Recommendation? Steel Suggestion

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ToddW

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Jul 26, 2005
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I daily carry a Kershaw with a 14c28n blade material, I'm finding the material to be too hard and snapping for my utility work. I have around 5 moon-shape chunks out of the blade. I use this blade around the homestead so it's for cutting rope, wire, prying out staples, digging out nails in wood to get to them with a hammer, and just general utility usage. I've had it since 2013 approx. so I've gotten a lot of life out of it.

Holding a razor sharp edge isn't as important to me as not breaking / chipping.

What kind of steel should I be looking for that fits my general utility need?

I'm looking for a folding knife. I'm not stuck on '1' brand. Ideally $150 or less since it will be 'abused' by most standards :)


 
Sounds like you need more of a multi-tool rather than a knife. Maybe look into a leatherman or something. Prying is not really something a folding knife is made for.

Maybe look for a multi-tool that has pliers/wire cutters, I feel that would be more helpful for you.
 
If you're looking for a knife to do what your doing, 3v steel may suit you. Or go for a 8cr13mov or aus 8. They are softer steels and shouldn't chip as easily but will dull fast
 
you should NOT use a knife for some of those tasks.

google EDC prybar http://bfy.tw/C7y8

thats what you need. keep it on your key chain or clip it to your pocket if its got a clip.

a good cheap knife for grunt work is the Ontario rat 1 in D2 steel. its around $40 be careful of fakes, buy from somewhere reputable or just know the differences.
D2 is a good steel if done right. it will have better edge retention than the kershaw, but not as stainless as the kershaw, but not many people have issues with rust on them. some people say D2 is chippy, ive not experienced this, i think that can be the case depending on the heat treat, angle of the grind and blade geometry.


if you want to go up from that try a benchmade HK line in D2 steel. proven in hard use.
 
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Get a leatherman multitool, or a Victorinox tinker .
The multitool is a tool first and happens to have a knife blade, while the vic tinker is a knife first and just happens to have some tools attached to it ( it's only 20$ BTW )
 
I would also say to get an Widgy Bar from countrycomm, and a Manix 2 in Cruwear.

Will give you a tough semi-stainless tool steel with high toughness, and a prybar for anything that needs prying while staying light.

If you need something stronger or with more leverage, get a cheap cats paw.
 
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420j...or any very soft steel that can deform and not break as easily.
 
Buck 110 in a sheath on your belt
*420hc is pretty tough for a stainless.

Paired with a leatherman wingman for pliers, wire cutting, and prying.

Well under budget.

With a leatherman though to eat up the abusive tasks, you can afford to go a step above 420hc and get sometjing like a Cold Steel in cts-xhp. Cuts great, holds an edge quite well, and is still respectfully tough.
Older Cold Steel offerings use aus8 if you can find them, tougher, but loses edge faster.

I use a Kizlyar Supreme Ute for more heavy tasks; 440c, with a stout blade profile, and a pry tool built into the handle to help save the blade tip from unnecessary prying.

440 series is still respectfully tough for a stainless as well, as are 5cr, 7cr, 8cr, and 9cr Chinese steels, (the lower the 1st number, the tougher it will be, but also less carbon content and the less edge holding as a result), and on some higher end stuff 154cm is pretty tough too.
 
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Get a benchmade ritter griptilian i have done all those things and more with mine. Maybe not what they were designed for but it works in a pinch.

Edit to add a budget option: an ontario rat 1 in d2
 
I agree with the other replies, a Victorinox Tinker or multi tool would be a better option for your needs rather than a knife. I imagine that prying staples and digging for nails would eventually damage any blade steel. Some steels will hold up longer, but those tasks aren't what a knife blade was designed for. To answer your question, any of the CPM steels would be a step up from 14c28n if you prefer to use a knife. The Benchmade Adamas or Contego would be a good choice. The blade of the Adamas isn't a powder steel, but thick D2 tool steel, D2 is some tough stuff. The Contego blade is CPM M4, and it would probably take a lot of punishment. Both are slightly above your price range though.
 
