Spyderco/FArid K2 - Full Review and testing.

Mine stays closed, but the size of it would make a copper possibly hassle you.

I had a Benchmade AFCK almost taken by Canadian police due to it's ease of flicking opening.. the stooges played with it for about 10mins trying to determine if they wanted to take it or not.. no joke...

Knives typically aren't going to get you brownie points with the law.

I say, but this knife and enjoy it. Just don't flash it at cops or plan on getting searched... :D
 
Not even close. The handle is heavy enough to pull away, but the blade is not, and will not open no matter how hard I try to flick it out.
 
Thanks for the review.

Wow! How much time is needed to make so much cuts? :eek:
Ankerson said:
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Wow, very impressive performance by the 10V steel, the knife carries a big price tag but obviously it has the performance to back it up! After 5500 feet of cardboard you must have the forearm strength of a teenage boy!
 
WOW, that's a beautiful piece. I'm sure on what I want for my birthday now. By any chance is it much thinner than a mega manix?
It's awfully classy for being such a ravenous beast. Wonder how it'll do a year down the line
 
Excellent review and testing. Wonderful work. That 10V seems to hold a wickedly sinister edge. How is the corrosion resistance ? Chromium content is pretty low.
 
Wolverine666 said:
Excellent review and testing. Wonderful work. That 10V seems to hold a wickedly sinister edge. How is the corrosion resistance ? Chromium content is pretty low.
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Haven't had any issues with it, wouldn't want a fillet knife in it, but for a general use blade it's fine.

Doesn't take much care at all really, kept clean and dry.
 
Ankerson said:
Haven't had any issues with it, wouldn't want a fillet knife in it, but for a general use blade it's fine.

Doesn't take much care at all really, kept clean and dry.
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Good to hear. The K2 really has my attention. It's funny , I just replied to someone in another thread where he had issues with his D2 blade on his BM 710 getting rust spots. And D2 is pretty much a "semi-stainless" steel with its 12% chromium content. So when I saw that 10V had 5.25% chromium I was curious as to how it would fare corrosion-wise.

But I'm definitely no steel expert and there could be other things in steel that helps ward off rust that I'm unaware of. Or perhaps the difference in heat treating between BM and Spyderco is the key factor. But would heat treating techniques affect corrosion resistance ?
 
Wolverine666 said:
Good to hear. The K2 really has my attention. It's funny , I just replied to someone in another thread where he had issues with his D2 blade on his BM 710 getting rust spots. And D2 is pretty much a "semi-stainless" steel with its 12% chromium content. So when I saw that 10V had 5.25% chromium I was curious as to how it would fare corrosion-wise.

But I'm definitely no steel expert and there could be other things in steel that helps ward off rust that I'm unaware of. Or perhaps the difference in heat treating between BM and Spyderco is the key factor. But would heat treating techniques affect corrosion resistance ?
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I have 4 knives in A11 and have never had any issues with them corrosion wise. :)
 
FWIW - My tinkering ht #s are simplistic (yeah helpful to keep 'em straight in my mind)

With optimal/best-case-scenario (MC & M7C3 form) ht D2 has around free 5.5%Cr for corrosion resistant. Vs. 10V where its 5.25%Cr stay free after ht. Therefore optimal D2 & 10V corrosion resistant is about the same. However with poorly ht D2 (MC + lot of M23C6), net free Cr% at worse case could be 1.4%. **assumptions - Cr are uniformly distributed, so cementite formation/precip is at minimal to almost none **.

Wolverine666 said:
Good to hear. The K2 really has my attention. It's funny , I just replied to someone in another thread where he had issues with his D2 blade on his BM 710 getting rust spots. And D2 is pretty much a "semi-stainless" steel with its 12% chromium content. So when I saw that 10V had 5.25% chromium I was curious as to how it would fare corrosion-wise.

But I'm definitely no steel expert and there could be other things in steel that helps ward off rust that I'm unaware of. Or perhaps the difference in heat treating between BM and Spyderco is the key factor. But would heat treating techniques affect corrosion resistance ?
Click to expand...
 
bluntcut said:
FWIW - My tinkering ht #s are simplistic (yeah helpful to keep 'em straight in my mind)

With optimal/best-case-scenario (MC & M7C3 form) ht D2 has around free 5.5%Cr for corrosion resistant. Vs. 10V where its 5.25%Cr stay free after ht. Therefore optimal D2 & 10V corrosion resistant is about the same. However with poorly ht D2 (MC + lot of M23C6), net free Cr% at worse case could be 1.4%. **assumptions - Cr are uniformly distributed, so cementite formation/precip is at minimal to almost none **.
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Wow , sounds like you know your stuff. I'm always a bit hesitant buying a knife with a carbon steel blade (as opposed to stainless) due to the fact that I live right on the ocean. The salt air can do a number on some steels. But I've never had a problem with D2.

Ankerson , I'm not familiar with A11. Is it a carbon tool steel ?
 
Ankerson said:
Specs:

OAL: 9 15/16
Blade Length: 4.5"
Blade thickness: .136"
Behind the edge: .020"
Closed: 5 3/8"
Weight: 6.2 oz
Steel: CPM 10V @ 63 HRC

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This is my full review and testing process, Rope, Cardboard and Wood. The process is to cut 5/8" Manila rope until 20 LBS is reached, then move on to cardboard and the wood cutting.

The knife was reprofiled to 15 DPS and finished at 400 Grit SIC.

1st up is the Rope

The knife made 1,100 slicing cuts on rope until 20 lbs of down force was reached. There wasn't any issues with the edge or the knife in general, had one small shiny spot on the edge after the rope cutting, the knife would still slice phone book paper after the rope cutting.

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2nd was the Cardboard Stage.

The knife was resharpened before this stage back to hair whittling sharpness. I sliced 5,500 ft of cardboard, that's 1833 Yards or slightly over a mile of cardboard, there was zero edge damage after the cardboard and the knife would still slice Phone book paper after this stage. There wasn't any issues with the knife at all, lockup is still solid.

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Last was the Wood cutting Stage:

The knife wasn't sharpened before this stage, I made thick and thin cuts in wood and snapped the blade out sideways to stress the edge. There was zero edge damage or any other issues with the lockup and or blade play after the wood cutting. Noticed no additional dulling after this stage....

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Conclusion:


The K2 performed far above my expectations, it was for the most part flawless other than that one small shiny spot on the edge during the rope cutting. Lockup remained solid, zero blade play and the edge retention was the best of any production blade I ever tested. Didn't notice any hot spots and the K2 fills the hand nicely.

The K2 can do some real work as was shown by cutting over a mile of cardboard then whittling wood without having to sharpen it so it could make an excellent field knife as that showed and the 1,100 cuts on the rope showed it would make an excellent hunting blade.
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You, are for sure a tester that would appreciate the Edge Sharpness Tester EST KN 100.

Very accurate and simple to use.

Thanks

Rupert

A fellow sharpener who lives in Bentonville, Arkansas received his Edge Sharpness Tester yesterday (Saturday) and will be traveling to Raleigh next month - if possible maybe you and the Arkansas sharpener will be able to meet and use his instrument

I, do not know how to do Private Email on this Forum and may not have access to that feature. Contact Mike (owner) at Edge On Up, telephone 480) 622 8859 and or edgeonup@gmail.com. Mike has the info for contacting me and will share said info with you.

What a pile of cardboard (one mile) WOW? What a chore!

Is there a chance that you will be at Blade in Atlanta next month?
 
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