Steel Stamp

I got mine from buckeye engraving, got exactly what I wanted for I believe $75 for three letters in the shape that I wanted. Although I have since upgraded to the etcher. I find it easier to sand out a bad etch (I do not go all that deep) than sand out a double tap or getting the divot if you stamp too deep, bulge on the backside to sand away too.

When you build the etcher put the extra switch in for switching the DC voltage from 24v to 12v. Using 12v takes longer but does not burn the stencil as fast.

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/index.shtml

SWEET, I found the website where I got my schematic. The list of parts from radioshack and the schematic. You really do not "NEED" the $30 etching hand pad, I made my own soldering the wire to a scrap piece of CPM154 I had layin around with a piece of wood with a hole drilled down the center for the wire. I tape the felt around the wood to hold the felt on the contact. Oh yea I got the felt from the parachute riggers when I was deployed to an army unit last year. Point is you can go to a fabric store and get plain jane felt.

The page with the actual build tutorial is non existent, dead link.
 
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I bought my Henry Evers stamp and ruined it the first time I used it. I guess you cant hit hard steel. I spent another $130 for another one. Hard lessen learned. I use stencils over and over and over and over.
 
Bruce I did the very same thing. Back in the beginning I was working with 01 and struck the stamp with a hammer on the cold steel. The stamp mushroomed after a couple of strikes.

Got on the phone with Evers, and they sent me another. There was no maker, or internet in those days to discuss the problem with. I used intuition. I heated the tang of the knife prior to HT with a torch to make a spot cherry red where I wanted to stamp. Then struck it moderately with a hammer.

This technique has worked well and I am still doing it this way for over 20 years. The drawback is that you only get one chance at doing it right. Do it only on days when your hands are steady.
 
gixxer said:
I got mine from buckeye engraving, got exactly what I wanted for I believe $75 for three letters in the shape that I wanted. Although I have since upgraded to the etcher. I find it easier to sand out a bad etch (I do not go all that deep) than sand out a double tap or getting the divot if you stamp too deep, bulge on the backside to sand away too.

When you build the etcher put the extra switch in for switching the DC voltage from 24v to 12v. Using 12v takes longer but does not burn the stencil as fast.

http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/index.shtml

SWEET, I found the website where I got my schematic. The list of parts from radioshack and the schematic. You really do not "NEED" the $30 etching hand pad, I made my own soldering the wire to a scrap piece of CPM154 I had layin around with a piece of wood with a hole drilled down the center for the wire. I tape the felt around the wood to hold the felt on the contact. Oh yea I got the felt from the parachute riggers when I was deployed to an army unit last year. Point is you can go to a fabric store and get plain jane felt.

The page with the actual build tutorial is non existent, dead link.
Click to expand...

What gauge wire do I need and should I use a circuit board to assemble the electronics? Give me a call so you can give me some tips and such. I can follow the wiring schematic but just need some insider info so to speak. Thanks bro.

EDIT: Also how did you make your etching hand pad? Can you post a pic of it?
 
I work till 11pm, I will take pics tomorrow morning. A crcuit board would be a whole lot of bling, I just have a bundle of wires in my box all strategically bent to keep soldered ends from touching and shorting out. Actually as of late I have been using a Qtip instead of the whole felt pad.
 
If you want an actual stamp, the henry evers co in RI is one of the best (and you get what you pay for, seriously) For etching, i use a good professional power unit, and stencils from TUStech in darmouth mass.
 
gixxer said:
I work till 11pm, I will take pics tomorrow morning. A crcuit board would be a whole lot of bling, I just have a bundle of wires in my box all strategically bent to keep soldered ends from touching and shorting out. Actually as of late I have been using a Qtip instead of the whole felt pad.
Click to expand...

thats what I was thinking about using.
 
Here is a couple photos. As far as following the diagram, I would start from the top and work your way down. You can color code your wire and annotate it on your hard copy (I keep it taped to the top of the etcher itself so I do not have to go digging around if something screws up and I have to troubleshoot) so you can glance in at your wires and automatically know what you are looking at. I just got the plain jane primary wire in different colors from Depot. 20 or 18ga something like that.


etcherfront.jpg


handpad1.jpg


handstamp2.jpg
 
I just received my Henry A. Evers stamps today.... now I just need to make something!

IMG_0076-1.jpg
 
Other than a press... are there any simple jigs that people use to aid in getting a consistent stamp??? Some kind of guide or something??
 
birdog4 said:
Buckeye Engraving Sandusky Ohio
Click to expand...

These are good folks and where I get my stamps. They are actually in Kent Ohio about 2.5 hours East of Sandusky.

I fortunate because I only live about 20 miles from their shop, which I have seen and they have a first class operation.

I have brass and steel stamps from them. My 10 letter custom logo small stamp was around $125 IIRC.

I have been experimenting with using an IR airscribe for doing my marks, so far it looks promising just need to practice some more.
 
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