Splitting blocks

josh81

josh81

Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
435
I've come to the realization lately that I need a better way to rip blocks into scales. As of now I use a table saw. Most blocks I buy I think I could get two sets of scales out of with a bandsaw. I'm starting to buy more expensive wood and I really feel like I'm throwing money away.

I have an old 12" craftsman bandsaw I inherited from my grandpa but I can't for the life of me get it to cut descent scales. I've tried tuning it and I've tried different blades. Is there a decent saw out there for doing this? Maybe one of the smaller bench to models? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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We use a 14" Grizzly with a good 6 TPI band. Can easily get 2 sets of scales from most standard size blocks.
 
I use a band saw. You're probably losing a lot of material from the kerf on your table saw blade.
Getting them cut nice and flat is where I'm having issues.
Subscribing to see what others are doing.
 
I have the same trouble. I think it is more my fault than the bandsaw's. I have resorted to using a coping saw and have had good results.
 
Use a low TPI for wood. And a miter gauge or fence helps. What problem are you having exactly?

If you really need a new bandsaw you can get a portaband and fab up a stand for it to make it vertical. Swag Offroad makes one you can look at to model.
 
Sawing scales is always a stressful procedure. I use a 14 inch delta platinum. with a 3 TPI blade. You need low enough tooth count to empty the swarf. What I do is square up the fence and do several trial cuts. What I do is keeping the block pressed to the fence, tip it forward so the blade just nicks one of the edges, I then use digital calipers to check that both sides are even. If not, i readjust the fence and try again.

Once I have the block centered, I SLOWLY feed it through the blade while keeping ample pressure pushing the blade into the fence. Make sure your guides are as close as possible to the block to prevent the blade wandering. Also make sure your thrust bearing is positioned correctly. It should be VERY close to the back of the blade, but not touching. As soon as you begin to cut however, it should engage and stay in contact with the back of the blade.
 
Try a Japanese style thin kerf hand rip saw. If you only need to split an occasional block it might be all you need. It will be faster than the coping saw.

But you can probably get the 12" bandsaw working better, it's just a question of how much time you are willing to spend fixing tools versus making knives. A sharp blade and new tires will fix a lot of problems.

You mentioned tuning the saw, What have you tried so far? Do you already have the "Bandsaw Handbook" by Duginske? Before we tuned the 20" bandsaw in the shop this summer, I bought all the various bandsaw "tuning" books out there. While there are a few different tuning methods and philosophies, for the money (basically 1 cent more than shipping for a used copy online) and content, Duginske's first book is the one to buy.

As great as putting the portaband on a stand is for cutting metal, I would not recommend the portaband for cutting wood. The blades available for the portaband have too many teeth per inch for thick wood. Sawdust will clog the gullets and the blade will burn the wood in the cut. I suppose you could get a 3, 4, or 6 TPI blade welded up to the right length for the portaband...if you do, let us know how it works out.
 
I keep a 6 TPI on the saw for general cutting of wood and ivory, but a 3 TPI is better for ripping wood blocks.
 
My problem is getting a straight cut. The blade seems to wander where it wants to. I've tried building a fence also. I guess my biggest question is whether or not one of the smaller, cheaper, bench to ones would do the job. My old one does ok for cutting out shapes in small stock. Just wondering if I bought a newer saw if I'd have the same problem. Thanks for all the replies.

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Add more tension. Modern bandsaw blades can take a lot of tension and it's fine for the saw as long you detention wh3m not in use.
 
Tension, and keep the guides close to the work, and a sharp, low tooth count blade with a fence on the table. All have been mentioned, and if you don't have each of those details correct, the cut will suffer.

I had a 12" Craftsman bandsaw years ago. It was a POS. They are very common- not a very stiff frame so it will begin to flex if you crank the blade real tight. Still, they can be made to cut straight.
 
Salem Straub said:
Tension, and keep the guides close to the work, and a sharp, low tooth count blade with a fence on the table. All have been mentioned, and if you don't have each of those details correct, the cut will suffer.

I had a 12" Craftsman bandsaw years ago. It was a POS. They are very common- not a very stiff frame so it will begin to flex if you crank the blade real tight. Still, they can be made to cut straight.
Click to expand...
Ya it is a pos for sure. I might see if I can pick up a new 9" sometime soon. Until then I'll go back to the drawing board with this one. Thanks for all the replies.

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I found that using a 3/8" blade helps keep it from wandering as much also. I use a fence, a 3/8" blade with good tension and am getting good flat scales. I have been using a higher tooth count for stabilized and really hard wood though. It seems to work really well. Can I cut Micarta blocks on a wood band saw or should I use my vertical portaband for that material?
 
PaMtnBkr said:
I found that using a 3/8" blade helps keep it from wandering as much also. I use a fence, a 3/8" blade with good tension and am getting good flat scales. I have been using a higher tooth count for stabilized and really hard wood though. It seems to work really well. Can I cut Micarta blocks on a wood band saw or should I use my vertical portaband for that material?
Click to expand...
Cut micarta on the wood band saw.
 
I've got a Milwaukee that is pure POS for cutting blocks. I would up getting this saw blade for the table saw:

https://goo.gl/BQbbM2

the kerf is .059" and makes a nice smooth cut. I've used it for all types of wood and even mammoth ivory blocks.

Ken H>
 
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