South Fork Photos and Impressions

Let us know how it works for you. :)

Well, I got use her pretty hard today. We at base had to DRMO some really old temper tents. The tent material is almost like a resin coated cotton. I had the privilege of making the tent "unserviceable". The South Fork felt like it would cut for days and didn't snag at the doubled over seams. Virtually no hot spots while using varies grips. The edge was still go to go even with the dirt and grit that was embedded in the material. My only two gripes would be the handle can get a bit slick but the shape of the handle negates any worry of your hand sliding. The other gripe is the knife rattles in the sheath like a baby toy.
 
Well, I got use her pretty hard today. We at base had to DRMO some really old temper tents. The tent material is almost like a resin coated cotton. I had the privilege of making the tent "unserviceable". The South Fork felt like it would cut for days and didn't snag at the doubled over seams. Virtually no hot spots while using varies grips. The edge was still go to go even with the dirt and grit that was embedded in the material. My only two gripes would be the handle can get a bit slick but the shape of the handle negates any worry of your hand sliding. The other gripe is the knife rattles in the sheath like a baby toy.

Sounds great. :)

G10 can get a little slippery sometimes, but with use that will likely get better over time.

Interesting about the sheath though.
 
To be honest I've been spoiled with tight fitting bolatron/kydex sheaths as all my fixed blades were customs. I may just use it as an excuse to make a new one for it :)
 
Picked up mine the other day. Ergos seem strange but I think I can get used to it with time. Handle seems large enough. Choil is a little claustrophobic but I guess the idea is to press against the G10 more than up in the choil.

The choil and the spine have sharp corners. The firesteel people will love it, but I'm going to need to take a stone and burnish them a bit cuz my thumb wants to sit there sometimes.

Handle feels great in a reverse (blade outward) grip with your thumb on the end. If things got strange this wouldn't be the worst knife to have with you.

Haven't played with it much except to shred a piece of newspaper. Came acceptably sharp, which is a lot sharper than most new knives. ;)

Sheath is nice though mine has a little rattle. Very tight going in or out. Wish it had a lip at the top front so you could pop the lock with your thumb instead of having to grab and yank.

G10 Handle seems to be well done. A little slippery at first, but it seems to be breaking in well as it accumulates a patina of dirt and grime. :D
 
Mine has a tiny bit of sheath rattle too. Used it enough this week so that it no longer shaves arm hair. I'm going to try just touching it up on the ultra fine rods on the Sharpmaker--might be all it needs to get back to the original sharpness.
 
looks like a really great knife :thumbup:...couldnt resist the urge :o...just ordered one:D
 
Well, I got use her pretty hard today. We at base had to DRMO some really old temper tents. The tent material is almost like a resin coated cotton. I had the privilege of making the tent "unserviceable". The South Fork felt like it would cut for days and didn't snag at the doubled over seams. Virtually no hot spots while using varies grips. The edge was still go to go even with the dirt and grit that was embedded in the material. My only two gripes would be the handle can get a bit slick but the shape of the handle negates any worry of your hand sliding. The other gripe is the knife rattles in the sheath like a baby toy.

Ya, I just got mine a few days ago and I have the same problem with the sheath rattle.
I hope I can fix it by putting a barrel screw near the finger choil end of the sheath..
Other then that it has perfect grinds and finish.
 
Mine has a tiny bit of sheath rattle too. Used it enough this week so that it no longer shaves arm hair. I'm going to try just touching it up on the ultra fine rods on the Sharpmaker--might be all it needs to get back to the original sharpness.
What did you do with ? Just curious.
I couldn't dull ZDP-189 when moving, and I cut a Loy of rope and twine. I'd expect this steel would hold an edge longer than ZDP.
 
What did you do with ? Just curious.
I couldn't dull ZDP-189 when moving, and I cut a Loy of rope and twine. I'd expect this steel would hold an edge longer than ZDP.

I can't answer for the OP but S90V will hold that "working edge" for a very long time! My South Fork stop shaving arm hair half way (50yards of tent material) through my little tasking but it still sliced rope and tent material with ease.
 
S90V will lose some sharpness until it gets to a certain point then it will hold that level of sharpness for a very long time before it starts to lose sharpness again.

Then it will slowly lose sharpness until it really gets dull, that takes a very long time.
 
Hmmm....love Spyderco, love S90V, don't love trailing point designs. Not sure how to go on this one. If it were a slightly dropped point I would be all over it.
 
