Spyderco Tenacious Problem

It's not going to be pretty but if you are just going for function and no other method works. Cut a straight hole across screw head with dremel and loosen with a screwdriver.
 
I just looked at my Tenacious and the pivot screw looks like a hex but a T8 Torx driver fits the best. I tried a 3/32" and 2.5 mm hex and they were both too big. A 7/64" hex was way too loose. A 2 mm hex was a little loose but not too bad of a fit. But, a T8 torx fit with the least amount of play of the five different sizes I tried.

If I need to adjust mine, I'll use the T8 torx.

Bruceter
 
If someone from Spyderco responds, you will find its a torx, no matter what it looks like. That said, try the #8 and if it still slips, try a drop of superglue and with the #8.
 
wwells20 said:
If someone from Spyderco responds, you will find its a torx, no matter what it looks like. That said, try the #8 and if it still slips, try a drop of superglue and with the #8.
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So you mean Ill put the drill bit into the head, add a drop of super glue, and wait it out, later it will work?
 
Namehisname said:
So you mean Ill put the drill bit into the head, add a drop of super glue, and wait it out, later it will work?
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Yes, if the #8 won't work on it's own, then use the glue. A drop right on the head of the bit and place in screw and wait for it to set up. Idea is the glue will help give a little more grip. * credit idea to Robbie Robertson/ SOG.
 
It's a TORX screw. The star type ridges are a little hard to see because the metal at the top folded over a little bit. Use a TORX bit. All of Spyderco's screws are TORX, except a couple of philips head clips from days past.
 
Hi Name,

I am sorry for your frustration. I would suggest that you send it back to Spyderco.

Knives are much more difficult to "work on" than most assume. We get back hundreds of knives that have been taken apart and put back together improperly. We are constantly asked to "repair" the damage. Knives are put together by experienced knife-makers. Often it takes years to develop the skills and sensitivity to assemble and "tune" a knife when it's manufacturered

If you stripped a screw, it means that you (or someone) probably applied too much force. Knives are assembled from precision made and fitted little bits of metal. A bit of experience does make working on them go better. Unfortunaely, gaining this experience usually means making mistakes and learning from them.

We'll be pleased to take out the stripped screw and replace it for you.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Name,

I am sorry for your frustration. I would suggest that you send it back to Spyderco.

Knives are much more difficult to "work on" than most assume. We get back hundreds of knives that have been taken apart and put back together improperly. We are constantly asked to "repair" the damage. Knives are put together by experienced knife-makers. Often it takes years to develop the skills and sensitivity to assemble and "tune" a knife when it's manufacturered

If you stripped a screw, it means that you (or someone) probably applied too much force. Knives are assembled from precision made and fitted little bits of metal. A bit of experience does make working on them go better. Unfortunaely, gaining this experience usually means making mistakes and learning from them.

We'll be pleased to take out the stripped screw and replace it for you.

sal
Click to expand...

As always, nothing but class.

Way to go, sir.

Robert
 
But I notice he didn't mention either hex or torx.;)

While I am not disagreeing with anyone who suggests otherwise, I am offering my own experience. My 2.0 hex bit fits perfectly. It feels perfect and looks perfect under a magnifying glass--all the sides match up flawlessly. My #8 torx of the same set also "fits." Although, it does not feel perfect nor does it look perfect under the magnifying glass--the sides do not line up flawlessly, as there are gaps between the bit and screw hole edge. I would post pics if I had a camera.

Maybe the manufacturing process (i.e. screws used) is not consistent in the Chinese factory. Or maybe people's driver bits are slightly different (although they really shouldn't be). But I really hope this issue can be conclusively solved at some point. It's driving me nuts!
 
I also thought it was funny that Sal didn't mention the great question :P (just jokeing) but in responce to Karl's post about slightly different sized bits- that can happen if you buy cheap allen keys, I once bought a set on sale and they were all .04" oversize- so it's not surprising if there are small ones out there somewhere.
 
Here is something that I have used for years on stripped/rounded out heads especially allens. It got me out of many a jam when people used the wrong size or worn allens (this is the biggest cause of stripped out heads). It's called Myro Screw-medic.
Its a liquid that has a suspension of minute particules something like fine grindings in it. You put the proper wrench into the head and then apply 1-2 drops of the liquid around the allen in the worn area. This fills the voids and allows you to loosen the screw. Worked in about 90% of the cases. I don't recall where I purchase it. Sorry bout that. You might want to try valve grinding compound as it looks the same. Good luck.
 
vulcangunner said:
Just received a new Spyderco Tenacious yesterday (4/6)...it is completely equipped with HEX screws.
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Funny, I received mine yesterday too (4/6) and mine are Torx. I took mine apart to clean, re-lube and LocTite it and used T8 for the pivot and T6 for the scales. Fit perfectly and really torqued them down too (well, not so much the pivot screw).
 
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