Spyderco Paramilitary 2

Cypress

Cypress

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2009
Messages
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Having been a Benchmade fanboy for almost 15 years, I've recently been branching out and expanding my horizons. After being on the forums for a while, I couldn't deny the impressive following that Spyderco has. I've been rotating a Microtech Ultratech, a Benchmade 3550 and a BM 943.

I began narrowing down which model to get by starting with "looks". This is usually how I always begin my search for a knife, as I won't carry a knife that doesn't visually appeal to me (shallow right?). I wanted an attractive, tough, and unique knife with somewhat decent steel. I don't like lockbacks, and after using the Axis lock for so long, I tend to stay away from liner locks.

This left the Manix series and the Paramilitary 2 (with a few outliers). The lock on the Manix is a bit too much like the Axis, so, Paramilitary 2 it was! $175 later, it was on its way. I know these go for (much) less on occasion, but I am not a patient person.

After USPS delivered the knife two days late (typical), I unboxed what was to be my new EDC. I was immediately impressed with how light the knife is! Most of my Benchmades are aluminum, so this made sense. I was also impressed with how SHARP the knife came. A sharp as it is, there was still a small funky patch of edge proximal to the choil. I'll take care of this when I sharpen the knife.

When I saw the specs for the PM2, I noticed it was close to my BM 520. In fact, the two are almost dimensionally identical.

Here is my 943, 520, and PM2 together for scale. It's hard to see, but the PM2 is only .03" longer in OAL than the 520. The blades see only a ~.03" difference in length.





Thickness goes to the 520, but it's also damn-near 2 ounces heavier.



I REALLY like the coating on the PM2. It is about as non-reflective as you can get, and mildly matches some of the digicam.

One thing I can see being a potential problem is how thin the tip is. It is one of the "pointiest" knives I've ever had, but I can't see myself stabbing it into wood for fear of breaking the tip.

Compared to the 520's tip:





Guts of the compression lock:



I'm out to town on this knife. I love pros and cons lists, so:

Pros:

Good feel in hand with many hand positions and well-placed jimping
Very attractive in person
The coating on the blade is impressive
Light weight for a bigger knife
SHARP
Good steel
Strong lock
Open construction will allow for easy cleaning
Tip-up, tip-down, left, and right carry

Cons:

Not a very good bevel grind from the factory
I can thumb-snap the blade out, but it is nowhere near as smooth or fluid as any of my Benchmades
Possible weak tip
Carry is strange with the tip up, as the jimping behind the thumbhole catches material on pocket entry

The main reason I'm iffy on the knife is the lock. I know it's strong, but the location of the lock is extremely foreign to me. I still maintain that the Axis lock sets the standard for strength, smoothness, and ease of use. The compression lock can definitely be actuated with one hand, but its something I need to get used to. I've never unlocked a folder with my middle finger until now!

How it's done:



In the end, I'll be carrying this knife for a month to see how it grows on me. I hope the pivot smooths out, and my hand can get used to the lock. As for the rabid fanfare for the PM2, I guess I just don't get it. It's definitely not a bad knife, but it hasn't "wowed" me like the Spyderco forum suggested.
 
Yeah, I don't get what all hype about the PM2 is either. It seems to be a grail of some sort and I really don't know why. Ide much rather have a Manix 2 as far as Spydercos go. I actually have one on the way. I own a Citadel as well and I love it. It's one of the best autos that I own. I'm not a Spyderco junkie by any means but if Spyderco used Axis locks, I would be all over them.
 
When I'm grasping the knife in a manner to where I can actually depress the lock bar, I really don't feel confident flicking the knife. Plus, the less-than-smooth pivot doesn't allow the blade to close fully under a "normal" flick.

I'm almost positive most of the friction is stemming from the detent ball against the DLC coating. Pressing the lock bar all the way into the liner pulls the ball away from the blade and the pivot smooths out a LOT, but it's still not butter. I assume the action will break in with use as I've seen youtube vids of the blade just swinging open and closed under gravity. I gave the pivot screw some micro adjustments and it didn't improve anything, which is a good sign as far as build quality is concerned :)

Adding another Pro to the list: the G-10 handles are grippy! Not to a pocket-shredding point, but a pleasantly-worn-down-sandpaper point.
 
Here's something mundane that I didn't realize: the blade offers an optical illusion. The spine of the blade is FLAT. The complete lack of a flat cutting edge makes the spine of the knife look slightly curved in pictures and somewhat in person.

 
1. I wouldn't worry too much about the tip. It's a good balance between pointy and tough.
2. Try using your index finger on the lock, and your thumb on/in the Spyderco hole. Kind of like opening it but backwards to close. Flicking it closed works for me on my PM2. Might just need to break in the detent/coating (until it wears a path).
3. Both the PM2 and the Military have that "funky" edge near the choil. I have a BG-42 Millie that was thinned and evened out and I have to tell you, the edge is a beauty.

Could you be more specific on the bad bevel grind? Or is it only that part proximal to the choil?
 
After a full day of "use" the action has gotten MUCH smoother! I can flip it closed now without too much hassle. I tried the reverse opening, but I don't think my hands are large/strong enough to actuate the lock and still have a thumb that's dexterous enough to close the blade. I also made the decision to go tip-up with the clip. When I close the knife, its position in my hand is perfect for this modality. Deploying the knife from my pocket sees less fumbling this way too.

