Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker review

TOB9595

TOB9595

Joined
Jan 3, 2003
Messages
2,773
Well after seeing scads of posts on the best sharpening systems out there I started a passaround of the 204.
Spyderco's Sal Glesser, BLESS THE MAN, Answered the call and supplied me a new one to do this.
Thanks Sal.
If you don't know the details here's a LINK

I've had a sharpmaker for many years. It was the one in the cordura sheath.

The new ones come with an integral cover that extends the length of the base. This is a nice and useful touch.
The new cover is much better than the old cordura. It locks the pieces in so much better.

A very informative book and video (starring Sal) is included. These items really are a help no matter how well you think you know how to use it.

I sharpened a variety of steels, length blades, folder and fixed. The 204 made quick tiome out of all the serrated blades I threw at it. I had a badly dinged endura, circa early 1980's, and it came out razor sharp.

Even with the book and video I cannot keep the flat of a pe on the flats of the rods.
Maybe it's cause I'm old and old habits and paradigms are tough to change but I feel better not using the flats.
Even with pe I use the edge or corners of the rods (stones).

What am I doing wrong?
Do others share my angst of the flats?

The pe's sharpened up nicely using the corners of the stones. :)
So there!!

To clean the stones I just use some powdered cleanser and lightly swab it.

Of course I failed to take pics of the Spyderco 204....DOH!!!

Tom
 
Originally posted by TOB9595
Even with the book and video I cannot keep the flat of a pe on the flats of the rods.
Maybe it's cause I'm old and old habits and paradigms are tough to change but I feel better not using the flats.
Even with pe I use the edge or corners of the rods (stones).

What am I doing wrong?
Click to expand...

:)

It takes a bit of practice to get used to -- muscle memory has to burn in.

:)

Try altering the "angle of attack" of your BODY behind the blade/knife/arm, and also altering height of the setup respective to your sitting/standing posture.

I've found both of these to help.

:)

Allen
aka DumboRAT
 
No matter what anybody tries to tell you Tom, you are "normal". We are all just a little bit diverse in our approach to our rods. Even strokes that are not fully flat against the rod are still effective and satisfying. Don't worry about being "straight", take pride in your diversity.

It simply is not necessary to have the blade flat on the surface of the rod when honing on the flats. You will still be honing on a broader area than when you are using the edges of the rods. This will give you a smoother finish than using the edges and will apply less stress to the edge of the knife. You will get a more uniform and more durable edge if you use the flats, even if you don't do a perfect job of it.
 
I'm as uncoordinated as a drunk pig on a hockey rink, so I thought that it was just my own ineptitude that kept me from sharpening worth a dang on the flats...

Then I realized that **not one** of my sharpmakers' rods is flat on *any* side :(

-D
 
AAAaaaahhhhh, So I will try to modify my position to achieve the mechanical regularity of my stroke.

And I will pride myself for awkwardness.....errrr...diversity :)

But ... the most important info is that the flats will not show symmetrical patterns whilst I stroke.
That's where I missed the boat. I figured that I should see wide strips on the white bars.

Like in all things .......
I just have to do it more to get proficient.
:D ;)

So :confused:
How are you other guys doing at sharpening with the 204?
There are so many proponents of the 204 I know it has to have lots of merit.

Old horses new tricks sort of thing. It's hard to leave the larger stones behind.

I hope the passarounders will post here also.
Tom
 
Hi Tom. Thanx for the kind words and the support.

As to the flats, I'm with Jeff. Thanx Jeff.

sal
 
Sal, et al:

I tried the Sharpmaker last evening for the first time and I can honestly say, I enjoyed the experience and got some really sharp blades in the process.

I've been using a Gatco for a number of years and before that, Arkansas stones. Yeah, I could usually get a nice edge...but nothing like with the Sharpmaker in as short a time as I did.

I sharpened my kitchen Wustof Classic knives and got an edge MUCH, MUCH, BETTER than the factory. I also sharpened by older Japanese Mac knives to an edge that was only a dream before. The old carbon Sabatier is going to need some additional attention as even with a 15* back bevel, it got sharp but for a carbon steel knife, I would have expected better. Must have been my technique.

The BEST of the night was with my Benchmade 705 as I got that drop point 'scary sharp' with only the 20* setting and hardly any work at all.

Being that I live just up the road from the Spyderco plant in Golden, I have often though of stopping in and saying hello, even buying one of their S30V knives. Perhaps someday I will, on my way to an appointment in Boulder.

In the meantime, thanks Sal! You've got yourself a great design and functioning sharpener...as if you didn't know that. :) Nice video too, informational.

Jerry S.
 
I just got a sharpmaker today, have not had time to try it (I'm at work). I have a question, everything seems to fit in the plastic case neatly except for the brown rods, where do they go?
 
WooHoo!! first post. Welcome!!

The brown rods lay on top of the brass pins and white rods.

I don't have it in front of me. (It's going round the US and Canada on passaround)

If I remember the white lock in the bottom of the side. The groove locks them in. Brass pins fit press fit.
Brown rods lay on top. With the cover on there is no rattle.

