Spyderco Para 3 Maxamet or CruWear?

wheelgunrambo said:
They are doing that one in a cf handle. Why do you like it I have never used it.
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In my opinion, you can never go wrong with a Spyderco in s90v/CF. I have a Yojimbo 2 in this set up. s90v is an overall great steel, but is stainless (which I like) unlike
Cruwear or maxamet.
 
At risk of sounding like I am trying to hijack the thread, how is sharpening S110V and Maxamet versus S30V and Cru-wear? I know Cru-wear is kinda between M4 and D2, and S110V pretty much just laughed at my diamond stones. S30V is slow going, but it sharpens, a fair bit more difficult than D2.

I ask because if Maxamet is worse than S110V which is already punishing to sharpen, that can be a major factor in the decision between the two.
 
Maxamet with the right abrasives isn't going to be a problem sharpening and a strop will bring it back to life. Then again reprofileing may be a different story.

I'd suggest the maxamet. Tho cru is going to be tougher if you need A 3" blade for such tasks?
 
dkb45 dkb45
Ranked from easiest to toughest when using DMT Diafolds, and DMT bench coarse/fine stones, freehand.

D2
Cruwear
M4/Maxamet
S30V
S110V
S90V

At least that is how sharpening goes for me.

- S110V wasn't as bad as S90V, dunno why...
- I leave my D2 Very toothy, like 220 grit toothy for rope, lines and other fibrous or slick materials, so it is fairly quick and easy.
- Cruwear was a breeze to sharpen, and didn't form a stubborn burr when left toothy or brought up to a high polish.
- M4 and Maxamet are equal in terms of input needed. M4 sharpens easier, but takes more to break the burr. Maxamet forms a burr, but since it is as hard as it is, and the make up of the alloy makes it feel like the burr just pops off easily and leaves a Fantastic edge.
(M4 is easier earlier in the sharpening, Maxamet is easier later in the sharpening)
- S30V tends to hold a burr more stubbornly than the others.
- S90V feels like it doesn't want to be cut by me on a DMT plate. It does cut, but maybe I am too hard on it, I dunno... I guess I haven't used this alloy enough to get a good feel for it...
 
Cruwear is suppose to be a really good all around steel. In a folding knife I wouldn't think you would need a steel as tough as cruwear but that's based on what I do with my folders. Should be semi stainless sort of like 3v. I just got a cruwear fixed blade but haven't used it so this is all based on my research before my purchase. And based on everything I read I believe cruwear would hold an edge considerably longer then S30v although I may just think less of it then many people do my pm2 in S30v has let me down a little with the polished edges retention wise.
 
Just to note that the blade-stock in the PM3 is thicker than in the PM2... 0.150" instead of 0.140". I just don't know why...???
Wish Sal would tell us.
IMO, that PM3 would be a LOTTTTT more useful to me if the blade-stock was about 0.110". IF I keep this knife, it will take a trip to go see Josh at REK to get some of that fat off, perhaps even hollow-grind it a bit.
 
Sonnydaze said:
Just to note that the blade-stock in the PM3 is thicker than in the PM2... 0.150" instead of 0.140". I just don't know why...???
Wish Sal would tell us.
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I know you posted this awhile ago but I just saw this and thought I'd respond. The original specs for the Para 3 did say the blade stock was .150" vs. the PM2 at .145". I assume the .150" spec for the Para 3 was based on the prototype because the one I received was the same as both my PM2s (.145"). My Para 3 Cruwear is also about .145" (actually .144).

The blade stock spec was updated in the mid-year catalog for all the new Para 3 models and I see now that Spyderco's website lists the same.
 
NJBillK said:
Cruwear sharpens easier and takes a keener edge than S30V in every knife I have had in S30V. I have had 4 or 5 knives in S30V and one Cruwear Manix 2.
Edge holding would probably be close and likely depend on geometry more so than other variables.

All things being equal, S30V might hold an edge a very little bit longer, but not enough to worry about. I would appreciate the easier sharpening over edge holding


M390 will hold a working edge longer than Cruwear and S30V, while likely being in between the two in toughness (less than Cruwear but more than S30V).

I do not have any hands on experience with Elmax, so I cannot comment on it further than suggesting you look into the S35VN vs. Elmax toughness thread. It is in general chat, and likely a few pages back by now.
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I have a Elmax pm2 with a Krein regrind to 0.005 thick bte. I put it through lots of hard work, rough cutting dirty wood, chopping through a 3 inch branch(it took me forever, over 5 minutes) and it was still shaving sharp afterwards. I couldn't tell the difference on the edge from its original(30° inclusive with a light microbevel on a Spyderco medium stone).

As far as cruwear vs maxamet all I can say is cruwear is a very nice steel, takes a great edge, holds it plenty long and isn't a pain to touch up or sharpen. Haven't tried maxamet yet, I need to eventually. I've been more into low carbide/high edge stability steels that are ground very thin as of late. Nitrobe 77, lc200n and Aeb-l get a lot of rotation in my edc and I'm looking forward to a Nitro V knife. I love being a knife nut right now, we get so much choice in new steels now, not like it was 15 years ago when ats34 and 440c was all you saw mostly, a high carbide pm steel was a treat and a rarity. Now we have steels that can reach over 70hrc(that's nuts), nitrogen steels, better and finer pm steels, Damasteel, Damascus and crazy San Mai's and good lower end steels for budget knives.

If you ask me, I'd buy both knives if funds allowed it, first get the cruwear sprint and pick up maxamet later on.
 
wheelgunrambo said:
It is kinda hard to chop with a 2.95" blade. I was shaving down through it. On backpacking trips I don't carry any type of sharpener and have never had any problem with rust. I have a diamond sharpener system so I shouldn't have any problems. I think what I am looking for is a sharper longer edge.
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How I missed the bolded part when I read this thread the first time I don't know. This is some comedy gold right here.

Back on topic, having had a little more time with my Cru-wear Manix, I can definitely recommend it over the Maxamet version. No experience with Maxamet, but man Cru-wear is a fine steel. Takes a polish like nothing, hold the edge well, resists damage well, and has better corrosion resistance than expected. The handles of the Cru-wear version also have a unique checkering pattern to them, they aren't just plain grey G10. Cheaper too. I mean of course you should get both models, but I would say start with Cru-wear.
 
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