Stainless steel fixed blade

Nope, my experience with 8cr13mov is not the same. Doesn't perform to your claims.

You really like it though.

I'd save a ton if it was my favorite steel.

I just don't like it.

That's all.

Cheers.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Nope, my experience with 8cr13mov is not the same. Doesn't perform to your claims.

You really like it though.

I'd save a ton if it was my favorite steel.

I just don't like it.

That's all.

Cheers.
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Over in the super steels are old news thread I posted some of my experience with 8cr13mov with visual stimuli. Might paint a better picture for you if you go check it out.

I would love to hear of your experience with it and what brand, blade, HRC and so on.
 
Since Schrade was mentioned, another one I like is the schf14. It's a bit smaller (3.5" I think), but has given myself, and my little scout some good service. One thing I noticed right off the bat is that every sample I've had (5-6), the steel seemed REALLY hard for 8cr. Resharpening and getting a great edge took a ton of work, but seems to hold a good edge much longer also. I don't know if it was just a batch, or if that is how all of them are, but it's been a great knife.

Also, it comes with a really functional Kydex sheath, so water would be no problem. And the belt loop can easily be removed if you just want a thin blade sleeve for pocket or pack carry. For a street price under $40, it's really worth a look.

schrade-fixed-schf14-large.jpg
 
Boris74 said:
Over in the super steels are old news thread I posted some of my experience with 8cr13mov with visual stimuli. Might paint a better picture for you if you go check it out.

I would love to hear of your experience with it and what brand, blade, HRC and so on.
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I know man, I've seen your toothpick feathersticks.

I have a schrade F26 its a cool knife for the price but the edge retention is low and not to my liking its also takes longer to sharpen then some other stainless steels I like.

It works fine, just not spectacular
 
DeadboxHero said:
I know man, I've seen your toothpick feathersticks.

I have a schrade F26 its a cool knife for the price but the edge retention is low and not to my liking its also takes longer to sharpen then some other stainless steels I like.

It works fine, just not spectacular
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Problem isn't the steel. I've seen how much you thin out your blades. Any 1095 and 8cr13mov will not work well in wood with that thin of an edge. They look fancy and slice paper awesome but with some more experience in the woods you will learn you can make them just as sharp without thinning out the edge so much. My blades would fail just like yours if I ran them that thin too.

Reprofile them for wood working, not paper slicing and watch em go and go and go. If you don't believe me, just recheck some of my posts on them steels made by the same brand. They shave hair and aren't nowhere near as thinned out as yours.

Your problem is just lack of experience with sharpening them steels for wood working. Easily fixed. I've only been hand sharpening 1095 since 1979. I've tried all kinds of edge profiles. Every time I tried them as thin as yours, major failures.
 
Boris74 said:
Problem isn't the steel. I've seen how much you thin out your blades. Any 1095 and 8cr13mov will not work well in wood with that thin of an edge. They look fancy and slice paper awesome but with some more experience in the woods you will learn you can make them just as sharp without thinning out the edge so much. My blades would fail just like yours if I ran them that thin too.

Reprofile them for wood working, not paper slicing and watch em go and go and go. If you don't believe me, just recheck some of my posts on them steels made by the same brand. They shave hair and aren't nowhere near as thinned out as yours.

Your problem is just lack of experience with sharpening them steels for wood working. Easily fixed. I've only been hand sharpening 1095 since 1979. I've tried all kinds of edge profiles. Every time I tried them as thin as yours, major failures.
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Well maybe if you used different steel you could run the edge that thin without major failures.
 
Mecha said:
Well maybe if you used different steel you could run the edge that thin without major failures.
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Nope. No need to waste money on botique steels when I know how to sharpen 1095, SK5, 5160 and so on for working in wood. I have the same brands in the same steel and my 1095 goes two days making two camps and two nights worth of fire wood before they need touching up. I have the same exact stainless he does in the same exact blade and run razor sharp with a thicker edge it lasts even longer. I've learned a few things over the years. If he wants to run them steels in them blades he is better off sharpening like I have pointed out and forgetting about sharpening it like one of them expensive steels. If they insist on running paper slicing thin edges then they need to pony up and forget 1095 by anyone. Too easy.
 
Boris74 said:
Nope. No need to waste money on botique steels when I know how to sharpen 1095, SK5, 5160 and so on for working in wood. I have the same brands in the same steel and my 1095 goes two days making two camps and two nights worth of fire wood before they need touching up. I have the same exact stainless he does in the same exact blade and run razor sharp with a thicker edge it lasts even longer. I've learned a few things over the years. If he wants to run them steels in them blades he is better off sharpening like I have pointed out and forgetting about sharpening it like one of them expensive steels. If they insist on running paper slicing thin edges then they need to pony up and forget 1095 by anyone. Too easy.
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But what if being able to run a thinner blade made your log-batoning job easier and it turned out that it wasn't a waste of money?
 
