Steelophiles-what's so important about the type of steel?

jideta

jideta

Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
2,099
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
 
Blame the manufacturers, unless you’re buying budget knives you’re probably getting S30V or above.
Sure I could get by with 1095 and AUS8, but I like using/sharpening the higher end steels. Sharpening started as a challenge, but now it’s enjoyable.
 
It's human nature to chase the latest and the greatest.

I've found with use that I don't need to "chase" steels. I have some favorites like M4 that tick all the boxes and in general I'll veer towards a less stainless tool steel or carbon steel for cutting performance. But I have all sorts of knives in steels from GEC or Saks in less fancy materials to peak super steels in stainless or tool and I like them all.
 
It’s more about KNOWING you have the best, and that you can race the engine if you had to.

It’s like the difference between a Toyota Camry and a Ferrari... sure, both get you from point “A” to point “B” (cutting things), but sometimes you want to floor the gas in the Ferrari when you’re coming off the on-ramp in a Ferrari (annihilating 50 cardboard boxes with S110V).
Once you’ve carried s110v or s90v for a few years, 154cm and s30v are a noticeable step down in edge retention.
For some, like me, this can be frustrating when you’re trying to get some serious cutting done. For others? Maybe it isn’t a big deal.

Too many factors at play here... but I guess to sum it up it’s all about confidence and getting work done without having to go back to the stones as frequently.
 
For me I like how certain steels feel when used if that makes sense. I enjoy the whole range though. One of my most used knives for simple stuff is just the "surgical steel" Christy knife I picked up but on the other side of the spectrum I love the kind of edge my 20CV Bareknuckle takes. That steel is just special for the edge so far. I am in the process of stepping back to more budget steels though because I started chasing more and more expensive knives that don't actually impact my life in any major way.
 
jideta said:
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
Click to expand...

Well maybe YOU don't plan on re-entering Earth's atmosphere with a knife in your pocket...

But don't dis' on those of us who do.

Oh, and it's pretty cool to get your EDC laser sharp and not have to touch it again for... literally... months.
 
jideta said:
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
Click to expand...



Same thing happened to me. I'd pass on an otherwise great knife because it had lowly VG-10 or 154CM rather than the then-new S-30V. I think it was when I started getting into traditional knives that it started to matter less to me. As you know, most Case knives have rather soft stainless or soft carbon steel. Old Schrades had 1095, Camillus had their 0170-6 and 0170-6C, etc. GECs are now the benchmark for quality traditional knives and they use 1095 (and used some O-1 for some). Then after having mixed results with maintaining my S-30V knives, frustration with D-2 and Benchmade's overly hard and slightly brittle 440C, I began to appreciate the ease of sharpening "lesser" steels. VG-10, in particular, I've always been able to get screaming sharp with ease using the equipment and skills I possessed at the time. It remains one of my favorite steels in a daily user for this very reason. On the other end of the spectrum, I'm wary of certain high-hardness steels with huge hard carbides because I'm not certain I'd be able to sharpen them properly.

That said, it still matters to me. It just doesn't matter as much as it did, and I'm more likely to take other factors into account and less likely to turn my nose up at a particular knife simply because it doesn't have the best flavor of the month steel. I only have one Spyderco sprint run knife (just got it, a Calypso Jr in Super Blue) because it's a knife I like in a steel I wanted. I don't have 27 Paramilitary 2s in 27 different steels. I like my CF/CPM-154 Kershaw Leek because I can get it sharp without much trouble and it lasts as long (longer, really) as I need it to. I probably wouldn't get any enjoyment out of it if it had S-110V and I was unable to sharpen it on my own with the equipment and skills that I have.
 
jideta said:
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
Click to expand...

A+ on that one.

We love our knives, and we gotta talk about something. Trying to discern the nuances between this and that steel is part of the fun for some people. But for me its largely an exercise in futility. I don't really care that much about steel and geometry. As the mantra goes, I like a steel to hold a decent edge and be reasonably easy to sharpen. Every steel from 8Cr13MoV to D2 does exactly that to varying degrees. Crappy steel that does not hold an edge for 5 minutes is no good. But all modern steels on knives from $20 Kershaws and on up perform well, and I just don't have the energy to debate them. A guy cutting shingles all day needs a blade that works (prolly a utility knife with replaceable carbide blades). But the guy who pays $500 for a Sebenza to open one Amazon package a day? Not so much. That guy is just blowing hot air when he talks about steel. He's talking about it because its fun to talk about the toys we love. We gotta talk about something or we wouldn't be here.
 
