speedo than I do. (it couldn't get much worse)

Nick, your maybe-new-if-you-get-it shop is bigger than my house. You bastid! :D
 
Why does it always come back to me being naked? Then again, why wouldn't it... :barf:

Anywho, Mr. Burke is dead-on with the construction issues. None of your problems are likely to be in frequency ranges where soft, absorptive material will offer any benefit.

Here's a pretty good sales pitch from a company called Quietrock. They make sound dampening materials for commercial and residential applications. Ignore the marketing and review the parts regarding low frequency information and what it takes to alleviate it:

QuietRock Soundproofing FAQ

Hope this helps.
 
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I used the quiet rock and it did do an OK job. I reduced the noise by half and I used 2 layers on our bedroom walls. Tried to quiet the noise of the dogs barking next door (crappy neighbors I mentioned). If you were to use it I would recommend the ceiling as well. It was rather expensive, the room walls cost me right about $2000. That was for a 12x16 room double thick walls. The dead air space with a stud wall on either side would work best. I really do not think you will have much of a problem. But doing what you can will do nothing but help the situation.
 
"secure" rooms that have glass and others that need deadening (Aircraft Towers) have their glass inside and outside tilted out at the top. Sound likes to travel in a straight line and having several straight line conductive surfaces in a series helps to transmit the sound... like this is bad l l l Breaking up the straight lines is better... kinda like this is best \ l / For my next storage shed shop I intend to get the blue insulating panels in smaller sizes and use the V shaped design.
 
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