Stamping Question

TekSec

TekSec

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Dec 8, 2006
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Alright, I'm new and finally am getting to the point where I might actually get a blade to the fully finished and handled point. My problem right now is I purchased an Ever's stamp with the holder a few weeks back and can't seem to get an even stamp. I am placing the knife in the holder and striking the head of the stamp with a 3 lb. dead blow hammer. I miss either the far right or the far left on the mark (the stamp is EBOESE). I just miss the the first or the last E for some reason. I think I'm striking evenly, but apparently not. How can I get the blade to hold in place and still get an even blow?

Erik
 
I have one of those triangular welding magnets...and an Evers stamp.......

The magnet has slots in which is the same size as the stamp....and the stamp sits just proud of the magnet enough for me to hit it with a hammer.

I use the magnet to hold the stamp and place the magnet and stamp on the ricasso exactly where I want it,take my time, make sure everything is straight, then strike it.


BTW....I used to have a stamp with my name (rectangular) but changed the design so my name is now in a small circle, that way there is no up or down and the smaller the area of the impression the more chance of it being even.
 
Use a hydraulic press to stamp. Perfect always. Start @ 1200psi and go from there. Hammer is a joke.
Matt Doyle
 
mdoyle said:
Use a hydraulic press to stamp. Perfect always. Start @ 1200psi and go from there. Hammer is a joke.
Matt Doyle
Click to expand...

Hammer MIGHT be a joke if your stamp is going to displace alot of steel. Hammer works fine on smallish stamps. One knifemaker I know makes folders and therefore his stamps are small. He's done it by hand with a hammer for 30 years.

Ya know, if a hammer is all you have, you make it work. What you do is re-enter the "stamp", you can feel it ping into place, and smack the dang thing again....and again...till its just like you want it.

Or, buy a hydraulic press.:D
 
My problem is because of the design it's really hard to realign. I tried it one piece and it didn't go well. I think my main problem is the width of the stamp which is about 3/4". Of course, like everything else with knifemaking, it takes practice....dang addiction.

Erik
 
With a hyd press @ 1200 psi the mark may or may not be as deep as you like, but it will definitely be deep enough to restamp accurately. I had all the same problems you described when hammering and that is why I no longer hammer. I'm sure, as Kerry stated, there are people who do it and probably do it well, but it sure is a LOT more accurate and predictable. I could walk 30 miles to work, but I find it more efficient to drive.:D
Matt Doyle
 
Don Morrow (www.morrowknives.com) from helotes texas used a hand crank press and then smacks the top with a hammer. his stamps perfectly. and he uses ATS34. im just going to use the same tecnique as kevin davey. ive seen his knives in person and his stamping. his works perfectly for him. and the tecnique morrow uses works perfectly too. my question are you stamping before or after you harden and temper your blades?
 
We need some Folks to take some pictures of their stamping mech,
and desplay the differant types.

Thanks James
 
You are going to need a stamp Holder for the stamp and press it in. I made mine in the shop. If you go to my site you can see the stamp press there set up and waiting to work. If you need more help you can call me on the phone. Hope this was of help to you.

Barkes:thumbup:
When I leave this world I would like to be known by the one who make his knives from start to finish.

http://my.hsonline.net/wizard/TerryBarkesKnives.htm
http://my.hsonline.net/wizard
 
Pimpin',

I stamp prior to hardening.

Barkes,

I have a holder (decided to just buy one at the time of stamp purchase) so that's not a problem.

Thanks for all the help guys!!!! A pressing I will go!!

Erik
 
I posted this one once before, I feel like a fool for ever doing it any other way now that I built this. There is less than $40 in parts there, if you know how to weld.
press.jpg
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
I posted this one once before, I feel like a fool for ever doing it any other way now that I built this. There is less than $40 in parts there, if you know how to weld.
press.jpg
Click to expand...

DUHhhhhhh. When someone says "hydraulic press", why is it I think of a 50 ton ram and a joystick? I looking forward to building one of those so that I can feel like a fool too :p
 
The simpliest method I know is using a hammer. My stamp is only 5 charactors and it is an Evers stamp I have been using since the 1980's, and has stamped hundreds of blades with little problem.

Here's what to do. Set your knife on a level anvil. I use a length of old railway rail. Do this prior to heat treat. Place stamp in your vice grips. I keep the stamp attached to a vice grips that are only used for this. Heat up the spot you wish to stamp (tang) to cherry with the torch.

Just like down at the gun range breath, do not hold your breath and strike the hammer. Place stamp on hot spot, and ensure it is level and even on the blade, and simply strike moderately with hammer once.

Clean up any scale from heating, and go on with getting the blade ready for heatreat.
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
I posted this one once before, I feel like a fool for ever doing it any other way now that I built this. There is less than $40 in parts there, if you know how to weld.
press.jpg
Click to expand...

Thought I'd post a pic of the stamp press I just finished up last night.

Kevin, thank you for the inspiration!

I made it wide enough to accept knives from the front and the side, depending on where I want my mark to go. It works like a charm with my new Evers Stamp. It pops in and out in just a few seconds. I milled a slot in the lower cross member to accept the stamp, and installed a clip to keep it from falling out. Two 1/4-20 bolts hold the stamp square and plum while stamping. The jack is a 6 ton, and does the trick with little effort.

stamppress.jpg


I made about 15 successful stamps with it on a bar of O-1. All clear and crisp. I got the material to make it for free (out of the scap bin at work), and only paid for the jack. I think it cost around $20.00 at one of those discount tool stores. I ground the top (pad) of the jack smooth and flat so it wouldn't mar the bottom of the knife while stamping.
Thanks for looking.
Scott
 
I recently purchased a stamp for doing Damascus and stuff that is powder coated, the rest is etched.

I shopped around both with evers and buckeye engraving both do great work but buckeye's price was cheaper by 40.00, + I got to talk to the guy that was making my stamp and he helped me make some decisions.

A friend and fellow knife maker has a evers stamp which I compared and one thing stands out my logo is smaller than his and my stamp is twice the size in thickness giving me a better striking surface.Here is a link to the site http://steelhandstamps.com/

Just my 2 cents.

spencer
 
Kevin R. Cashen/scottang1/ who ever else has made a press like that. would it be posiable for me to make one w/o welds. i have a large die and tap set so putting it all togeather wouldnt be hard im just not sure how well that would hold?

-matt
 
As long as the bolts or fasteners can handle the tonnage it should work. Mine is a 20 ton bottle jack and the cross piece is contrusted of two solid bars of 1-3/4 X 1-1/8 stock, and I can flex it, can't bend it at all, but I can see it flex. But then typical bottle jack shop presses often have bolts or pins so I don't see why not.
 
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