Started my grinder build

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Dec 1, 2010
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99
It seems difficult to get a good grinder here in Canada so I thought I would try my hand at building one. I am doing kind of the kmg style, it seems most people are happy with that style of grinder. Made a bit of progress so far. I will post some more pics as I go along.

This unit will be a bit heavy, the bearing plates are 1 inch, the arm for tracking/tensioning wheel is 3/4.

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I will be making the idler and tensioning wheels as well, hope it turns out ok!
 
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I am going to mount the pivot to the top of the arm, a plate with a slot milled in, then the plate the wheel goes on will hang from the slot. This will allow me some alignment whereas if I have the plate pivoting from the vertical side of the arm i do not think there would be any room for alignment. I am sure there area a dozen ways of doing it, just trying to figure out what would work best for me. I have actually never seen a 2x72 grinder in person, just on the net. I am using a compression spring for the tension. I read somewhere of problems getting enough tension with a tension spring. I am sure I will be doing quite a bit of learning on this project, and that is why I decided to do it!

Any suggestions would be welcomed for sure!
 
I noticed that you centered the tensioning arm over the tool arm. How are you planning to mount the idler wheel so it lines up with the other wheels?

I'm assuming you're planning on direct drive. Are you sure you'll have clearance for that motor?
 
I welded the tensioner arm as a unit,and drilled and reamed the 3/4" pivot hole after welding the two plates to keep everything lined up perfect, reaming the plates then welding them is hard to keep everything lined up. I havent welded the pivot frame to the square base yet. The tracking mechanism is made out of 3/4" plate, which hasnt been bolted down to it yet, and I will weld the pivot frame when I finish making the tracking wheel and assemble it. It will be a shaft drive, I still have to drill out the rear flange bearing housing for the drive shaft to go through, again it will be drilled as a unit as it is welded first.
 
Nice looking build! That will be one stout grinder! Thanks for sharing! Looking forward to the completed project!
 
I am going to mount the pivot to the top of the arm, a plate with a slot milled in, then the plate the wheel goes on will hang from the slot. This will allow me some alignment whereas if I have the plate pivoting from the vertical side of the arm i do not think there would be any room for alignment. I am sure there area a dozen ways of doing it, just trying to figure out what would work best for me. I have actually never seen a 2x72 grinder in person, just on the net. I am using a compression spring for the tension. I read somewhere of problems getting enough tension with a tension spring. I am sure I will be doing quite a bit of learning on this project, and that is why I decided to do it!

Any suggestions would be welcomed for sure!
There is nothing like the real thing. Rob from Beaumont is a stand up guy and will answer questions if asked. Study the pics and you can kind of fill in the blank spots! Google KMG grinder and look at the site!
 
Trypper, the frame that the tensioning arm has not been welded to the frame yet, I just set it on there to take the pic as to the pieces I have made thus far. Duffy, I will post pics of my tracking setup, still a couple pieces to machine for it! Seionage, glad you like the pics, and I will for sure take more as I go along. Brian Ayres, I figure if it is heavy enough one would need a picker truck to steal it out of my garage. Dixie blades, I have looked at the beaumont site, wonderful looking grinders and accesories there!

I read alot about grinders the past year and the kmg style one seems to be very highly thought of. Thanks for the comments as well you guys, rarely I post on this site, but read it quite a bit. I had a bit of time so I thought I would give it a go making one.
 
I have never saw one in person but between the pics on the KMG site, the plans that have been posted above

http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf

you can pretty much glean all the information that you will need. The one thing to remember is every piece must be square to one another to get a good working unit, other wise you will have constant tracking problems!

When I mounted the tracking adjustment to the tensioning arm I got the slightest bit and I mean the slightest bit off, and that could have been due to a tap that was broken off when mounting the two pieces of the tracking bracket. That gave me a problem till I went back and licked that ole dog over. The tracking bar was in a bind!

The next problem was the tensioning arm itself. It was out of square too grinder and I could not get good tracking. It was so slight that I never saw it till I started trying to diagnose a tracking problem and realized looking down the grinder with the belt on it I could see I had a problem. I don't know how it got out but it was just enough I had to go back and cut it off, (I had welded it). When I remounted it I put it on a bolt from underneath and made sure it tracked before I welded it again. The biggest problem was that I could make it track but not on the center of the wheel, and I knew even if it ran OK like that I couldn't stand to look at it all the time. It was the tiny bit off multiplied by the distance from the tracking wheel back to the drive that made the major difference!

Perfectly square is what you are looking for. I did construction for years and it used to whizz me off when one of my guys would read a four foot level on a wall and say that is close enough. If you miss if by 1/8" in four foot, it becomes a 1/4" in 8 foot, the height of an average wall, and if that carries through to the 2nd story you are looking at a being out 3/4" at the top of the wall.

It's the same way with the grinder. You can compensate for a little but then you got to figure a lot of the need for tracking adjustment actually comes from the belt itself and how its put together. So if you get out of square on your build and a bad belt you can hang it up. You won't be able to get enough adjustment to make it track correctly!

Take your time and the answers will work themselves out. Specifications for parts can be looked up on the plans as well as a other places. Ask questions and don't be surprised if Rob is one of the guys to answer questions. He did it for me right here on this sight and he flat knew I was building a clone. After all he's got nothing to worry about you can't beat his price or his equipment!
 
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I have seen his prices, very reasonable indeed but unfortunately he does not ship to Canada. One nice thing about bolting the unit together is nothing gets pulled out of whack that welding does, once I get everything dialed in as close as I can get I can set the unit up on my mill and clean everything up perfect. The flat platen assembly I have a few concerns with.
 
I got a bit done today. I drilled out the bearing plates for the flange bearings, still have to mill some surfaces on it. I milled some pieces for my tracking assembly, tensioning arm, tensioning arm mount. I find the hot and cold rolled steel is not very square along the edges, so this will get a nice surface to work off of.

I also picked up a gas cylinder I am going to try for the tensioning.


Milling a piece for the tracking assembly

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Milling the top of the tensioning arm

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trueing up the tensioning arm bracket

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Reamed and drilled the flange bearing plates as a unit, keeps both sides perfectly lined up

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Made some more progress today, made two idler wheels and the tracking wheel. I used nitro rod for the idlers, very hard stuff!!

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I'm so jealous! I am saving my pennies for a mill a lathe and the time to use them!

Looking very robust! You might need an eye bolt threaded in the top to lift it!
 
Thanks Johnny Mac and Brian, it has been enjoyable making it so far, not really sure if I save much money making it myself. It will be nice using something I made myself.

I really enjoy reading about how you guys build your wonderful knives, so I thought I would share how I build my grinder.
 
I did a couple more things, first pic is tapping 1/2 inch holes in the 1.5 inch tool arm, for fun I put my big tap handle and a big tap just behind the half inch tap. Work up a sweat working with that thing!!

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Here is the plate for the idlers and the platen.

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