Spartan Harsey Plague Doctor - Thoughts please

Peregrin Peregrin : I know I'm not the only one looking forward to your impressions, Gary... 🤔

-Brett
Thanks for the nudge, Brett.
My SHF arrived on 10/27, four days ago. So, this is more like an initial thoughts post.
First, I love the knife, especially the engraving and the subject. Having recently had my own covid experience, it's something that will remind me what it's been like, as an older man living through this pandemic, and watching my family live through it.

On to some details:
The color on mine seems to be more bronze then blue. Different then I was expecting, but I like it. The engraving is crisp, well executed and I'm totally happy with it. All in all, very well done!

The 3.25 is just the right size for me as an edc. It fits my hand well and I like the look of the knife.

I don't have a problem with the jimping. Mine seems to be well finished and I'm not feeling any sharp edges on the knife frame. The jimping on the blade spine is a bit rough, with some sharper edges. I haven't had the chance to put the knife to any real work so my impression might change.

Opening is smooth and easy. I can't flick it open yet, but it's not something I'm worried about.
Edited to add; it just flicked open for me. Cool.

Lock up is great, although I am getting some lock stick. Hopefully that lessens with use. The lockbar to tang is at about 50% now. I do think I would have liked a little better access to the lock release. Maybe that will be better when the lockbar smooths out.

One thing that surprised me. I noticed the blade getting wobbly when closed. Yesterday it was pronounced and I found the pivot was loose. I tightened it with my fingers and that is where it sits right now. I've been looking at getting a torx bit set, so I ordered one. Hopefully I can resolve that issue with some Blue locktite. It did surprise me though. I've got a number of screw pivot knives and have never had that happen. Also, I see that the pivot is not locked, but free floating, so I made sure I ordered an extra T-15.

Now, the blade. My first S45VN so I'll have to form an opinion as time goes on. I'm sure it will serve me well, as I'm not a hard user. The blade was sharp. Not as sharp as I like, but a few minutes on a charged hone got it to where I'm happy for now. I do think a sharpening choil would be a good idea. I doubt I'll bother having one added though. The blade is pretty thick behind the edge. I didn't figure it would be a super slicer, so that works for me.

That's about all I have for now. Thanks for all the comments, pictures and the lively discussion everyone!
As we say, pics or it didn't happen!
She's a looker for sure!
YOxR38f.jpg
 
Very nice on the blue/bronze Plaque Doctor! Those are some of the best engravings IMO. Don't worry, I'm sure a dab of loctite will fix the pivot screw loosening issue. It seems like every about 1 out of 10 folders or so that I've bought throughout the years have had self loosening pivots. Even my Sebenza 21 will back it's way all the way out over some time if I don't loctite it. Very nice!
 
Very nice on the blue/bronze Plaque Doctor! Those are some of the best engravings IMO. Don't worry, I'm sure a dab of loctite will fix the pivot screw loosening issue. It seems like every about 1 out of 10 folders or so that I've bought throughout the years have had self loosening pivots. Even my Sebenza 21 will back it's way all the way out over some time if I don't loctite it. Very nice!
I love my blue plague doctor, beautiful knife!
 
One thing that surprised me. I noticed the blade getting wobbly when closed. Yesterday it was pronounced and I found the pivot was loose. I tightened it with my fingers and that is where it sits right now. I've been looking at getting a torx bit set, so I ordered one. Hopefully I can resolve that issue with some Blue locktite.
Bringing this one back up to follow up on the above.
I got some torx bits and assorted other bits, along with an extra handle and a Blue Loctite stick. The pivot screw came right out and did not appear to have any thread locker on it. Not sure if that's normal or not. Easy to correct if you have the tools. I've let the loctite set for about 12 hours now, but I'm avoiding using it until tonight. Not sure if the 24 hours is really needed for this kind of application or not. Better to be safe than sorry I guess.
I got it centered pretty good. The lock up is good, and I'm not getting the lock stick I was.
I'm very happy with the SHF, even with the dinking around I had to do. We'll see how it goes.
A few pics.
0TKSN1r.jpg

vLfyf9h.jpg
 
When I had my PJ apart, I greased it with TW25, butter smooth now!
 