If it were a slightly dropped point I would be all over it.

At ~2:25 and ~3:47 Phil shows a couple of his drop point versions.
[video=youtube;HubFQ91J7m0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HubFQ91J7m0&feature=related[/video]
 
What did you do with ? Just curious.
I couldn't dull ZDP-189 when moving, and I cut a Loy of rope and twine. I'd expect this steel would hold an edge longer than ZDP.

Nothing strenuous, just took it though a few days of doing all my normal cutting jobs--what I would normally use several different knives for--wanted to get a feel for how it handles and performs. Cut twine to tie up tomato vines in the garden. Harvested a bunch of vegetables, cutting through dried stems and such. Sliced them up in the kitchen. Cleaned and sliced a pound of so so fresh squid. Thin sliced some frozen boneless chicken thighs. Cut up a couple of frozen salmon filets. Made sushi-maki. Cutting frozen food is hard on the edge, I bet, as is repeated use against a hard rubber cutting board. It never stopped cutting well, but did lose that razor edge. Got it back with about 60 swipes on the UF Sharpmaker rods.
 
Been using the South Fork for a week on most every cutting task. This knife works excellent on food and has the blade length for a bit more leverage cutting tougher materials too. The sheath is a let down on some high dollar productions but the South Fork fold-over Boltaron is actually quite useable with some slight modifications thanks to the G-clip. To be honest, I thought the blade might be a bit thinner but after using the knife for a week, I wouldn't change it to make thinner. Overall, this blade has impressed and despite the +/-$250 price tag I have sharpened it (took 3 times as long as AUS-8A) and look forward to using it more, especially in the kitchen. Thanks to Phil and Sal for making this available. Thanks also goes to Ankerson for his tireless sharpening and cutting routines evaluating the excellent configuration of this blade as well as many others.
 
Been using the South Fork for a week on most every cutting task. This knife works excellent on food and has the blade length for a bit more leverage cutting tougher materials too. The sheath is a let down on some high dollar productions but the South Fork fold-over Boltaron is actually quite useable with some slight modifications thanks to the G-clip. To be honest, I thought the blade might be a bit thinner but after using the knife for a week, I wouldn't change it to make thinner. Overall, this blade has impressed and despite the +/-$250 price tag I have sharpened it (took 3 times as long as AUS-8A) and look forward to using it more, especially in the kitchen. Thanks to Phil and Sal for making this available. Thanks also goes to Ankerson for his tireless sharpening and cutting routines evaluating the excellent configuration of this blade as well as many others.


Awesome. :)

Glad you like it, yeah they really got that S90V right dead spot on so it will take some time to sharpen it, but the payoff is great. :thumbup:
 
I've been keeping mine very sharp by touching it up regularly with the Sharpmaker UF rods. 100-200 strokes is all it takes to bring it back, if you don't let it go too far.
 
Did Phil ever come out and say what uses this knife was designed for?


Yes...

Questions have come up on the intended use of the South Fork and here are some thoughts on that. This is not intended to start a discussion on favorite blade shapes or blade lengths or steel selection for specific tasks. Just some background on the knife. The edge thickness at the root of the sharpening bevel is about 0.020 and the Rockwell C hardness is right 60 on the 2 that I have checked.