Another thing to keep in mind is the final heat treat of the blade will factor in to a degree towards toughness more then the steel itself is some cases.
440c for example will be much tougher if hardened to just 57rc but will hold and edge much better at 59rc.

And that's not to say you won't still damage your edges on a "tough" knife if your doing things with it that aren't intended for a knife, your edge will just roll and bend before it chips.

Someone said in another thread, "Some people buy a hammer, and they soon realize that it's the worst screwdriver they've ever owned."
A knife is a cutting tool, if you use it for anything other the cutting, regardless of steel type or price, and it breaks, then that's on you not the knife or the steel...
 
Any knife in any steel that is sharp enough to cut and slice will give you the same problems you are currently seeing. You are already using one of the better stainless steels for your purposes and it has failed. So will all others unless thickened to not knife dimensions.

What made you think the knife is the right tool for prying or wire cutting?
 
The Mastiff said:
.

What made you think the knife is the right tool for prying or wire cutting?
Click to expand...

This.

The problems you are experiencing are a result of you not using the correct tool for the job and have nothing to do with the steel your blade is made from. I'll echo the suggestions of others that you should get a decent multitool. I find the Swisstool to be my favorite currently produced one. My all time favorite was the American made Schrade Tough Tool, but the ones produced since Taylor bought Schrade are just awful.
 
What in taking away from the ops post is he is wanting a 1 handed operating knife (which most all kershaws do). And that he just wants one tool, given that he probably knows multitools exist and he did not ask about them. I'm also getting the vibe he's ok with wearing out a knife and replacing it and that he would prefer to go a longer period of time without doing so.

With those criteria I would take a look at a bench made adamas, non assisted would be at the upper tier but you probably wouldn't break it doing what you describe. Also I would echo aus8 cold steels in the recon or voyager lines or a voyager in bd1 if you want to save on price.

Edit: since it's a homestead situation a fixed blade would also be pretty appropriate and an esee 4 is pretty bomb proof for the size.
 
Balls Deep said:
What in taking away from the ops post is he is wanting a 1 handed operating knife (which most all kershaws do). And that he just wants one tool, given that he probably knows multitools exist and he did not ask about them. I'm also getting the vibe he's ok with wearing out a knife and replacing it and that he would prefer to go a longer period of time without doing so.

With those criteria I would take a look at a bench made adamas, non assisted would be at the upper tier but you probably wouldn't break it doing what you describe. Also I would echo aus8 cold steels in the recon or voyager lines or a voyager in bd1 if you want to save on price.

Edit: since it's a homestead situation a fixed blade would also be pretty appropriate and an esee 4 is pretty bomb proof for the size.
Click to expand...


Agreed and the adamas is a great knife as well ass the esee the esee 5 is pretty much a prybar with an edge
 
What about the Browning Black Label Trip Wire?
  • Highly-modified spear point blade.
  • N690Co stainless steel blade.
  • False edge and chopping grind on spine.
  • Partially serrated edge
  • Black oxide finish.
  • Ribbed G-10 grip scales (handle).
  • Built-in 3-position wire cutting system.
  • Nylon sheath with MOLLE compatible straps that attach to web gear or belt.
  • Packaged in a Black Label box.

I have handled one, and it is a bit bulky and Very heavy, but it does fit all but one of the OPs criteria (the folding knife one).
 
Definitely like the fixed blade option.
Definitely a good thing to have around the homestead, and ESEE's guaruntee on their 1095 stuff is worth the money you'll spend on replacing broken folders.

An ESEE 3 or 4
+ a Buck 110 and a Leatherman wingman;
Still on budget, 3 pieces to cover all your knife needs and more.
(All 3 with legit good warranties).
 
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If a fixed blade is ok, I would suggest a Becker BK3. Add on the micarta slabs too, not needed, but a nice option.

They used that knife to dismantle a Dodge Omni (car) and the only thing that broke decent part of the knife was the pin that the car door secures to.
They tried to pry that out of the body/frame of the car...
 
Nothing wrong with OP's knife use, been doing it all my life.
My suggestion for the most presently affordable and available steel to handle this is cpm-m4.
 
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