I might need to get me one of those blue loctite sticks. I usually accidentally cut just a tiny bit too much off the applicator when I open it and it becomes a pain in the butt to just get a little bit on the screw. It's always ended up working fine for me throughout the years, but that thing looks handy. Too bad there's not a "loctite stick" type product that fully cures in like 1 hour.
 
I might need to get me one of those blue loctite sticks. I usually accidentally cut just a tiny bit too much off the applicator when I open it and it becomes a pain in the butt to just get a little bit on the screw. It's always ended up working fine for me throughout the years, but that thing looks handy. Too bad there's not a "loctite stick" type product that fully cures in like 1 hour.
The stick works great! It would be nice if the curing time was shorter.
 
sharing some of my experience. I had two full size SHF. Still have one that I thinned the edge by a lot, to the point that it will not baton my apples. It still is a poor slicer. Build quality, lock up and action are all superb, it just does not cut. In this price range, crks have a much better edge for slicing.
 
Blue Loctite stick.
I've let the loctite set for about 12 hours now, but I'm avoiding using it until tonight. Not sure if the 24 hours is really needed for this kind of application or not. Better to be safe than sorry I guess.
"Blue threadlocker stick" TDS (Technical Data Sheet)

Looks like that on stainless steel 24 hours will give you about 95% of full strength. But even 4 hours would have been sufficient for working strength.
(Funky time scale on their chart.)

1699255389295.png

Threadlockers are funny critters. Both the cure rate and the final strength vary depending on the composition of the surfaces they are bonding. On the vertical axis, "steel" means "non-stainless steel". On stainless steel you end up with about 60% of the strength obtainable on alloy steel.
 
"Blue threadlocker stick" TDS (Technical Data Sheet)

Looks like that on stainless steel 24 hours will give you about 95% of full strength. But even 4 hours would have been sufficient for working strength.
(Funky time scale on their chart.)

View attachment 2381088

Threadlockers are funny critters. Both the cure rate and the final strength vary depending on the composition of the surfaces they are bonding. On the vertical axis, "steel" means "non-stainless steel". On stainless steel you end up with about 60% of the strength obtainable on alloy steel.
Thanks for the info, Frank! Since I typically do this fiddly kind of stuff at night, I figure overnight gives it more then enough time to cure. If it does loosen it's easy enough to correct. So far it's doing what it's supposed to do. With no thread locker on it the pivot was loosening appreciably in short order.
 
My green PD arrived today. This thread helped me to finally track one down and part with my hard earned. So thank y'all, I now have yet another knife I really don't need.
It is mighty pretty though! :)
Glad to help! 😂 :cool:
Post a pic or two! I had my eye on the green also, but flipped a coin and the bronze/blue won.
 
Glad to help! 😂 :cool:
Post a pic or two! I had my eye on the green also, but flipped a coin and the bronze/blue won.
I went with a green plague doctor (3.25")...and immediately knew I couldn't bring myself to pocket it. I waited a few weeks and bought a blue one. That arrived today and went right in my pocket. The blue is a lot stiffer, both in opening and lock release. The lockbar stiffness really highlighted the narrow thumb purchase. On other knives, my solution was to take a little off the show side scale to improve access...but that would stand out like a sore thumb on the blue anodization. Guess I'll play wait and see.
Knowing better than to not post a picture, here's one I posted in another thread, taken during daylight.
View attachment 2407731
 
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I went with a green plague doctor (3.25")...and immediately knew I couldn't bring myself to pocket it. I waited a few weeks and bought a blue one. That arrived today and went right in my pocket. The blue is a lot stiffer, both in opening and lock release. The lockbar stiffness really highlighted the narrow thumb purchase. On other knives, my solution was to take a little off the show side scale to improve access...but that would stand out like a sore thumb on the blue anodization. Guess I'll play wait and see.
All of my SHFs have benefited from a breakdown and cleaning of the pivot and washers and then relube with TW25.
 
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