Spent the afternoon cutting Oak

I would say after stacking it,'not split' this gave me 1/4 cord. Maybe a little more. Taking an ax to it and doing the limb work before cutting up
the logs saved me gasoline and chain saw time. Which is an expensive unit to run. Thus, I see saving in my work because of ax use and exercise. I'm hoping by Sept. this will cured enough to split well and then I'll haul it to the barn. I hope some of you other ax men are out
getting a load of wood, making use of the isolation time. DM
 
David Martin said:
This is a 16" Emory oak, you can see the signs of drought on it. Even with this it cut 50% harder than live oak. Which is like a white oak.
Now, I'll go to the limb work using my Hults. DM
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It looks like unforgiving land for plants. Any idea how old is this particular oak?
I assume you had to water you pecan trees. How deep is your water well?
 
I use a N-95 when I cut wood because there is a dust that comes off the wood and settles in my throat and I have to hark this out afterward.
But use caution because using this mask causes oxygen depletion and after 20-30 mins. I have to put my saw down and remove the mask to
get a good breath of air. I have nearly passed out from using it. These masks are not made to be worn during exerting exercise. DM
 
I’m with on that. I wear an N95 alot for carpentry or metal work. They’re fine at rest.

I try to cut from the upwind side. I don’t like breathing oily sawdust. But when I don’t have s choice I wear my mask.
 
This morning I was splitting some oak 10" logs that I had cut in January. There has not been much rain on this wood and it didn't split well.
Requiring 10-11 chops for each log to get them in half. I was using my 4# Hults. I guess it needs more curing.? DM
 
You mention about your handles only lasting a year. I'm wondering if they would last longer if you dried them first in your environment and preferably by the wood stove or a dehumidifier. If they are shrunk below the normal moisture level, snug fit, gorilla glued (expandable glue); they should get tighter after installation as they increase their moisture content. Hockey stick tape on the handle goes a long way saving abrasions as well.
Anyway these practices work well for me.
 
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thunderstick, I have a couple of axes that need handles. Ha, a yearly thing. I have Gorilla glue on hand and will try your suggested method
and give some feed back. The hafts were purchased over a month ago. Since, I'm not heating our home now, I can set them out in direct
sun for a week or 2 then hang them. I'll look for the hockey stick tape. Thanks and more on this later. DM
 
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David Martin said:
thunderstick, I have a couple of axes that need handles. Ha, a yearly thing. I have Gorilla glue on hand and will try your suggested method
and give some feed back. The hafts were purchased over a month ago. Since, I'm not heating our home now, I can set them out in direct
sun for a for a week or 2 then hang them. I'll look for the hockey stick tape. Thanks and more on this later. DM
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Could you post some pics of the damage to current hafts? If Emory Oak just chews your hickory handles than you might benefit from metal collar(use smallest screw possible to hold it in place so it won't be a starting point for a crack).
 
I am in agreement about trying to minimize the moisture content as far as possible before hanging. At least in the tongue.
I have every intention of making a sort of drying box that I can control the humidity in that's large enough to fit 3 or 4 tongues in at a time. I just haven't gotten around to doing it. But I also put them in front of an electric heater, near the wood stove or sitting on a forced hot air vent. I've had very good results using all three.
All that said I don't think it's your issue is it? Your issue is breaking axe helves, not loosening ones correct?
One of the questions I'd love answered is; How long did an axe helve last the average wood cutter back in 1900 say?
A month? 2,4,6 months?
I personally don't think they lasted much longer than a few months. I mean being smashed into a tree a thousand times every damn day? Maybe I'm wrong about that by that could be your problem David. Have you ever tried a very thin haft? One that flexes a lot?
I recently became acquainted with a gentleman that's been a forester for the majority of his career (about 45 years).
By unfortunately he doesn't know the answer. I was hoping he would.
 
David Martin said:
Here is my Wards Master Quality ax. DM
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Looking at the damages to your handles I do not think adding hockey tape or aluminum collar would make any difference. You are dealing with pesky kind of wood with very strong interconnecting fibers that causes your axe being stuck often. Your Hult haft's damage looks like you applied side way force (might be wrong, it is just one pic) trying to free your axe. When it comes to Wards Master axe I strongly believe you will benefit from watching SkillCult's old video.
Edit
Just took second look at WMQ haft and I can see that you will benefit from hockey tape in the long run. However, any wrap by itself would not prevent that kind of breakage.
 
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