The funky grind looks almost like whatever they use to sharpen the bevel (belt?) bit in a bit too much for half an inch before reaching the choil. I assume it's because the blade has no flat spot, and the sharpener slightly misjudged where the belly of the blade was going to contact the choil. There is a slight upsweep right at the choil, and the edge leading up to it looks like its been stropped. Hard to explain, but easily seen in person :)

The picture shows the slight downward curvature, and subsequent curve up to the choil. I know there is a technical term for the area where the blade meets the choil... Anyone know it?

 
Thanks for the excellent and well presented review.
A lot of work goes into a proper write-up and your efforts have definitely shone through in this one. :thumbup:

As to your observations, I have always considered the Military and the PM a bit on the delicate side, but in my mind that is quite alright.
They fill a niche that would otherwise be left vacant without them; they are light and fast and excellent slicers.
Visually the digicamo / black is a striking combo. I have one of each and they rank among some of my favorite folders.
Enjoy your new knife.
 
Cypress said:
The picture shows the slight downward curvature, and subsequent curve up to the choil. I know there is a technical term for the area where the blade meets the choil... Anyone know it?

Click to expand...



I can see what your saying, but I think your being overly critical.


Those secondary bevels look fine to me. :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:




Big Mike
 
yeah, that is generally because the blade shape doesn't have a sharpening choil (i.e. a 1-3 mm lost of cutting edge). It's fairly easy to fix yourself, but not with a belt sander. Try first with sandpaper around a very thin metal skewer and gently work it down. then thin the edge after evening out the bevel vertically (or convex it ;)).
 
I'm waiting for this thing to get dull before I do anything brash with the edge. I haven't even stropped the dang thing yet. I've been running it through boxes, plastic, and some webbing, but it still hasn't lost the factory bite... It could be the full flat grind leading me on, but it just won't stop cutting!

The more I use the knife, the more I'm impressed with it. Still not used to the lock though.
 
Cypress said:
The more I use the knife, the more I'm impressed with it.
Click to expand...

I think that statement right there, sums up how most of us feel about the PM2. Not rabid, unconsidered, forum/publicity fueled fanboy-ism. Genuine appreciation for a well made knife at that delivers performance beyond its price point (assuming you can find them at normal prices). :/
 
liamstrain said:
I think that statement right there, sums up how most of us feel about the PM2. Not rabid, unconsidered, forum/publicity fueled fanboy-ism. Genuine appreciation for a well made knife at that delivers performance beyond its price point (assuming you can find them at normal prices). :/
Click to expand...

There's the rub ;)

Also, I am VERY impressed with the DLC coating. My Benchmades would have been showing "work" on the BT2 by now.
 
What is remarkable about the PM2 is the overall value (ie, the price/performance ratio) it offers. This is why they are almost continually sold out.
 
I can agree with the weak tip aspect. I had to send mine back to Spyderco for reprofiling. Im still waiting on it as well.
 
Thanks for the review and your time spent on sharing your thoughts.

I have always used the same method of closing the Compression Lock as the Back Lock as described by Spyderco:

"To close a folding knife that includes a front lock, simply turn the open knife in your hand so that your fingers are on the open side of the handle and your thumb rests on the lock release. Making sure that your index finger is located as high as possible on the handle, release the lock by pressing with your thumb, a gentle flick of the wrist may be necessary. The kick (the unsharpened portion at the base of the blade) will fall onto your index finger protecting your hand from the cutting edge. Rotate the knife so that it is sitting at the base of your fingers with your fingertips on the clip side of the handle (the opening position). Place your thumb pad in the hole or on top of the blade spine and glide the blade safely to the closed position (see diagram). Slightly different closing procedures are used with other locking mechanisms. All closing mechanisms require the utmost caution and care."

http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=7
 
I don't have it right now, but there's a YT on Para digging wood and the tip wasn't so fragile as most will imagine. The poster used correct technique though, nothing like what Ankerson did on his 'abuse test' that snapped the manix tip.

With proper use, the tip should last IMO :)
 
Nice review, the main hype is a black/satin para2 could be picked up for $90 before they became scarce.
 
I decided the factory edge had seen enough abuse and put my own edge on the knife. The edge was definitely not dull, I just happened to get bored last night.

I put a 17 degree (34 inclusive) bevel on the blade with an ultra-fine stone, then finished it off with a 20 degree medium-stone microbevel. I use the medium stone on the microbevel to give the edge some bite. I then stropped it with leather+
Mother's Mag Polish. The results are outstanding! The same sharpening treatment on my S30V Benchmade didn't produce an edge anywhere near the "sharpness" of the PM2. I suppose this can be attributed to the full flat grind on the Spyderco, making for less steel behind the edge. It can cut paper towels pretty easily (this is hard for a lot of knives. Try it), and it'll slice toilet paper 1 cm from the fingers holding it. This makes it my second-sharpest knife!

The only knife I possess that can outslice the PM2 is my full flat grind Benchmade Shoki featuring M390 steel. I sent that one to Knifenut1013 and paid him put a near mirror finish on the 16 degree bevels, so it's almost hard to make the comparison between the two. Also, the Shoki is my suit knife, and not much of a user.

More paraporn

 
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