Stripping some Beckers : New Logo Etching Update

Sorry for the late response, things have been crazy around here lately.

I'm about to strip my new BK16 next week and want to do this to my knife to make the etch a little deeper. How did you go about doing this? Is it as simple as covering the etch area with a PCB etchant solution and leave it for a while? It wont eat thru the coating and ruin the blade in any way? What PCB etchant solution is needed to do this properly? Thanks in advance :thumbup:

I think Granite answered it for ya and he is correct about the coating acting as a mask.
Here is a link to my BK-16 thread where you can see how deep I got it after 1 week of etching. But basically the PCB etchant is the way to go. Just leave it on for a while and then wipe it off and apply more. repeat the process until the etch is as deep as you want. I usually apply it about twice a day for a few days to get a decent etch. I went way longer than that on my newer 16 and it came out really deep, almost like the old roll stamped blades.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...tion-Extravaganza-Thread?highlight=dexwithers

Hope that helps.

When you did that mustard patina how long did you leave it on there for?

I think about 30 to 45 mins. I think I did it twice. You can always apply more. From my experience, it is best not to coat the entire thing, it needs a little air in some spots. I'd say just try it out and if you don't like it, polish it off and start again. I wouldn't leave it for more than an hour or two at a time since some mustards are more acidic and will eat into the blade quicker.

Do most paint removers/strippers work or are there preferred ones?

Some work better than others but they all work. I used the aircraft paint remover but some prefer the Jasco. It depends what your store sells i guess.
 
Sorry to resurrect on old thread, but a great write up!
I just started my BK 12 last night, and our Akitas look like brothers! Thanks for the inspiration! Chris View attachment 399692

That's Awesome man!! Your dog is beautiful! Mine is a girl but man she is aggressive towards some other dogs. Didn't know that when we got her but we love her to death, just have to take precautions around small dogs and cats. Yours like that?

They really are majestic animals.

How did your 12 turn out? Thats my favorite Becker!!
 
I have a quick question. I am waiting on my bk 14 to come in, and eventually will strip it; anyways is the blue tape the only thing you used to protect your handle? I was curious as to how people go about stripping only the blade (I was not sure if the tape would be enough to keep the handle from getting stripper on it). I would like to just strip the blade and then later if I decide that I would like to do the handles then I could.
 
I have a quick question. I am waiting on my bk 14 to come in, and eventually will strip it; anyways is the blue tape the only thing you used to protect your handle? I was curious as to how people go about stripping only the blade (I was not sure if the tape would be enough to keep the handle from getting stripper on it). I would like to just strip the blade and then later if I decide that I would like to do the handles then I could.

Yes sir! The tape works pretty good for keeping the stripper away. I would recommend getting some good tape and don't spray to much where the tape meets the coating since it does tend to eat under just a bit. A trick that works for me is to run a knife or razor blade along the tape line before you peel off the tape. It just makes a cleaner line where the coating is left on.
Also, I do prefer to leave the coating on under the handle if you are going to use your knife for cleaning animals or cooking since when washing the blade and handles to get blood or food off tends to allow water to seep under the handle scales and will make the tang rust.
 
Nice info....was planning to do the entire blade, but leaving the coating under the scales makes sense. Plus the etching thread kicks ass.....nice!

Years ago, my neighbor used to build custom studio recording consoles. He would etch his own boards and I would pack and solder them.
 
Thanks, any info on this is extremely helpful as I have never tried to strip a blade before. As I said I will probably leave it how it is for a little while and then strip it later down the road.
 
Thanks for the great tutorial on stripping! I can't wait to try it out!

Cheers,

Tim
 
I'm wondering if the etchant would work on the BK-24....the logos have no depth.

The etchant will eat the metal but you will not be able to deepen just the logo unless you had a coating or some sort of heavy-duty sticker or vinyl cutout maybe.

So no it will not work the same way.

The only reason you can etch the logo deep on the regular knives is because it has a coating that prevents the PCB from eating away anything other than what was already cut thru the coating.