The south Fork has evolved over about 20 years of my own use and from feedback from those who have used my custom knives. It is named after a mountain and valley area in Utah where I have hunted for Mule Deer and Elk. I guess you could call it a general purpose Sportsman, Working/ Utility knife. The edge sweep and trailing point make for an easy cutting geometry. The sharp point comes in handy for fine work like caping or removing a splinter or cactus spine. The belly sweep and slightly dropped handle position the blade in the hand for skinning big game. Some prefer a drop point or semi skinner for field dressing and skinning chores, but the trailing point has worked very well for me as well. Some will also prefer a shorter blade but again my preference is for a little more reach for boning out an elk quarter or removing the back strap. Some blade shapes are more efficient for specific field tasks but it is my humble opinion that the trailing point can cover a wide range of tasks easily. As this knife gets out in the hands of Sportsmen I think this will be proven out.
CPM S90V is a stainless steel so corrosion around salt water is not a problem given reasonable care. It can be used for rigging, rope cutting and general over all boat use. I have also used it for gill cutting on Tuna and Salmon to produce sushi quality fish.
It is not a true fillet knife but I have used it successfully to fillet salmon, halibut and tuna for example. Just cut down the lateral line to the center bone and fillet both directions to remove the top and bottom loins. Cut across the fillet for some ideal size steaks for the BBQ. It can double as a Camp, Canoeing and Back Packing knife. The thin geometry lends it to cutting and peeling vegetables and preparing meat cuts for the grill. I recently used it to bone out some pheasant breasts for a pot pie. It makes a great steak knife. Can it be used for self-defense? I believe so but will leave that to the experts in that area.
There are many other uses not described here but it is also worth noting what it is not intended to do. This knife is optimized for slicing and fine work. The thin grind, higher Rockwell hardness and high carbide metallurgy does not suit it for heavy duty Bush Craft type work. It is not intended for prying around hard objects like bone or for chopping. An ax and pry bar or heavy duty Bushcraft knife are the tools to use here.
The handle design has evolved so that the knife can be used in multiple positions. Blade edge up or down, choked up to the finger notch or positioned with the rounded butt in the palm of the hand. All corners are rounded so there are no hot spots to raise a blister during prolonged use. The handle material is G10, which is fiberglass cloth laminated with resin. It is very dense and will not absorb odors or liquids. The density makes it very durable and adds just enough weight so that it balances with a bias to the hand for good balance. The deep finger guard minimizes slipping during wet use. The handle slabs are bonded with epoxy for a liquid tight seal.
The blade steel is CPM S90V. The CPM (Crucible Particle Metallurgy) process allows for a very high percentage of very hard carbides (Vanadium Carbides) to be incorporated into this grade of steel. These particles enhance the wear resistance thereby optimizing the blade for long edge holding even when cutting very abrasive materials. (A detailed description of CPM S90V can be seen by viewing the data sheet at the Crucible Specialty Materials web site). Like all things in life there are compromises. Additional alloy and increased hardness do tend to offset ductility. As with all high alloy steels in this category some caution should be used to prevent edge chipping. I have used this grade in my custom knives since the early 90’s. I believe I was one of the first to try it. It was developed as a specialty grade for the plastics extrusion industry. Molten plastic is very abrasive and corrosive so the criteria were to develop a grade to withstand these challenges. High abrasive wear and corrosion resistance qualities sound like the ideal steel to make a knife blade with. The problem is the qualities that make it such wear resistant steel also make it a challenge to grind and finish. With some much appreciated help from metallurgists at Crucible Materials and a pretty long learning curve I was able to successfully make knife blades out of it. All high alloy knife blade steels require specialized heat treating. They require high temperatures, very precise control and rapid quench to get the maximum potential qualities. For these reasons CPM S90V has seen pretty limited use in the custom knife arena and almost no use in Production knives. Spyderco however has perfected the heat treat and grinding and finish processes for CPM S90V and is the only manufacturer so far that is using it for knife blades. I was very happy they made that choice for this collaboration since it will provide excellent performance over a wide range of uses.
One could ask with such high wear resistance on the South Fork blade, doesn’t that make for very difficult sharpening? The answer is that it could-- and this is again another compromise in life. With this knife however the blade grind is relatively thin and that means very little material is needed to be removed to re-sharpen. The other positive aspect is that there are sharpening Medias available that will cleanly cut this very high carbide and high hardness steel. I recommend Silicon Carbide bench stones to restore the edge and then a ceramic or diamond stone as produced and offered by Spyderco to remove the edge burr. It does take practice to sharpen a blade like this by hand and eye and again the good news is that there are mechanical aids that make the task easy and quick.
The sheath provided with the South Fork is Bolatron ™ which is a thermo plastic that can be molded to the exact shape of the knife. Leather is the traditional sheath material and many still prefer that material but in the case of a working knife, Bolatron™ makes a lot of practical sense. I have gone to this material in my custom knives for the same reason. It is hard and prevents the blade from coming through the side of the sheath if inserted incorrectly. It also can be cleaned with soap and water if one day the knife is inserted in the sheath without cleaning after some game or fish processing. This material also does not absorb water as leather can. A knife put away in a wet sheath could be a sad story when it is discovered sometime later.
In summary I would say that the South Fork is a unique combination of high tech steel at a higher hardness and a thinner edge for easy cutting .The lines of the knife are pleasing and the overall refined design make for versatility. It should serve a wide variety of users and introduce a knife with some custom qualities that do not currently exist in a production knife.

Phil Wilson
 
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