Steel capable of taking glass/metal contact?

Sep said:
Since I know of no steel harder than glass, I tend to go the "tough" route. It's easier to straighten a rolled edge than abrade enough material to remove chips. Get blades made of tougher steel like M4 or plain old 1095.
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:thumbup:

Removing enough material to "fix" a chipped blade is always an ugly prospect and is far more difficult than running a rolled edge along a smooth steel or strop to straighten it out.
 
No steel regardless of properties is going to have it's 0.5-4 micron thick edge come out a winner against a piece of glass. Whether it chips, folds or dents, it is still the loser.

I'd say pick the steel you can sharpen the easiest, or go serrated (:eek:).
 
Glass is just one of those materials that will just kill an edge.
 
Glass is hard, but brittle... imagine whacking a glass bottle with a knife. The knife wins, unscathed. Imagine grinding a blade into glass... the glass wins.

Impact speed has some kind of effect on the results.

In any case, tough wins. Rolled beats chipped.
 
Rob_Angerer said:
Glass is hard, but brittle... imagine whacking a glass bottle with a knife. The knife wins, unscathed. Imagine grinding a blade into glass... the glass wins.

Impact speed has some kind of effect on the results.

In any case, tough wins. Rolled beats chipped.
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So I take it the vote would be for something like CPM 3V?

I'm kind of curious as to how a monster carbide steel like S125V or one of those titanium blades with a carbide edge would hold up.

I get the feeling that high carbide steels is the future, and someone will be cutting glass with a carbide blade that can only be machined with diamond tools.
 
Rob_Angerer said:
Glass is hard, but brittle... imagine whacking a glass bottle with a knife. The knife wins, unscathed. Imagine grinding a blade into glass... the glass wins.

Impact speed has some kind of effect on the results.

In any case, tough wins. Rolled beats chipped.
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The knife won't be unscathed, the edge will have deformed, guaranteed unless you are using some crazy thick edge bevel like 60* or more inclusive
 
EricV said:
M4 if you're looking for a folder. ESEE's/Rowen's 1095 seems to take impacts much better than most steels and sharpens out easily. Another idea would be an Emerson, the chisel edge can take a harder beating and still stay sharp, needs a quick touch up at the end of the day, but then its right back. Seems the 154cm would rather slightly roll/deform than chip due to the slightly lower hardness than most companies.
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Very true... I recently (accidentally) smacked my Emerson Commander VERY hard into a ceramic counter top. No chips, but I did have a slight edge roll at the contact point. A half hour or so on my EdgePro and the mirror polish edge was as good as new... the ceramic tile didn't fair nearly as well.


/dusty
 
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