Steelophiles-what's so important about the type of steel?

Ron Athay said:
I am 73 years old. I spent the 60' thru the 90's hunting and skinning deer with some unknown steel knives. I usually had to sharpen them several times to finish. Then I started collecting knives. My brother in law shot an Elk and I loaned him my D2 knife. When he finished it was still sharp. I have D2, 3V, S30v, 5160, etc. knives because they do do their job better than the old unknown steels. As a kid I was very unhappy when my Buck Special broke in half. Now I carry a 3V knife and do not worry about it breaking. I know the difference. 1095 is fine if you want to spend your time sharpening your knife. I want my knife to stay sharp and not break. That is why I collect the "super" steels.
Ron Athay
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Now this makes sense.
 
K-Lastima said:
So how can we be sure were getting what the manufacturer is stating it to be.
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The average user probably can't or won't notice. With that being said, there are a bevy of DIY testers across the internet doing comparative cut tests, rust tests, etc and the cost benefit ratio of producing a knife stamped as M390 but actually being AUS8 is such that doing so might get you a short monetary gain, but when found out (and everyone eventually is) your brand has some tarnish and trust issues within the community. We even have some real world examples such as with CRKT in the last few years releasing an upgraded hootenany that was rusting far too quickly for the stated steel. They were forced to conduct full refunds to customers if im not mistaken and their brand took a significant hit. At least with the more enthusiastic knife collectors and users for which an upgraded steel blade like that was aimed at anyways.
 
Knowing about steel is way less important than dealing with reputable manufacturers. Then there is knowledge vs. implementation. What works on paper is very different than the outcome When pressed into reality given near infinite variables. But the variables can be predicted for different arrays of use. For instance a steel that is perfectly suited for a knowledgeable chef will be a disastrous choice for a typical household kitchen knife. The chef will be careful to use the knife appropriately where the typical bozo will cut against a stoneware plate, ruin the edge and never be able to sharpen it.
 
Having a variety is always good.

I have found CPM-3V in a full flat grind to be an exceptional hunting knife. I can run it through several animals (even when contacting bone) and it remains at a high sharpness. 420hc will dull halfway through and need touched up. Not a big deal, but I appreciate the increase in performance.

I like having a degree of control when selecting a knife and it’s corresponding properties to put it to work.
 
jideta said:
I ain't knocking it but I don't get it.
It's like a Ferrari that you only drive in the city at 35mph.
I think in other hobbies, fishing comes to mind, eventually your tricked out boron/carbon fibre pole with titanium reel will see some real action and be put to the test. Or at least you hope to do so.
Although you drive your Ferrari in the city, once in a while you take it to the track and open it up.
You buy that race .45 and go against the clock.
When you go super in other hobbies it's usually for performance gains that can be justified somehow.
What do you do with your super steel blade?

I couldn't tell you what my knives are made out of unless they say so right there on the blade, which is where this all started.
One of my knives is labeled ELMAX and I started to wonder, really, what good does that knowledge do me?
Does it give me more confidence in the blade? Or...
Anyways, more power to you folks that keep track of that kind of thing.
Just wanted to know where you guys are coming from.
Kinda amazes me what some of you know.
I guess I'm at the point where there are more important things about a knife than the type of steel it's made of.

This just occured to me: it's a marketing thing invented by the manufacturers.
I mean are there other applications for these new knife steels? Are they used for other things?
Is it a trickle down thing or are some of these steels marketed directly to knife makers and users?
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You paint with a very broad brush.

You decide this is marketing hype yet you don't even understand the steels. How do you reconcile this?

Many of these steels, when done properly and in the appropriate knife design, yield significant benefits to the end user. The edge retention of S90V over say 420HC is massive. H1 and LC200N are fantastic water-related knives. High speed tool steels are tough as nails and have tremendous edge retention. BD1N is an awesome steel that manages to blend decent hardness with good edge retention but good sharpening responsiveness.

I would encourage you to educate yourself on as many steels as you can. There can be a lot of overlap but you may find steels that are attractive to you for certain applications.

I have a bunch of knives in simple steels and they do fine for light duty EDC but in no way does that lessen the knives I have in all the other steels I have.

And if people want to chase steels just to experiment or just cuz, then so be it.

I think if you're passing over knives you like just because of the steel, then unless you have a very specific reason, that is probably unfortunate. I also think that people not buying knives because of certain steel names but not understanding those steels is unfortunate.

Now... Any such discussion is remiss without some @DeadboxHero action...





 
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Ben Dover said:
I can "make do" with S30V and sharpen it every couple of weeks.

Or I can spend a few dollars more and get Maxamet, and sharpen it every couple of years.

I don't "enjoy" sharpenning, I do it to keep mt edges keen. So I will buy the steel that requires the least maintenance.
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maxamet is just too extreme for me - I've found that cpm-m4 is the goldilocks for me, (for overall high use edc) crazy high edge retention and much tougher

I'm sure it helps that the spyderco ht is really dialed in, that is the other half of the magic

(and it's still amazing to see how good edge holding on 'old' s30v really can be - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/i-tested-the-edge-retention-of-48-steels.1726279/ )
 
Having been into knives since I was a boy of 8 or 10, even as a teenager I grew to appreciate a knife that could hold an edge. Started out with hardware store knives (Aikenheads, anyone?), Swiss Army, Big Swede by Normark, Buck 110, then Gerbor Gator, Puma 470 in university.

