spyderco manix 2 blade swap

Yes, all went well.......

Blade swop completed & FRN scales 100% functional with substituted S30V blade.





















Project well worth it - no wastage......

:)
 
MadRookie - Nice work.

I am going to go an easier route,since I just milled the rivet off, I plan on chucking the remaining rivet on a lathe and drilling a hole straight through it.Then simply tapping it but first I got to have to look for some type of stainless pan head screw.
 
Madrookie what and where did you order your fasteners? I assume you had to drill out and countersink for the screw heads?? Give us some details!
 
In another thread MadRookie linked to these fasteners: http://www.kmts.co.za/Main.asp?D={37056F5E-B915-4976-B78E-0C30C379301E}&PageType=Product&SKU=DP3.0T050++++++ &CategoryID=130
They seem like an absolutely perfect fit for this application. Unfortunately I have been unable to find anything similar in the US so far.
 
MadRookie said:
Cool, the dilemma you face now is that you have to remove the other pins to re-assemble with another blade, as fitting the pivot & figure 8 liners needs specific lineup with the flat sections....

:)
Click to expand...

Not a problem for me at all.Just a pair of watchmaker tweezers,some finesse and 5 minutes of patience.Placing the blade pivot in the blade with one washer,spreading the handles,placing the pivot in the approx. area of the pivot support arms,next gently sqeezing the handles together trying to get one side of the pivot into the arm and next,is what I found did the trick of getting the flat part on the pivot in the hole of those support arms - holding the blade a few degrees off vertical and while moving the blade caused enough fiction that the pivot went in.

The only problem that I have now is the rivet, as it is an extremely tight fit.Not sure what I'm going to do or if I will just install two stainless pan head screws instead which requires tapping.

As for fitting the blade into my Gen 1 Manix2 - I just removed the blade pivot and two handles screws on one side only,swung the liners and G-10 scales 180 degree,pulled back on the cage and gently jimmied it out.Then placed the new blade on the pivot partially and while pulling back on the cage was able to slip the blade on,put with the other washer on, and finally swivel the liners and scales over and fasten the screws back.Done. In minutes.


DSC05146_zps5b3aff15.jpg
 
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razorburn said:
Not a problem for me at all.Just a pair of watchmaker tweezers,some finesse and 5 minutes of patience.Placing the blade pivot in the blade with one washer,spreading the handles,placing the pivot in the approx. area of the pivot support arms,next gently sqeezing the handles together trying to get one side of the pivot into the arm and next,is what I found did the trick of getting the flat part on the pivot in the hole of those support arms - holding the blade a few degrees off vertical and while moving the blade caused enough fiction that the pivot went in.

The only problem that I have now is the rivet, as it is an extremely tight fit.Not sure what I'm going to do or if I will just install two stainless pan head screws instead which requires tapping.

As for fitting the blade into my Gen 1 Manix2 - I just removed the blade pivot and two handles screws on one side only,swung the liners and G-10 scales 180 degree,pulled back on the cage and gently jimmied it out.Then placed the new blade on the pivot partially and while pulling back on the cage was able to slip the blade on,put with the other washer on, and finally swivel the liners and scales over and fasten the screws back.Done. In minutes.
DSC05118_zpsef653aa6.jpg
Click to expand...

Well done there!!!

:)
 
razorburn said:
The only problem that I have now is the rivet, as it is an extremely tight fit.Not sure what I'm going to do or if I will just install two stainless pan head screws instead which requires tapping.
Click to expand...

Can you not just tap it it? Put a block of wood on the rivet and then tap that in.
 
I ground off the burr on the milled end till flush,then put a bevel and tried tapping it in with a light ball peen hammer.No luck there,causes a slight bend in the rivet. Even placed in a vice with a wooden block on one end with the other on the rivet.

No luck still,until I took out a pair of digital calipers and measured the area just under the head of the rivet which came to 0.1075" - 0.108",then measured the other end and found the the shaft was deformed a couple of thousands of an inch.Could have been cased by driving it out or after,in.Still not sure what sized hole is, I did the next best thing got out a drill bit set which has numbered,letter and fractional sized drills.Measured one that was (0.1065") closest,placed the shank into the hole and with a little wiggling went in.Then proceeded to open and close the blade a couple of times,then tested the lockup, which was not rock solid, but had a little wiggle but no significant blade play.
 
Finally got around to turning down the mushroomed end of the rivet,down a couple of thousands of an inch.Then drilled a 1.30MM hole straight through it,so at a later date I can drill it out a little more for a screw or custom made pin. The couple thou' did make a difference when trying driving it back in.


DSC05118_zpsfa30b4ea.jpg
 
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Just an update.I got around to making a tapered pin to fit the remaining drilled out rivet. Pressed in with a vise and loctited. Easily removable with the rivet being drilled straight though.

M2Pin2_zpsfd9b4c97.jpg


M2Pin1_zpse54f94fa.jpg


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DSC05168_zpsdfe6fec8.jpg
 
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Nice job. Very clean and factory looking. Most would never notice the little pin hole, but it is a neat solution.
 
J.Vervoorst said:
In another thread MadRookie linked to these fasteners: http://www.kmts.co.za/Main.asp?D={37056F5E-B915-4976-B78E-0C30C379301E}&PageType=Product&SKU=DP3.0T050++++++ &CategoryID=130
They seem like an absolutely perfect fit for this application. Unfortunately I have been unable to find anything similar in the US so far.
Click to expand...

Anyone have any luck finding these fasteners in the states?
 
I am still looking for right sized torx bolt and "female" bolt. Delica repair kit requires keyed hole to be able to tighten and making that is rather pain. (I tried with center frame bolt. So, practically speaking, I cut the flat heard machine bolt to length and cut notches to hold hex nut in place. (blade stop pin and rear frame bolt.)

Unlike MadRookie, I didn't have an access to drill press, it was not as easy. I wanted to make sure ball bearing lock bar is without burr, I needed to disassemble completely to polish all those moving parts.

WP_20140615_001_zps14d49120.jpg


MFL
 
nccole said:
Nice job. Very clean and factory looking. Most would never notice the little pin hole, but it is a neat solution.
Click to expand...

Thanks,I used some round 3/16" 416 Stainless Steel turned on a lathe.So there should not be an issue with rust. For the round head, I simply used a file.
 
J.Vervoorst said:
In another thread MadRookie linked to these fasteners: http://www.kmts.co.za/Main.asp?D={37056F5E-B915-4976-B78E-0C30C379301E}&PageType=Product&SKU=DP3.0T050++++++ &CategoryID=130
They seem like an absolutely perfect fit for this application. Unfortunately I have been unable to find anything similar in the US so far.
Click to expand...

The closest one is a 1/8"(.125") pivot with 2-56 torx screws from Knifekits but that does not have a large 5.5MM diameter screw heads.
 
Just wanted to let others know that if you are going to install those pivots like MadRookie,you will be needing to drill out the back spacer/blade stop and it seems it is stainless steel which is extremely hard to drill out.
 
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