Steel issues

My “won’t name names” was a polite way of saying “you know who it is”. Kinda also tong in cheek so to speak. I am not advocating anything towards them at all. It speaks volumes about a company on how thy handle themselves after such issues and issues in the past. I wish them the best in the future. But on the flip side I’m trying to grow my little business into something and hiccups like this can throw a wrench in the works. Mostly because I care and I treat every blades as if it was my own. I feel responsible for each blade starting from the moment I open that package.

Soooooo when things go sideways because of some funky practices by another company or their vender; and that company calls into question my business, equipment and processes I kinda turn into that mother hen rounding up her chicks. The conversation was polite and thy had tons of advise for what “I” should do. The sad thing is thy lost a customer for life. My customer ended up buying new steel locally (1080) and rushed it to me. It showed up Friday afternoon and it’s shipping out This morning. He told me not to mess with the other blades (1075) any more and just send them back for grinding practice. If something I have done is to blame then I’m the first to stand up and take responsibility. Happiness of my customers comes first and for most. I figure if I let that take the wheel then most everything else will sort out in the end. Kind of the “build it and thy will come” attitude.

Here are the blades in question. 1080 on the left and 1075 on the right. Both alloys got the same 1600° normalization soak with an air cool. Then a 1500° soak and quenched in parks 50. I have a view port on my oven so I start my soak timer once the blades have reached the same color as the oven. The 1080 came out at 65.5-66.0rc and the 1075 was 32-38rc. You can instantly tell a blade has hardened just by the color of the steel and how the scale comes off. Also the spots I ground for testing used the same belt. You can see a second layer in the steel on the 1075. The surface of the steels are also much different from each other. Am I saying that it’s not 1075, no. But what ever condition it’s in was not treated by my standard process/temp. This has only happened a few other times and come to find out thy bought the steel from the shady seller on eBay. The results from those blades are almost identical to this 1075. That’s why I instantly contacted my customer and asked where he got it from.

Photo%20Sep%2009%2C%209%2013%2003%20AM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2009%2C%209%2014%2050%20AM.jpg


Photo%20Sep%2009%2C%209%2014%2017%20AM.jpg
 
I understand your frustration. I'm very careful about where I get my steel as I do want to do my own heat treating and I do not want to do extra steps that shouldn't be necessary on my non forged blades.
 
What ever happened to the new website they said they were doing months ago on that W2 thread that got locked. They said they were going to have a new website where you would know what heat/lot whatever you call it you are buying and the certs for it. Basically they said there new website would tell you exactly what you where buying and exactly how to heat treat it, with certs and all that good stuff. That was months ago and the site is still the same with the same issues.
 
Last edited:
The first explanation that comes to my mind is manganese. The "1075" isn't even 1075 because its Mn level is too low for the 1075 spec.

I think JT uses Parks50, which negates that issue. Parks will only lose one Rc point compared to brine with steels like Hitachi White.
 
Yep I use parks 50
 
Yall are freaking me out a little (But I'm happy you are). I've been buying all my steel (1084 & 1075) from NJSB. I always normalize twice before I quench in 120F canola oil @ 1500F. I haven't had an issue getting hard blades yet, but I also don't have a RC tester.

With the batch of 1075 I have I snapped a hardened blade for testing this weekend. Broke clean. Here is that video (actually two videos in that link... the one to the right shows the grains) : https://www.instagram.com/p/B2MGM6Dj9RD/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Video right after that on is after 2-2hr tempering cycles @ 410F

Edit: I do feel like there was more decarb on the blade that I had to grind though than normally on 1084.
 
Last edited:
Yall are freaking me out a little (But I'm happy you are). I've been buying all my steel (1084 & 1075) from NJSB. I always normalize twice before I quench in 120F canola oil @ 1500F. I haven't had an issue getting hard blades yet, but I also don't have a RC tester.

With the batch of 1075 I have I snapped a hardened blade for testing this weekend. Broke clean. Here is that video (actually two videos in that link... the one to the right shows the grains) : https://www.instagram.com/p/B2MGM6Dj9RD/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Video right after that on is after 2-2hr tempering cycles @ 410F

Edit: I do feel like there was more decarb on the blade that I had to grind though than normally on 1084.
What temp did you normalize at? I normally do 1600°-1650°. I have a view port in my oven so I watch the blades till thy are the same temp as the oven then give them around 5min or so then air cool. Any blades that are close to finished I shield the blades with argon for the normalization and heat treating cycles.
 
What temp did you normalize at? I normally do 1600°-1650°. I have a view port in my oven so I watch the blades till thy are the same temp as the oven then give them around 5min or so then air cool. Any blades that are close to finished I shield the blades with argon for the normalization and heat treating cycles.
Hey JT, I may have done this incorrectly, but I normalized them around 1550 F. I'm using the thermocouple / muffle pipe / magnet method... so I'm not going to be spot on.
 
Hey JT, I was working some more with the 1075 I got from NJSB. I noticed these lighter colored streaks towards the spine of my knife after etching. Not sure what caused this, but it's a first for me. I made sure to grind a good deal post HT in an attempt to get though any additional decarb.



What do you think is going on?
 
Usually streaks are alloy banding but there is not much in 1075 to band up. Could be areas with no alloying elements in it. Kinda a reverse to alloy banding. Is that etched?
 
Usually streaks are alloy banding but there is not much in 1075 to band up. Could be areas with no alloying elements in it. Kinda a reverse to alloy banding. Is that etched?

Yes sir, I etched it for around 9 min in Ferric Chloride (50/50 water).

These were 100% non-visible before etching. The surface finish was an even belt finish then a medium scotch.
 
That is called a stringer, could be any number of things. The higher quality the steel, the fewer they have.

Hoss

Thanks Hoss. When you say higher quality do you mean 1075 vs 1095, vs 5160 vs etc; OR do you mean higher quality within different batches of 1075?
 
I had a few customers send me a batches of 1084 that was bought from that same vender that was funky. It was blotchy, had hard and soft spots. Once I surface ground the blades thy stood out like a sore thumb. Thy read drastically different on the hardness tester. Thy where blotches towards the center of the bar not along the spin or edges.
 
I had a few customers send me a batches of 1084 that was bought from that same vender that was funky. It was blotchy, had hard and soft spots. Once I surface ground the blades thy stood out like a sore thumb. Thy read drastically different on the hardness tester. Thy where blotches towards the center of the bar not along the spin or edges.

Good to know... I know they hardened pretty well based on the video I sent yall. It's concerning though. I know we mentioned a few vendors in this thread... Who would you suggest for "bulk" orders? 48'' plus

I've had good luck with AKS in the past on other materials. Maybe I missed it but I didn't know they carried 1075 and 1084 (just looked at their site, glad to see they do). Sounds like they may be a safer choice now days.
 
I have never had any issues with the steel from AKS. Also I have heard good things about admiral steel, never personally done business with them.
 
But there are other issues concerning this anneal problem that I see as very odd and completely unnecessary. Let’s take the recent W2 for example. It needs to be normalized because of its “as supplied” condition. But 1900°F? Really? If W2 was heavily spheroidized, 1650°F is the normalizing temp for a 0.95% low alloy carbon steel. You shouldn’t even begin to get close to needing 1900°F to normalize W2. That to me just screams “problem”. Add that to the fact that the carbon content was tested and found seriously lacking, I refused to even try it.

Actually at our last guild meeting we discussed normalizing temps and I was advised to use the high first cycle (1900°-1950°) and then a second cycle of 1350° and then austenize. I haven't tried it, but I'm going to give it a shot on some 80crv2. I trust the gentleman that told me to change it up.
 
Back
Top