Stripping some Beckers : New Logo Etching Update

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Mar 27, 2012
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Thought I would share some of the other Becker related projects that I have been working on over the last month.
Did a lot of stripping, that's for sure.
10 blades to be exact. (two BK-2's, BK-4, BK-10, BK-12, two BK-14's, BK-15, BK-16, BK-17)

I'll try to explain what and how I did stuff so any new guys and girls or anyone new to stripping can get a better understanding so they may attempt it on their own if they want.

First off I use some Aircraft paint remover that I got like two years ago at an auto supply store and have used it on almost 20 knives. It is just starting to run out. So yes, one can will last you a very long time.

Second, Do not use in unventilated are. That is just a no brainer.

Third, use gloves. It is not pleasant on your skin. However I didn't use gloves. Haha.

Lets begin.

First up is this group of knives. Also did a BK-14 at the same time.
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Tweeners Before the strip. Take of the handles and tape up any parts you do not want removed.
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All taped up. Note the Bk-17 has the old scales on since I wanted the coating removed all the way up to the handle.
(do not use micarta scales if you are trying to do this. I can only guess that they will fall apart)
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All have been sprayed. (Clean knives first to get all oils and other contaminates off so stripper can have direct contact to coating for maximum results. Then spray thin coat of stripper on knife. Doesn't take that much to achieve desired results. Also, it usually takes two times in the stripper to get everything off. I believe the old Ka-bar coating was harder to get off.)
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Here you can see the new coating actually bubbling up. Probably been 10 or 20 minutes. Can't remember.
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BK-17. The coating scrapes of easily with a razor blade or another knife and I also use a wire brush with soap and water and an old toothbrush.
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All have been cleaned with soap and water to get the stripper off.
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Here are before, during, and after shots of the BK-14 that I did for a friend.
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Mustard applied.
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Finished knife.
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Here is the BK-15 after stripping.
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Sanding out some of the grind marks.
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Looking good so far.
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About to apply the Brass Black (Note: I have since stripped this coating off as to not contaminate my food.)
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Applying Brass Black
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After finish was applied.
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BK-15 and BK-16
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After sanding the BK-16
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BK-17
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The three Tweeners Finished up.
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BK-15 after extensive use.
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Bk-16 Looking all nice and shinny!
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BK-17 all done. Brass black was applied to finger guard and top part of blade.
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Tweener Lineup
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BK-15 after I stripped the Brass Black off and Decided to strip the Coating all the way back to the Handle.
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Here is a picture of me adding some jimping to a friends BK-2 that I stripped for him.
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My Akita was helping me do some mods!
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I have a thread that is dedicated to my BK-10 but I will show a few of the modification pictures here.
I stripped both of these at the same time along with a BK-14.
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Applying PCB etchant to deepen the logos. Should have left the BK-2 a little longer.
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All tapped up and ready for the Stripper. (Note: I stripped the BK-10 everywhere except under the handle. I actually prefer the way the metal feels in the hand. Might go back and redo some of my other knives at a later date. I do not recommend stripping under the handle scales because water will get under them and it will rust.)
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Coating is just falling off.
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Scraped of very easily.
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All stripped.
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Before I sanded down the metal and cleaned up the edges where the coating is.
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How My BK-10 currently looks after a few other mods. (check my BK-10 thread out for more details)
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So I figured it was time to finally strip the BK-12 (RSK MK2).
I have been using it for over a year and most of the coating was already removed from use.
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After stripping
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The Ritter Becker logo is a little messed up because Some of the coating had already wore off by the time I applied the PCB etchant solution.
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I did nothing to the Blade of the BK-12 after stripping. How it looks is how it is under the coating. Very cool looking and I am probably going to leave it like this for a while.


I am still working in the BK-4 Machax. When I am done with that one I will update with pictures.

Hope you all enjoy and feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Take care
 
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Man, Awesome thread! do you notice that much of a difference with the stripped blade vs the coated? Or is it just aesthetics? You must have a bucket full of grivory scales!
 
Excellent work,thank you for sharing this :encouragement:

You are welcome! And thanks!

Man, Awesome thread! do you notice that much of a difference with the stripped blade vs the coated? Or is it just aesthetics? You must have a bucket full of grivory scales!
Thanks man. I do notice a difference at first but once you actually use the blade on wood the coating (especially the new coatings) they start to smooth out then ware off. But for food prep and cleaning deer and stuff I can't stand the coating because stuff gets caught in it. This year I skinned a deer with my BK-16 that was stock with the new coating and it was amazing how much fat and silver skin got stuck to it. Couldn't just wipe it off. Needed to be scrubbed with something to get in all the little groves. I do think it looks better stripped once the coating starts to ware off. Makes it look new again and personalized.
 
What grit sandpaper do you recommend for getting your blades smooth and shiny like that?
 
What grit sandpaper do you recommend for getting your blades smooth and shiny like that?

