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- Jul 16, 2012
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- 4,177
Very nice! Thanks for the idea and tips on the stone washing process.
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Stonewashed Cryo
- Thread starter Maprik
- Start date
- Joined
- May 17, 2012
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- 2,779
THAT looks fantastic!!! Nice work!
So after seeing how you stonewashed your Cryo, I gave stone washing a shot with my Crkt Drifter.
- Joined
- May 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,779
Check the 10th post down on Page 2 for instructions I learned from SticktoDrum.
Hi MAPRIK, first of all let me tell you that your cryo looks awesome, no kidding! I just wish I found this post earlier... I have a cryo myself and love it as well, and I heard about the home stonewash/acid wash (PCB Etchant) and had to give it a try. I hurried through the whole process (veary eager to see the end result) and although I love the way it turned out (cosmetics) I think I damaged the little ball bearing on the frame lock because now I hear/feel it scratch (no function loss, just not as smooth as before).
I acid washed/stonewashed the blade as well as the scales and now that I have everything in place my blade has a slight blade play up/down, absolutely solid on side to side. So I was wondering if you have any ideas on how to fix this, if its even possible.
One more thing, during the acid wash process I used a harsh plastic brush to help take off the TiNi coating on the blade and scales (I used the brush as soon as I took it out of the etchant solution) and now the brush strokes are very evident, specially on my blade, what grade sandpaper would you suggest I use to "reset" it and make those marks less visible, or hopefully get rid of them.
Thanks for your quick response, once again, I love the way your cryo turned out and I regret even more not stumbling into this thread before... oh well
I acid washed/stonewashed the blade as well as the scales and now that I have everything in place my blade has a slight blade play up/down, absolutely solid on side to side. So I was wondering if you have any ideas on how to fix this, if its even possible.
One more thing, during the acid wash process I used a harsh plastic brush to help take off the TiNi coating on the blade and scales (I used the brush as soon as I took it out of the etchant solution) and now the brush strokes are very evident, specially on my blade, what grade sandpaper would you suggest I use to "reset" it and make those marks less visible, or hopefully get rid of them.
Thanks for your quick response, once again, I love the way your cryo turned out and I regret even more not stumbling into this thread before... oh well
- Joined
- May 17, 2012
- Messages
- 2,779
If you have blade play you might have somehow damaged the lockface slightly when you stonewashed the handles. Did you stonewash the handle with the lockface exposed? I either attach the handle to a block of wood or tumble the handles attached to each other so the lock face is protected.
To smooth your blade you are going to have to sand it down. I don't know how deep your scratches are but I'd start with 100 grit and just start working your way up. 200, 300, 400, etc. I removed the TiNi coating by sanding and then I stonewashed the blade. Then I removed the thumbstuds and filled the hole with epoxy/ultra green V10 glow powder....
To smooth your blade you are going to have to sand it down. I don't know how deep your scratches are but I'd start with 100 grit and just start working your way up. 200, 300, 400, etc. I removed the TiNi coating by sanding and then I stonewashed the blade. Then I removed the thumbstuds and filled the hole with epoxy/ultra green V10 glow powder....
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2011
- Messages
- 21
hahaha when I first started researching how to stone wash I didn't quite understand what the dryer part was for, I thought it was some process at the end that finalized the finish...needless to say I did it by hand, but I'm excited to use the dryer now that I realize it's just an automatic shaker 
ak1 by Vollertron10, on Flickr
ak1 by Vollertron10, on Flickr