Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Apr 17, 2018
Title is pretty much everything here. I heard it was designed for dry use, but practice sometimes supersedes design.
In the past I have always used them dry. I hold one in my hand to touch up edges on some alloys that it works particularly well on. I like to see the edge right on the stone with the edge facing me so any lube would kind of obscure the gap and the moment when the gap closes and the edge is just touching down on the stone. Sorry that's the best way I can describe it.Other users have already reported it reduces loading,
If you're talking about industrial grinding, it does reduce loading. The main benefit of coolant is to keep the material from over heating. The wheels still need to be dressed off with an industrial diamond.
Ceramic stones for honing are totally different. Use oil one time and, it's an oil stone ,as Baryonyx
said in a thread years ago. There's no benefit in using a lubricant on them.
Perhaps you should buy India stones , where oil or a water based solvent is necessary.
Why pay more for ceramic only to use oil.
Oil is absolutely the best lubricating medium for any hone that does not shed much dull grit, as it WILL keep the hone cutting considerably longer. You can easily see the effect of this yourself with something like an Arkansas stone. Lap one fresh - note the dull and uniform surface texture. Staying to one half of the stone, hone a chisel on it using water as the lubricant with a good bit of pressure. Have a look at the surface texture of the hone and you will see it's picked up some shine. That's wear on the surface. Now move to the other half of the stone and hone for the same length of time using the same amount of pressure with oil as the lubricant. Now again note the surface texture - it will look almost if not exactly the same as when it was lapped. You can also compare how much swarf is produced by wiping it away with a paper towel after honing - the oil side will produce a significantly larger amount.