If you go to the automotive section in your local superstore or go to an automotive store, you can usually buy a variety pack that usually has anywhere from 4 to 6 different grits. That is probably your best bet. If you use water or WD-40 or some kind of oil when sanding your sheets will last longer and I actually wash mine after with a little soap and water. You would be surprised at how long a sheet can last. Now to answer your question, I like to use as many grits as possible and it doesn't take as long between grits if you move up that way as to lets say jumping from 220 to 600 or 800. My typical grit I start out with if it is a fresh blade (freshly stripped) is 220 or 320. So 220 - 320 -400- 600- 800- 1000- 1500- 2000- 2500. I have this foam like 3500 girt piece I've been using as well. I just get the major marks out of the blade. As you can probably see, there are still the small vertical marks in the blade. I just don't feel like sanding that much. haha I also have a few small pieces of Micro Mesh that I used for a different project and those work very well. Goes up to like 12,000. But usually I just use a strop like I would sand paper and polish it with the white compound then the green compound.

If it is a blade that I have already worked on and I am just touching up or taking off an old patina to apply a new one, I might only start with 400 or 600.

Also I think the packs with different grits start in like 600 and go up to 2000 or 2500 so you might have to buy the lower grits separately.

I hope that answers your question?

Thanks
 
Yes, lots of help. I am wondering if I have that much patience though. ;) I think I still have some 320 and some 600 or so. Has anybody had any experience with automitive buffing compounds? I have a couple different 3M compounds I might try out with a low speed buffer. The 3M headlight repair kit comes with some great small foam sanding pads and compounds and that just attaches to a standard drill. I can see some experimenting in my future.

If you go to the automotive section in your local superstore or go to an automotive store, you can usually buy a variety pack that usually has anywhere from 4 to 6 different grits. That is probably your best bet. If you use water or WD-40 or some kind of oil when sanding your sheets will last longer and I actually wash mine after with a little soap and water. You would be surprised at how long a sheet can last. Now to answer your question, I like to use as many grits as possible and it doesn't take as long between grits if you move up that way as to lets say jumping from 220 to 600 or 800. My typical grit I start out with if it is a fresh blade (freshly stripped) is 220 or 320. So 220 - 320 -400- 600- 800- 1000- 1500- 2000- 2500. I have this foam like 3500 girt piece I've been using as well. I just get the major marks out of the blade. As you can probably see, there are still the small vertical marks in the blade. I just don't feel like sanding that much. haha I also have a few small pieces of Micro Mesh that I used for a different project and those work very well. Goes up to like 12,000. But usually I just use a strop like I would sand paper and polish it with the white compound then the green compound.

If it is a blade that I have already worked on and I am just touching up or taking off an old patina to apply a new one, I might only start with 400 or 600.

Also I think the packs with different grits start in like 600 and go up to 2000 or 2500 so you might have to buy the lower grits separately.

I hope that answers your question?

Thanks
 
Thanks for posting this! Answered some questions I had. :) :thumbup:
 
Sorry to resurrect on old thread, but a great write up!
I just started my BK 12 last night, and our Akitas look like brothers! Thanks for the inspiration! Chris ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386878074.034895.jpg
 
Applying PCB etchant to deepen the logos. Should have left the BK-2 a little longer.
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I'm about to strip my new BK16 next week and want to do this to my knife to make the etch a little deeper. How did you go about doing this? Is it as simple as covering the etch area with a PCB etchant solution and leave it for a while? It wont eat thru the coating and ruin the blade in any way? What PCB etchant solution is needed to do this properly? Thanks in advance :thumbup:
 
I'm about to strip my new BK16 next week and want to do this to my knife to make the etch a little deeper. How did you go about doing this? Is it as simple as covering the etch area with a PCB etchant solution and leave it for a while? It wont eat thru the coating and ruin the blade in any way? What PCB etchant solution is needed to do this properly? Thanks in advance :thumbup:
No, the coating acts as the mask, the etchant eats the bare metal. You could also do it with electricity, as I did: Electro-etching my 16 which gives you a little more control IMO and also lets you blacken the logo with AC when you're done etching. You can even do it with a 9 volt battery. Search around the forum & the web, there's a lot of info out there on both methods.
 
When you did that mustard patina how long did you leave it on there for?
I will assume this question is directed at me - about ½ hr or so, maybe longer? You'll see the patina on the edge of the mustard; that's where the oxidation is taking place, not under the thick part, because oxygen isn't getting to it, so you don't get the same reaction with the steel. Just experiment; you can scotchbrite it off fairly quickly if you don't like your results, and then try again. there are probably a thousand ways to do it - mustard, ketchup, hot sauce, bbq sauce, jab your knife into some limes or lemons or grapefruits or oranges.....just take some pics when you're done and show us what you came up with, 'K?
 
Very nice. Thinking of stripping my afghan, but I'm not sure if the coating really bothers my yet. Might just do it to make it look pretty :D
 
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