I've gotten more into knives in the last few years (as a life long camper, I have never been "out" of knives), and it has been a lot of fun to discover some of the newer steels. I like to sharpen, and I like knives that hold a keen edge for some time.

I've enjoyed learning about the advances in knife steels, and as a woodworker I've seen a corresponding increase in better steels in those tools also.

Some favourites for sharpening: M4, CTS-XHP, ZDP-189, S35VN, CTS-204P/M390, PS27. As an engineering type, it's fascinating to see how the chemical make-up of the steel produces fine variations in the edges produced.

Least favourite: SV110

Still to (hopefully) try: CPM-154, Elmax, Cruwear, 3V

My favourites for EDC: M390, S35VN
 
Steels function a little differently depending on how the knife is designed and what it is used for. If you don't use them you they all look very similar.

My edc for work around the home and shop has an M4 steel (not corrosion resistant but cuts like a Jedi light sword), an original Spyderco Gayle Bradley. My Spyderco USN Catcherman filet knife has H1 steel (totally corrosion resistant but about as perfect as you can get in a salt water environment.) and works great on the Rainbows and Browns during trout season.


 
jideta said:
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
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I am well aware it isn’t a space shuttle (which is mostly not made from steel). Your ignorance on this point is very telling.

better steel will make it through the day/week/camping trip without becoming too dull to use. It sounds like you would be fine with a butter knife. You do you, I’ll use my 3V/S30v/LC200n/M4 etc.
 
Steel type really doesn't mean squat to me. Before I really got into knives, I carried a Spyderco with 8cr13mov for 10 years, and I was none the wiser.

Sure, I'll always check to see what steel the blade is made of before I buy, but it really doesn't affect my purchase.
 
jideta said:
I guess I use to keep track of that kind of thing, 440c, S35, M390 etc.
Now, as long as it holds an edge and doesn't self destruct it seems okay to me.
D2, 1095, all good to go.
So what exactly are you steelophiles doing with your blades that you need absolute top performance from them? How long and what kinds corrosive liquids are you exposing them to to see how long they last? How much and what kinds of material are you cutting that you can objectively tell a difference? How long have you been and just how many logs have you chopped in the wild before a knife failure?
Seems to me that once you get to a certain level of performance, it's all the same for the average joe knife user.
Can anyone really evaluate and describe the difference?
Is it just bragging rights?
Why do you make the effort to track down a particular type of steel? I suppose it's cool to know these kinds of things, especially if you are dedicated to this hobby.
Still, the way some of you folks reel off steel types off the top of yer heads!
Seriously? This is not a load bearing component that need to withstand XX tons of lateral pressure at zero gravity.
It's freakin knife.
You are not making a space shuttle.
Why?
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Your attitude towards people who enjoy different steels comes across as condescending and superior. This is a knife website. Of course nobody needs super steels. Some people like them, that's all. I don't want to eat the same meal everyday, even though I could survive; the same goes with steel. I don't come in contact with highly corrosive environments, but I like LC200N because I don't have to worry about corrosion and I appreciate the technology that developed it. I don't NEED to listen to music, but I enjoy doing so. It's all pretty simple, and I think fairly obvious. To continue with your line of comparison, it's not rocket science. If it makes you feel better to pay no attention to steel then good for you.
 
Trying new steels is half the fun, the other half being new and interesting designs. Lately I've been tending to tool steels like M4 and 3V, but I appreciate most from Buck's 420HC to S110V.
 
For one thing I don’t have to validate my reasons why I want and need a super steel knife to someone who doesn’t understand why and makes light of it.

Secondly if you don’t work in a harsh environment or with tough abrasive materials then you wouldn’t have a clue why or need for a better steel that keeps an edge in tough demanding type of use. If you don’t understand the reason why then don’t try to tell me or anyone else they don’t have a need for something better.
 
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Well......I think the shape of blade and what your going to be using the knife to do is the best guide on the type of steel.
Some blade shapes will be more prone to chip or break and some use will dull a knife faster.
Have a few fancy steels although you can't beat the older alloys like D2 for an EDC work knife.
 
BillZee said:
Well......I think the shape of blade and what your going to be using the knife to do is the best guide on the type of steel.
Some blade shapes will be more prone to chip or break and some use will dull a knife faster.
Have a few fancy steels although you can't beat the older alloys like D2 for an EDC work knife.
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D2 is a good general purpose steel but it has a low resistance to corrosion. If you work around corrosive materials or substance a true stainless steel with higher corrosive resistance is more suitable. There’s a reason why there are different steels.
 
I'm still rocking mostly VG10, CTS XHP, D2, 14C28, and S30V.

I own no M4, Cruwear, Vanax, S90, S110, 3V, Nitro V, or M390. I know I left other steels out.

Many are out of my price range (M4 comes to mind) and I don't need the characteristics they offer.

I am on the hunt for an Endura in ZDP 189 for my Endura collection and to try the steel.

Am I a steel snob? Kinda. I'm past the gas station knife phase. Thankfully, a good 14C28 or AUS8 steel (still respectable imo) can be had for $20+.
 
A little oil and regular use will keep rust away.
Also I would prefer to deal with rust then an edge that dulls.
Finally.....I buy a knife use it till it wears out.....then go buy another one.
 
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