Boris74 said:
Problem isn't the steel. I've seen how much you thin out your blades. Any 1095 and 8cr13mov will not work well in wood with that thin of an edge. They look fancy and slice paper awesome but with some more experience in the woods you will learn you can make them just as sharp without thinning out the edge so much. My blades would fail just like yours if I ran them that thin too.

Reprofile them for wood working, not paper slicing and watch em go and go and go. If you don't believe me, just recheck some of my posts on them steels made by the same brand. They shave hair and aren't nowhere near as thinned out as yours.

Your problem is just lack of experience with sharpening them steels for wood working. Easily fixed. I've only been hand sharpening 1095 since 1979. I've tried all kinds of edge profiles. Every time I tried them as thin as yours, major failures.
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Well, you seem to know me more then I know myself good friend.
Which of my knives are in question for being too thin?

I'd recheck your posts but I've seen all the toothpick pictures already.

Which angle.do you recommend?
 
Mecha said:
But what if being able to run a thinner blade made your log-batoning job easier and it turned out that it wasn't a waste of money?
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Yes, because I know to not thin out the steel I use to the point it gets damaged in use. My edge still shaves hair and holds that edge a long time. So I'm doing something right. I'm not going to over pay for the same performance just so I can say I have a thin edge.
 
DeadboxHero said:
Well, you seem to know me more then I know myself good friend.
Which of my knives are in question for being too thin?

I'd recheck your posts but I've seen all the toothpick pictures already.

Which angle.do you recommend?
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Your SCHF38. In another thread we talked in. Your edge is way too thin for 1095 and looking at the powder finish wear I know exactly what you did to get it like that. If you run the edge just as sharp but not as thin, you will be much more happy with its performance.

I don't feel like reposting the pics but I posted pics of my F26 in the are you over super steels thread. Post number 280, check it out. I've used it three more times since then and it's still shaving hair after just putting it away when I was done. I run it slightly more steep than it came and it's still shaving hair. It would be nice if all steels could run super thin edges, but not all can. Them basic steels work better in wood when they are not thinned out so much.

Re profile them to be not so thin and give them another try, they will do better.
 
Boris74 said:
Yes, because I know to not thin out the steel I use to the point it gets damaged in use. My edge still shaves hair and holds that edge a long time. So I'm doing something right. I'm not going to over pay for the same performance just so I can say I have a thin edge.
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If you're doing something right, then maybe with even stronger steel it would be even MORE right. It wouldn't be over-paying for the same performance, it would be paying more for even BETTER log-batoning power!
 
MAkives said:
Hey guys im lookingbfor a good stainless steel knife for when i go somewhere really humid and just want that much more rust resistance.or when im kayaking or canoeing for really long periods of time.my preferred length is a blade over 5", budget is under 100. And ive been wondering i dont want to force a patina on my knives how do you tell if it has a natural patina
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Mora or Helle would be good choices

Also something from Boker Plus in 440c
 
My Schf26 will not shave hair after carving on featherstick sticks.
Does someone need to shave hair in a survival situation? Haha no. But it is not the hallmark of a top performing knife either.

Haha Lighten up bro.
 
Mecha said:
If you're doing something right, then maybe with even stronger steel it would be even MORE right. It wouldn't be over-paying for the same performance, it would be paying more for even BETTER log-batoning power!
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You got me there. I know you're right. At this point I'm good to go with what I have. Best things about today's steel is it is so much better than even 20 years ago, and I'm not talking about the newer breeds of steel. The old timers are being made to better quality standards and heat treats all around are more consistent. Basic steels are so much better today than I remember them being a couple decades ago. That's working out great for me. Unless I break a knife I don't replace them for about 10-12 years. So if this last round of new tools don't fail me, I'm going to be a 1095 guy for at least another decade. I promise when 2025 rolls around and I get bored with what I have, I will try out 3V.
 
Boris74 said:
You got me there. I know you're right. At this point I'm good to go with what I have. Best things about today's steel is it is so much better than even 20 years ago, and I'm not talking about the newer breeds of steel. The old timers are being made to better quality standards and heat treats all around are more consistent. Basic steels are so much better today than I remember them being a couple decades ago. That's working out great for me. Unless I break a knife I don't replace them for about 10-12 years. So if this last round of new tools don't fail me, I'm going to be a 1095 guy for at least another decade. I promise when 2025 rolls around and I get bored with what I have, I will try out 3V.
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I hear ya, really love my old 1095 knives. :)
 
DeadboxHero said:
My Schf26 will not shave hair after carving on featherstick sticks.
Does someone need to shave hair in a survival situation? Haha no. But it is not the hallmark of a top performing knife either.

Haha Lighten up bro.
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I'm as light as they come. So we got one of two things here. You got a dud and mine is better than yours, or I know how to sharpen better. But get rid of that thin edge on that F38 and see how much more you like it doing what you do. You don't need it that thin to get it super sharp.
 
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