The Bk-24's logo is just a discoloration of the metal I believe. I can do the same thing with my electro etch thingy that uses salt water and electricity. It turns the metal a blackish color but is smooth to the touch.

If I get chance tomorrow, I'll do a demo of it.
 
The etchant will eat the metal but you will not be able to deepen just the logo unless you had a coating or some sort of heavy-duty sticker or vinyl cutout maybe.

So no it will not work the same way.

The only reason you can etch the logo deep on the regular knives is because it has a coating that prevents the PCB from eating away anything other than what was already cut thru the coating.

The Bk-24's logo is just a discoloration of the metal I believe. I can do the same thing with my electro etch thingy that uses salt water and electricity. It turns the metal a blackish color but is smooth to the touch.

If I get chance tomorrow, I'll do a demo of it.

Thank you Dex, I believe the logos on the 24 are photo etched which is a discoloration as you stated.
 
Well it's that time again. That's right, time to break in a few more knives. I really don't like to hard use my knives until I Etch the logos deeper and usually strip the blade of coating. I decided to just add on to this thread instead of making a new so it will be more of an overall how to mod a Becker thread. (My way that is. Plenty of great ways out there to do it, this is just how I do things.)

I don't think I've really shown in depth how to make the new logos deeper and how much work it really is. Not hard work but does take some time.

If you choose not to etch the logos before stripping, you most likely will lose them if you develop a heavy patina or if you do even light sanding to the blade. Trust me, I have a couple of knives that you can't even see the logo. Cool if you are going for that look.


So first you want to start with one knife or many knives as you see here. I prefer to wait till I have a few and do them all at once.
(Doing a lot of Beckers, but also have a few ESEE's, my new KA-bar Potbelly, and my TOPS BOB.)
3E9801C2-6B53-4713-B7CC-08A7359071A7_zpsipoieydf.jpg


As you can see, I made a little workstation outside since I was cleaning out my garage/workshop yesterday. And I don't really like to be around the chemicals in a closed in place, so make sure it is well ventilated if you are doing it inside.

A few close up shots.
6E4819EA-4657-4A11-B1D4-F9DFAEA6B778_zpsbd7pc5u3.jpg


F692884C-DB1C-4BDC-95CB-3EE5D733E332_zpsmt93ngnn.jpg


537BAB62-5809-4976-80BB-E245292AC386_zpsnypswegs.jpg


As you can see, the logos on all of these knives are not very deep, just breaks thru the coating and in some cases, maybe a little into the metal.

I am using some of the same PCB Etchant that I have used for the last couple of times. It seems to still have some kick to it. I do however add a little household Hydrogen Peroxide to it to get it activated. (I read somewhere to do this.) As you can see it bubbles up and slowly settles back down. Not sure if this is a necessary step or not but I do think it makes it work a little faster from my experiences.
F7E32C82-C5FB-44B1-80CB-017223915F58_zpszbi8ynad.jpg


6040E382-61AE-465F-8A20-26BB96D91240_zpsbewffgzm.jpg




One important step is to clean the area being etched with some type of soap or degreaser. I used household dishwashing soap and an old toothbrush. I have in the past used stronger stuff. It really just depends on how dirty or oily it is. If it is a brand new knife, you shouldn't have to do much. But if you have been using it then dirt and oils and blood and other stuff can get in there and stop the PCB from working properly. Also, If you oil your knives after use, then all that will need to be removed.

9D4CAFAC-0685-4C03-A4CF-73BF84E09B7E_zpswkssh40z.jpg


After I washed all the blades, I dried them and also now is the time to mask of any areas you do not want to be etched. I usually use fingernail polish for this but tried some tape this time. If the tape doesn't work, I will go back to the fingernail polish.

NOTE: You can take a stripped blade and use a paint or fingernail polish, or even a nice sticker or vinyl stencil cutout and make your own mask for your own logos or designs.