A knife is a cutting tool. If all you are worried about is cutting stuff, then design, geometry, and heat treatment are more important than the steel. Most spring steels, and almost any good tool steel, will make a decent knife. Steels designed specifically for cutting tools, and/or cutlery, usually make the best knives. Steel choice becomes a factor when what you are cutting, and how you are cutting, aren't cutting it. You might need a more wear resistant steel. Or a stainless that takes a better edge. Probably 90% of knife users never give a thought to what steel is in their knife. For the rest of us? It's nice having choices.
 
I think a lot of it is bragging rights. People want the new hotness. Lol Plus they have to justify that expensive sharpening system. I dont really think it matters.
 
jideta said:
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
Click to expand...

https://www.bladehq.com/cat--Best-Knife-Steel-Guide--3368
 
I just like the designs. Steel is secondary because, honestly, I am fine with 8cr13mov! Easy to sharpen, gets stupid sharp, and can last all day depending. Sure, I like my m390/20cv, m4, 420hc... But if it works I'm fine with it.
 
I can "make do" with S30V and sharpen it every couple of weeks.

Or I can spend a few dollars more and get Maxamet, and sharpen it every couple of years.

I don't "enjoy" sharpenning, I do it to keep mt edges keen. So I will buy the steel that requires the least maintenance.
 
Do you simply buy knives to use, do you buy knives because you love knives, or both? Folks that view knives as a simple cutting tool are less likely to shell out more money than necessary for a knife with a simple blade steel that will get the job done. However, folks like many members on this forum, including myself, are more than willing to pay a premium price for a knife with a super steel blade whether we plan to use it or not.
 
I am guilty of needing the latest and greatest steel. I seem to have “evolved” into it. However, I do still enjoy a good quality, well made “cheapie”.
But... there is something about putting an upper end 20cv blade in your pocket when I get ready for work!! :rolleyes:
 
After using SK-5, 52100, D2 and CPM-3V I would say what SK-5 alone is basically all I need, 52100 is really nice, D2 has good edge holding but is hard to get sharp, CPM-3V takes finer edge easier than D2 and also holds the edge longer. I also know CPM-3V is the toughest of these.
 
Big Chris Knives ruined it for me. Never gave the steel a second thought until I started buying knives from Big Chris. I’ve got Z-Wear, 10V, 4V, M4, XHP, 3V, S110V, S125V knives from him. What I’ve learned from Chris is that steels that will support a thin edge will cut longer even if they’re dull. It doesn’t take much effort to get one back to scary sharp. So, with that in mind, when I see a folder in one of those steels, I’ll chase after it.
IMO, the knife world is saturated with M390 and it’s variants along with S35VN, S30V that an offering in a different steel is appealing to me. Not that there’s anything wrong with those steels and for the most part serve me well, I just like the choices that are becoming available. I just got a Bareknuckle in M390, but that’s not why I bought the knife. The carbon fiber handles, black wash finish, is what attracted me to buying one.
 
jideta said:
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
Click to expand...

Why worry about someone else's concern?

Since you seem so worked up by it though, I'll give you my reasoning:

First, I don't subscribe to the usual hierarchy of steels. Not that I don't believe the science, I just keep everything to two categories: steels I value and steels I don't.

Steels that I don't value will still function fine and don't necessarily detract from a knife, but they don't add any value in my eyes. D2, s35vn, s30v, vg10, m390 with Benchmade's HT, cpm-154, etc. are all the same to me. They're fine.

Steels that I value do significantly add to a knife's attractiveness and consequently my likelihood of purchase. ZDP-189 is at the top of that list. It's easy to sharpen (with the right equipment), takes a beautiful edge and I can usually get away with sharpening them once a year, simply maintaining it with a strop.

There's of course a third category I neglected to mention above: trash. The 3cr stuff that you find at gas stations and in holiday gift sets.
 
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