Stout small fixed blades.

Okay... those TOPS knives look pretty promising. They're definitely something to think about.

Bquinlan: I do "hear" what you're "saying." I'm not looking for a sharpened prybar; if I was, I'd go buy a crowbar and put an edge on it. I'm looking for a knife that will work for EDC chores (which don't include prying) that could act like a prybar if necessary.

That said, I'm sure Dozier's blades could -- but it's just not worth it, to me, to throw down the extra cash (even his basic model, before "adjustments," is $25 more -- and I'm sure I'd raise the price a fair bit) for a blade that is only marginally better than the one I had in mind originally.

That said... I DID stumble across the Dozier Razorback, here:
http://www.knifeart.com/knifeart/raznecknif.html

If any of you know the thickness of the stock (nobody EVER lists it) on that, I'd love to know. I might have to go ahead and get ahold of one, if I can, along with the blade I decide on because of this thread... just because it's such a good looking knife.

Anyone have any experience with this model?
 
Take a look at Garrett Wade

Check out those ebony handled marking knives. They're short enough and sharp enough. The double bevel, @ $19, might be worth a looksee. I carry a similar Japanese model, use it a lot woodworking. Nice knife for my purposes. If you need to pry on stuff, carry their Cats paw
 
I don't intend to sound trite, but there are many custom makers that can make a knife from your specs or work with you to get it close as possible. Get the steel you want, draw up a bladeshape and scan it or use a generic paint program and make a bitmap image of the blade dimensions and ask on the Shop Talk forum.

I'm sure the makers there can get you something in your pricerange.
 
If you're short on money, the CRKT F4 or the MDP Kiss series could fit most of your requirements. I know for sure the F4 isn't 3.5", but only 3" or so. Still it's quite handy for EDC.
I'm sure many others' suggestion can probably fit your requirements, but this is what I know. :p
 
Just ck'd my small Blackjack. A hair under 3". Nice, wide, blade with lots of belly in 52100. Hard to beat at $80.

GronK
 
Originally posted by GronK
Just ck'd my small Blackjack. A hair under 3". Nice, wide, blade with lots of belly in 52100. Hard to beat at $80.

GronK
Click to expand...

Feel like measuring the thickness of the blade for me, Gronk? If you've still got the Blackjack and the ruler out?
 
JamesA:
"Feel like measuring the thickness of the blade for me, Gronk? If you've still got the Blackjack and the ruler out?"

No problem. 3/16 with a distal taper beginning about 3/4" from the single guard. This is a for reals Blackjack, with convex edge and all.
 
Great, here I am selling off a bunch of my stuff and now I sit drooling over the Dozier Razorback and the baby Blackjack.....

Anybody played with one of these Razorbacks yet? Looks very very cool. Kinda like a a scaled down version of Spyderco's Keating folder.
 
simply makes some AMAZINGLY durable knives. the street scalpel i have had for a while is by FAR the toughest piece of steel _I_ have. i really like the design of the UTE2 as well. i will probably get one soon for many of the same reasons you listed as those you ahd for wanting a small fixed blade. i also just wanna throw in my $.02 for my absolute favorite fixed blade (next to my Perrin street surgeon) the Camillus Mini Talon. ZERO corrosion, cuts like nothing else, SUPER comfortable in the hand. just not as thick as what you may want. but as a KNIFE, there is no small knife that is better imho.
 
To each his or her own , but am I missing something . What could one possibly pry with a 2.5" blade . As stated earlier I don't won't to sound trite or condesending . I think you would do just fine with most any blade suggested so far . In the real world unless you just abuse one an 1/8" , 5/32" or so knife will last a life time . I carry a fixed blade everyday and use it , I have yet to bend or break a good blade . If you really want to have a knife that won't break contact a custom maker who forges ( I know here we go again , forge against stock removal ) . A good knife does not come cheap . My vote so far is Dozier , it may cost a little more now but when all the cheap crap is broken it will still be going . As far as forge contact Bill Buxton , or Little Hen Knives , they are both great folks and have super turn around times . This may not help but it is just my opinion . Good luck and keep'm sharp .;)
 
Originally posted by JERRY SHIPMAN
What could one possibly pry with a 2.5" blade
Click to expand...