B215A379-0206-4B34-A385-C9E32654E0AC_zpsbfnbvlkn.jpg


87479AC3-7DA9-45A6-B1DF-158559EFC1F9_zpsyldyg9bx.jpg


5AE54918-6419-46A4-B8FE-30735C2990A5_zpsw8bziuyi.jpg


B84BEE5C-7768-45C4-B908-4E1D36832067_zpsku94m7oa.jpg


I didn't want full logos on some of the knives, that's why I taped them off. Hopefully when it's all said and done, I can light sand the blade and be left with only the part I etched. We will see in a few days.

Here they are with the Etchant applied. I did do the back sides as well as the top. NOTE: If you flip the blade over while etchant is on one side, make sure to flip sharp edge up so if any etchant drips down while rotating, it won't get on the exposed edge. It will eat the edge. If you are new to this, you may want to do one side at a time and also might want to coat the exposed blade with fingernail polish, tape, or even a heavy coating of vasaline should work. I have done that in the past but personally don't feel the need at this point. Just be warned, PCB is nasty stuff.

I used a q-tip to apply it. Make sure to rub it in the logo real good. I like to put a pile of it on top so as it eats thru, more fills in. If you don't put it evenly, some letters or markings will not be even. You can always fill those in later.

DA374777-4AF7-4402-B8A9-59E0F8A6ADEA_zpsqcijdk0g.jpg


I just kept applying the etchant as need throughout the day as I worked in the garage. Since it was outside exposed to the wind, it did dry up faster than normal.

Now, I wanted to try something different to this 16. (one of the Lemons)
I used gun blue. Then applied household bleach. Wanted to see if this way would work faster to etch the logos.
EF9E0A09-8461-4617-8CB6-485A9A164089_zpsj43s1pnh.jpg


FB988CBC-6A4E-4901-BE2B-0A37EAA1E5EB_zpsbrwnidh2.jpg


FB988CBC-6A4E-4901-BE2B-0A37EAA1E5EB_zpsbrwnidh2.jpg


You can see it starts to rust up quick with the bleach on it.
948E94C1-46B0-4B19-98CB-75D4275CFC6C_zps73fikyl4.jpg


Here they all are just Etching away.
144317D9-6737-4D9B-B733-66D6904565C3_zpsy9q1ucd5.jpg


Later that night, I cleaned all the blades again with soap, water, and the old toothbrush, dried them all and reapplied tape where needed. Brought them inside for the night, and reapplied Etchant to only one side.
E336954F-9318-4275-9ACE-45CBFDBE588D_zps0ltcvhwx.jpg


442F5B3D-2F18-4862-AFDC-F91357B722F8_zpsvk2s5z3i.jpg


I am going to do the other side today. About to go out to the garage and check the progress and will update with new pics.


Also just my thoughts, if you are unsure if you will strip your blades but think you might want to at a later date, I would recommend etching them before you start to use the blade heavily. Reasons being, once you ware of the coating from either just hard use or batoning or what not, it is to late to go back and etch. I know from experience, look at my BK12, the Ritter/Becker logo is all distorted since I used the hell out of the knife before I ever stripped the blade. Just my two cents. Take it or leave it.

Haha. Enjoy Guys! :D
 
Last edited:
When I went back today this is what it looked like. It ate into the metal real good overnight. Since it was inside, the PCB didn't dry up as much.
IMG_7658_zps6b989397.jpg


I then rubbed a little more on and let it sit a few more hours while I went run some errands. I then washed it all off and dried my knives. Don't know what happened to the weather but it is around 30 degrees here so I didn't do the other side again yet. My hands were frozen from washing the blades outside in the cold and wind. Gonna go back out in the next couple hours and set the other side up to etch overnight.
Man, it was like 70 degrees yesterday?

Anyway, gonna post more when more progress happens.
 
Holy moley Dex, terrific "how to " thread. All of us eagerly await your additional pics.
 