Hope this helps and feel free to post your experience with the 204 here.
I've learned a lot just from this thread.
Regards
Tom
 
Yup, that makes sense, they do fit, top doesn't "lock" down though. I am thinking about an x-coarse diamond stone as well. Thanks for the welcome, I have learned a LOT here : )
 
I'm pretty sure that I could lift the 204 by the top and it comes up in one piece. Thus locking to the base till a slight tug separates them.
Tom
 
I use the 20 degree for most everything.
I'm not a chronic user and I can't think of when I used the 15 degree.
Tom
 
Here is my review of the 204 SM courtesy of the pass-around.
I found the video professionally done and informative. Sal Glesser did a fine job of demonstrating just about every possible use for the sharpmaker. The video footage clearly portrayed proper usage with proper angles and distances. The manual was clear and concise as well.
Set up was quick and easy, pretty much foolproof.
I sharpened 17 knives with the SM, from cheap paring knives to Benchmades and Spydercos. Strictly following the instructions, I was able to get most of these knives hair shaving sharp as evidenced by the lack of it on my forearms.
Knives that had a blade angle way off 30-40 degrees required reprofiling via a more coarse benchstone as I realized that even with the medium SM stones it would have taken quite a long time.
On 90% of these knives the 20/20/20/20 rule, explained in the video and booklet, did the job.
I think it is important to find the most comfortable/effective height to place the SM in relationship to the body in order to get maximum results. This took a bit of experimentation.
Now for some problems that I experienced.
I had a very difficult time getting the last 1/2"-3/4" of the blade(tip) as sharp as the rest. This varied from knife to knife. I was able to effectively sharpen the whole length of a mini AFCK(154cm), two Buck crosslocks and a Schrade slipjoint, BUT not a Spyderco Police(ats55) and a couple of Chicago Cutlery kitchen knives, just to name a few folks might be familiar with. I don't know what the problem was as I did my best to maintain the same technique with all the knives.
I had varying success regardless of the amount of "up-sweep" of the blade, but I can say that my failures to create a uniform, shaving edge presented at the upswept tip portion of the blade. Maybe more practice would help.
I also had a problem regarding the oft-mentioned "rounded tips". I found it very difficult to maintain enough control over the blade to avoid this. I could always go back and correct this with a bench stone or the SM stones laid flat, but would rather not have that extra step or lost metal. Again, maybe some more practice would help.
In summary, I would say overall the 204SM is a fine sharpening device, but not without drawbacks.
I think it best for touch ups and/or maintaining an already sharp edge. Anything too far off 30-40 degrees or butter knife dull takes to much time to reprofile.
Despite the pre-set angles, there is still much left to proficiency of the human hand and eye, especially with obviously upswept or flexible blades. I think that a clamp-style system will offer a better option for the novice and/or for "tricky" blades.
For quick and convenient sharpening within the above described parameters, I feel the SM would be hard to beat.
Versatility describes the SM, just watch the video. You would be hard pressed to find a device that sharpens more.
All in all the 204SM is a user friendly, economical and versatile steel sharpening tool.
I would like to extend my sincere thanks to Tom O'Brien and Sal Glesser for this opportunity.
Regards,
Scot
 
About rounded tips, I have a Spyderco Native, which accidentally got a rounded tip in the process. I had to use a bench stone to remove it. The key is to stop grinding a small distance from the tip when using the corners of the rods. I gave my Native the Sharpmaker treatment the day before yesterday, and finished with the ultrafine rods, available separately from Spyderco. Now the Native is shaving sharp again.
I can agree with you regarding clamp systems. I have the Razor Edge Systems clamp, which can work with any bench stone. Both these systems complement each other, imo.
 
Very nice, thorough review. Thanks.
I agree that the 204 is best used in conjunction with my lansky.
For the usual maintenance touchups, whicj is 95% of the time, I'll use the 204.
Tom
 
Hey Tom, Sal, and all

I got the SM a few months ago. Before I was using diamond stones, Arkansas stones, gatco, tried just about everything. And I could get a blade sharp,,,,, just not quite as sharp as I wanted.
I have used the Sm to sharpen all my knives and my wifes scissors.
I'm with the concensus here. If you need to re-profile, you need to use a stone(although I do not have the coarse rods for the SharpMaker). I have found that a once a week touch-up on the SM keeps mine EDC scary sharp. I have also learned to take a bit of green chromium oxide(polishing compound) to the back of an old belt, and strop the edge.
My edc is a BM 710 in ATS34(sorry Sal:( ) but there is NO hair on either arm!! It jumps off before the blade ever gets there.
Thanks Sal for a great product, you guys enjoy the pass around,
Tom is a great organizer.

B.G.
 
Sorry I haven't been able to post a review. It's been snowing and such here and I have no heat. Got it out Thursday and I saw that it was recieved. I'll post a review as soon as I have some heat and can sit down in here. Sorry for the delay.
 
ssblood
i HOPE THAT YOU HAVE HEAT AGAIN (AGIN?)
$%#&#* caplocks

It seems that you folk down south a bit are gettin slammed with the ice and such. Not Good!
Best regards
Tom
 
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