I'll be doing an "annual" on a '42 T-6 aircraft next weekend. Short, sharp, and stout does the job for removing the valve covers (18!) to ck and adjust. I got by with my Spyderco Blackhawk on the last one I did, but I'll have a TOPS CAT 203 on my hip this time. Sharpenned pry bar for prying and nice sharp straight edge for scraping off old gasket. And no extra blade length to get in the way!
 
Gronk,

I here what you are saying , but a valve cover isn't what I would call prying . There are many good knives out today I just feel people think they will use a knife allot harder than it will ever be . A cheap $5.99 knife at the store can take an amazing amount of abuse as performed many times by my 7 year old son . I don't want to get into a debate over simple issues , as I said , to each his or her own but a knife will see more cutting than prying . If you really want a sharp do it all pry bar buy a Strider . That is not a slam , they are hell for stout and super sharp to boot .

Jerry
 
Originally posted by JERRY SHIPMAN
Gronk,

I here what you are saying , but a valve cover isn't what I would call prying . There are many good knives out today I just feel people think they will use a knife allot harder than it will ever be .
Click to expand...

As I expressed earlier: if I use this knife for anything more "abusive" than opening mail, I'd be surprised. I don't think I'm going to use it hard. I'd just like to know that if I needed to, I could. I've never heard anyone having problems because the blade they had on them was too strong; I have heard problems because the blade wasn't strong enough.

A cheap $5.99 knife at the store can take an amazing amount of abuse as performed many times by my 7 year old son . I don't want to get into a debate over simple issues , as I said , to each his or her own but a knife will see more cutting than prying .

Click to expand...

Agreed. That's why I'm not putting an edge on a crowbar.

If you really want a sharp do it all pry bar buy a Strider . That is not a slam , they are hell for stout and super sharp to boot .

Jerry
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I'd do, if Strider made anything with a blade less than three inches long. They don't. Hence this thread.

James
 
I've been extremely happy with my Busse Assault Shaker, however, if this isn't for you maybe you could check out Busses new Pepper Shaker. A little more expense but that is because Jerry is doing the grinding on these. I've attached a pic.

It is also slightly lighter and should be a better slicer as it is ground from thinner stock. Still INFI, with the same great warranty. :D
 
Geez...you'd think I'd know the dimensions on my own knife! Actually I got the dimensions from the catalog, so I don't feel too bad. ;)

James, try contacting Strider. I'm sure they will make anything you want. They have versions of some knives slightly longer or shorter than the std model.

Same goes for most of the other custom makers I'm sure.
 
Braaaaaap! Jerry gets 30 seconds in the penalty box for bringing up what we actually need. The most knives any of us actually need would be about 3, to cover any contingency. How many of us limit ourselves to that number? I have a car, a pickup, a motorcycle and three bicycles. One bike would get me everywhere I "need" to go. I have 5 functioning watches, probably worth a couple thousand dollars. One $20 Timex would get me by. I have a TOPS C.A.T., Small Blackjack, and TOPS Scalpel as stubby, stout, blades. Don't "need" any of them, but I will probably add to that list because I want to.
 
My advice, FWIW, is:
Don't settle.
Get the best one you can afford, now, and you won't have a shoebox (or 3) of lesser knives that just didn't do it, like alot of us here ;). In the long run, you'll probably spend less.

My own Dozier K9 Personal Ute is 1/8" thick. That is plenty thick for such a small blade.

I just don't understand all of the 'ado' about prying.
What would you pry with a knife, in your everyday world? And if you did have a chore that required prying, would it be such an effort to go get a screwdriver? Or, a prybar?

Get the Dozier, you won't look back :D
Unless it is for more Doziers!
 
Can I come out of the penalty box now ? I swear I'll play nice . I am a total knife nut ! Just since December I've had 2 customs made ( working on # 3 and 4 as I write ) I can certainly agree with having and wanting more than I need . I do truly feel a person should get the very best knife possible . Pay for quality and only cry once . Oh I forgot about the two Hawks I had made ( now what is a person really going to do with these , Play , play ,play ) I think so many good knives have been mentioned it would take a month just to rule some of them out . As stated earlier , the custom makers can and will make a knife of a certain model longer or shorter as needed . Mr. Clark here on the forum makes some small fixed blades that are screaming nice and affordable . Check him out , I think it is R.W. Clark . Did I play better this time and can I come back to the sand box with you guys later ? :) :D


Edited to correct Mr. Clarks initials
 
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