- Joined
- Oct 23, 2010
- Messages
- 3,196
I'll take #108. Thanks for the chance.
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+1Probably. He'd probably be right, too. And so it goes.
Agreed, I do the same thing. If it folds I treat it like a slip joint. :thumbup:To the OP - as you can see this issue has been - well lets say - "vigorously debated".
My opinion - I treat any knife that "folds" like a slipjoint - whether it has a lock or not. Therefore - I think the spine whack test reveals nothing for me.
If I need to go "grape ape" with a knife I defer to my fixed blades.
A folding knife is a mechanical device that can fail, period. Some are stronger than others - but at the end of the day they can all fail.
A knife can be replaced - the full use of my hand or fingers after they are severely cut cannot.
Yep.No, I don't absolutely think the spine whack test is the be all end all. However, any decent lock should be able to take it.
IBTL
I whack. Usually I whack at home. I have whacked outdoors before though.
A thread about the spine-whack test has now turned into a debate over the Tri-Ad lock. If that ends up turning into a fight about the merits of Cold Steel's marketing, we might end up with a new record for most dead horses beaten in a single thread.![]()
But what knife steel is the best for an under $30 folder for a scout that can be spine whacked? Is it ok if it's made in China?
This one post makes this whole mess of a thread worthwhile. :thumbup:I whack. Usually I whack at home. I have whacked outdoors before though.
Is it really that god damn difficult?
Do you believe the "spine whack test" is a legitimate indicator of lock integrity? If your knife fails this test, do you feel it merits a warranty return?
But you should still spine whack your Randalls to make sure they're safe to use.
Then you go on the forums to complain.![]()