Splitting thick material into two for scales.

I found a good stiff Japanese hand rip cut saw does the job. Section pieces on chop saw then split in half as I need. The planed “outside” face adheres to tang. “Inside” hand cut faces are shaped/molded to desired handle thickness etc. Want a band saw, but need/want 2x72 belt grinder first since currently using 2x42
 
Another trick for resawing a block into scales is to glue the block to a flat board (1X4). Then you can run the board and block through a table saw or clamp in a vise and saw by hand. A Japanese pull saw is a joy to use.
 
Being retired from the construction trade I can't imagine anyone not owning one of these tools. Handy as a pocket on a tee shirt. However I can't fathom you being able to cut handles scales to width wise with it accurately. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what your using this for. God bless you have found a way to do so. But I don't think many people will be able to use this tool instead of a well tuned band saw or table saw with a small curf fine blade to cut handle scales width wise from a block of wood.
 
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butcher_block said:
im amazed you can get a nice straight cut with it btw
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It is really easy to cut it straight all the way through.

Today I cut in half 2 scales from brown canvas micarta piece that was 5/16" thick 2" wide and 5" long.
I mark it, in half, all the way around . Line up the blade to the line and keep parallel to the top surface and make a plunge cut and that sets up the rest of the cuts to be parallel and makes the cut all the way through.

This was the easiest it has ever been in spitting a 5/16" thick in half.
 
LCoop said:
Being retired from the construction trade I can't imagine anyone not owning one of these tools. Handy as a pocket on a tee shirt. However I can't fathom you being able to cut handles scales to width wise with it accurately. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what your using this for. God bless you have found a way to do so. But I don't think many people will be able to use this tool instead of a well tuned band saw or table saw with a small curf fine blade to cut handle scales width wise from a block of wood.
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I do not have a wood cutting bandsaw, only a metal cutting and it does not work well for this.
 
Easy Peasy

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I really like this idea. Seems like it would be pretty easy to make a jig to hold the tool parallel and stand the blade the desired distance above your flat surface and just push the material through. Shit tons safer than a table saw, and the blade being so thin as to not remove much material is a cool feature. Think I'll start looking around for one!
 
Lorien said:
I really like this idea. Seems like it would be pretty easy to make a jig to hold the tool parallel and stand the blade the desired distance above your flat surface and just push the material through. Shit tons safer than a table saw, and the blade being so thin as to not remove much material is a cool feature. Think I'll start looking around for one!
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There are thread holes for a depth guide they sell. It would be easy to make a piece to set the thickness.
I plan to make one but it really is easy to do it without as well.

There are all kinds of blades that go from low price to very high price. If you end up getting one let me know and I will show you the blades I got on Amazon for a $1/ea and work great and are high quality bi metal
 
haha, awesome- I was just looking around on amazon at these things just now. I'm seeing corded ones $60-$80 CDN, and like that idea since I'd probably just build it into a dedicated set up just for ripping material
 
AVigil said:
I do not have a wood cutting bandsaw, only a metal cutting and it does not work well for this.
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What blades have you tried in the metal saw? (Tooth count, blade width, blade thickness)
 
Pinoy Knife said:
guys
a well dialed in bandsaw can easily cut into paper thin pieces (and straight)
the biggest issue is getting it setup correctly....not too little tension,,,blade guides set correctly etc
if you try cutting both the top/bottom separately first ... say by a hand saw
then getting both to come together becomes much easier...
sometimes i do this when getting the wood saw table cleared off is a pain.......looking forward to a bigger shop in some months
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Exactly. If your bandsaw won’t cut straight, it’s either not adjusted correctly OR your blade is dull. If I ever notice the cut “wandering “ 99% of the time my blade has dulled. Put on a new blade and life’s great again.
 
AVigil said:
I do not have a wood cutting bandsaw, only a metal cutting and it does not work well for this.
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Well that could present a challenge if you’re cutting wood. I see why you were having problems now. Wore out a nice Craftsman this past year and replaced it with a Grizzly. Very happy with that bandsaw.
 
godogs57 said:
Exactly. If your bandsaw won’t cut straight, it’s either not adjusted correctly OR your blade is dull. If I ever notice the cut “wandering “ 99% of the time my blade has dulled. Put on a new blade and life’s great again.
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I have a Milwaukee Porta bandsaw mounted in a nice stand that I made with a small attachment table that I made. It's all very nice.

But the narrow blades aren't great for cutting straight.
I do use it for this, but it sucks.

Yes, I could also use my table saw, but it would waste more material, it's noisy, dustier, and not as fun working uneven, wobbly woods/micarta.

I'm willing to try this new idea.
Or I was going to handsaw.
Or try a wet file saw for micarta.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I have a Milwaukee Porta bandsaw mounted in a nice stand that I made with a small attachment table that I made. It's all very nice.

But the narrow blades aren't great for cutting straight.
I do use it for this, but it sucks.

Yes, I could also use my table saw, but it would waste more material, it's noisy, dustier, and not as fun working uneven, wobbly woods/micarta.

I'm willing to try this new idea.
Or I was going to handsaw.
Or try a wet file saw for micarta.
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Just curious - could you cut your material a little thicker than you need and then face it off on a mill?
 
Retired Spook said:
Just curious - could you cut your material a little thicker than you need and then face it off on a mill?
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I did exactly that when I cut a block of stabilized maple I was generously given by weo weo

I rough cut the block down the middle, and used a flycutter on a Bridgeport at work to flatten each scale.



*I'm now on a list at work...... So I need to look for other ways to do things.

*I donated That knife (Sale) to my local human society, 100%.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
I did exactly that when I cut a block of stabilized maple I was generously given by weo weo

I rough cut the block down the middle, and used a flycutter on a Bridgeport at work to flatten each scale.



*I'm now on a list at work...... So I need to look for other ways to do things.

*I donated That knife (Sale) to my local human society, 100%.
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Great looking knife!
 
Here in the UK, absolute cheapest £70, blades about £9 each. I dread to think how long (short a time) one of the blades will last on Micarta or even a hard tropical wood. Most blades are toothed for soft construction type lumber.
 
C_Claycomb said:
Here in the UK, absolute cheapest £70, blades about £9 each. I dread to think how long (short a time) one of the blades will last on Micarta or even a hard tropical wood. Most blades are toothed for soft construction type lumber.
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I got some quality bi metal blades from Amazon 10 for $12 These blades are made for cutting metal and wood. I split some Ebony and micarta and there is no damage to the blade at all.
 

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