Spyderco Military standoffs?

Is 100 count the minimum you can order? I'll half the price with you!
 
We should start a hunt for the same style standoffs as the one at usaknifemakers, only a larger diameter to be more proportional with the handle size. There has to be some out there in the depths of the Internet.
 
I agree. So far, I've been using this cruwear with the new stand offs in them and they feel just fine! I'm sure they will hold up over time. I've got a titanium scale coming in and will eventually build a franken-cruwear-millie!
 
This is a very clean way to customize our beloved Millies. Thanks to all you who have experimented and put this together. It made it really easy to see which ones looked like what. I ended up ordering the stand-offs and screws from USA Knifemaker. 91Bravo, your looks super clean, I went with the same ones. I ordered 10, since I have 5 Millies. Thanks all!
 
I used a screw cutter. It's a pair of pliers that has different sizes of screws/threads and you set the screw in there to the depth you like, then snip. It preserves the threads of the screw during cutting.
 
gooeytek said:
I used a screw cutter. It's a pair of pliers that has different sizes of screws/threads and you set the screw in there to the depth you like, then snip. It preserves the threads of the screw during cutting.
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Nice, I love buying new tools!
 
gooeytek said:
I used a screw cutter. It's a pair of pliers that has different sizes of screws/threads and you set the screw in there to the depth you like, then snip. It preserves the threads of the screw during cutting.
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Are you talking about just a cheap pair of electrical pliers with the shear action bolt cutters? I think mine only go down to #4-40.
 
I would be down to purchase some of those bigger torq screws if anyone has any extra!
 
nccole said:
Are you talking about just a cheap pair of electrical pliers with the shear action bolt cutters? I think mine only go down to #4-40.
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I used to use a pair of Klein electrician's pliers that also went down to 4-40, and it did the job but the end of the screw wasn't perfectly square. About a year ago, I happened to look in my grandfather's toolbox (he was an Electrical Engineer for the FCC) and he had a pair of really old Radio Shack pliers that was similar to the Kleins, but I noticed that there was a smaller hole than that of the 4-40 on mine and found that it worked better and was a closer fit for the 2-56 screws. It's metric M2.5 I believe, and although it's not a perfect fit it does a better job than my Klein pliers.

Lately though, what I've been doing is this, and it's such a simple method, I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner:

I have parts of my Emerson CQC-10 from when I had it converted into a framelock. I use the stainless liner that's already tapped for the 2-56 body screws and thread the screw in it to the length I need, with the excess protruding out of the other side. I then snip that with a pair of Knipex nippers (these cut nails & piano wire, really tough mutha), and after a couple of passes with a file to get it close to flush, I back the screw out and the threads get cleaned in the process.

Hope that helps.
 
gooeytek said:
...Hope that helps.
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Very much so. I think I can dig up some old scale or donor knife with #2-56 threads and use that method. Normally for bigger screws or bolts I thread a nut on then use a hacksaw or cutoff wheel and then back the nut off to clean up the threads. I wanted to do this but did not have a #2-56 nut, not to mention the trickiness of the very small screw. That is a great idea though. I also have one of those oscillating saws that is pretty convenient for flush cuts that might be great with the tapped handle scale method.
 
Well I just did the standoffs and larger T8 torx to 4 of my Millies. This thread was awesome. They not only make the knife look way cleaner, the T8's are much more robust when you tighten down on them. I like the fact that the standoffs are steel instead of whatever soft metal that Spyderco uses. I have stripped a standoff before. With these steel standoffs and T8 torx, it feels very, very secure. I used the plain stand offs and the T8 torx from usaknifemakers. I used a 4-40 screw cutter, and it worked just fine. Thank you to the folks that put this info together, it make it super easy.
 
Vegas Blade said:
Well I just did the standoffs and larger T8 torx to 4 of my Millies. This thread was awesome. They not only make the knife look way cleaner, the T8's are much more robust when you tighten down on them. I like the fact that the standoffs are steel instead of whatever soft metal that Spyderco uses. I have stripped a standoff before. With these steel standoffs and T8 torx, it feels very, very secure. I used the plain stand offs and the T8 torx from usaknifemakers. I used a 4-40 screw cutter, and it worked just fine. Thank you to the folks that put this info together, it make it super easy.
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Did you get the screws flush like the original screws? Mine weren't initially but I tightened them deforming the G10 enough to do so. The T8 combined with the steel standoffs plus the fact I had extras made me feel confident in doing that.
 
Yes I was able to. I just had to make sure the screws were short enough not to hit each other. Initially a few were sticking out. Once I trimmed the screws, they flushed up. Seems WAY stronger this way doesn't it?
 
Yes, much stronger. Plus, if I were to strip some threads or a Torx head, this setup is easily drilled out and replaced for a couple of bucks.
 
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