Those are awesome pics. Thanks for the tutorial long with them. I am considering doing this. I was against etching when I first starting seeing these threads, wanting to keep the laser etch as it comes from the factory based purely on nostalgia. However, as I get more Beckers I find I too, I am wanting to mod them/change them....within the bounds of my ability of course. I can do this. haha

Thanks again
 
Holy moley Dex, terrific "how to " thread. All of us eagerly await your additional pics.

Thanks hawk! Hopefully everyone can learn something from my mistakes. lol And I will try to put up as many pics of the process as I can.

Those are awesome pics. Thanks for the tutorial long with them. I am considering doing this. I was against etching when I first starting seeing these threads, wanting to keep the laser etch as it comes from the factory based purely on nostalgia. However, as I get more Beckers I find I too, I am wanting to mod them/change them....within the bounds of my ability of course. I can do this. haha

Thanks again

Thanks TD. Yea, I like the nostalgia as well but all my Becker's in the beginning were roll stamped so when I got the newer ones and started stripping them, the logo would just disappear. I am used to the deep stamps and now that I have both, I prefer a deeper etch. Not as deep as the stamping but something that will stay on the blade forever. Also it always makes your blade unique because the etching doesn't always come out identical. I love the etch on my saber 16 the most. At first I thought it was to deep, but after finishing the blade, I think it's perfect.

And of course you can do this mod. It's easy. To me modding them gives them each a unique personality, and makes me love them even more.


After these are done, I will strip a non etched blade as well so we can compare them. I also might do one with my electric etcher and see how deep that goes.

I really do want to find the best way to accomplish this task.
 
Ok, so Here are the pics after I washed the etchant off earlier today.
You can see it getting deeper. Just takes so long.
5D037813-A68F-41B5-892E-FF013BC7ED19_zpsokgmspgd.jpg


E2AF6DED-0682-4F4A-96CE-D74A77DF3A20_zpsjcvuu6ko.jpg


Here is a pic of the other side of the BK9 and you can see that this side is not as deep.
37558EBB-DDA4-467D-96C5-AAA471058F09_zps8chvehay.jpg


I've got them all set up for the night to etch the other side. It was a lot colder in there tonight so I'm not sure if it will change the speed or not. We will see tomorrow.
33C12AE4-55CA-4D28-A769-B464EA34F168_zpsbhs5la9b.jpg




Now this isn't a Becker but same rules apply. I just wanted to show you want can happen. Here you can see that some of the coating on the fine print stuff has come off unexpectedly.
It's always difficult when it is so small. Don't know if the etchant started to eat under the coating or if I maybe brushed it to hard while washing it? I probably should have been more carefull with it. This sometimes happens to my Beckers on the middles of the a in Ka-bar and some other fine print but to really a big deal.

B7D9C6F6-06A4-46D6-B487-1FD2CDDE8D92_zpsn9hywyra.jpg


F1E53FC5-16D7-4494-9212-29BF2F700690_zpsb8wmrhqr.jpg


Now it should be deeper than what it was and should be ok to stop here. If I apply anymore etching solution, all the spots where the coating came off would be eaten away. The part that says tops would be gone. I'm gonna stop here since this should be deep enough for what I need.

I noticed on the BK-11 that part of a letter came off, but I don't think it's going to matter. We will know more when it's all done.

And incase you are wondering, I am going to do this same process for a few more days. On the larger knives I will go a little longer than the smaller ones.
 
Could you explain how you blacken the etching to make it more prominent? I've read that it is done with AC, but I'm not sure how to go about it
Thanks
 
Could you explain how you blacken the etching to make it more prominent? I've read that it is done with AC, but I'm not sure how to go about it
Thanks

Well the AC etchers work as well to darken it up. I have seen some machines that have enough current to eat thru pretty deep. They use saltwater solution and electricity. The one I have is pretty small and I usually use it to just blacken marks on the surface of the metal. I need to dig it out and experiment. I will take pics and post them.

But what I am doing here is using the PCB Etchant to make the logos deeper and also the Etchant makes it black.
Once you clean the etch and oil it, it comes out a nice black. This a lot cheaper way to do it. A bottle of etchant is like $8 and a machine is almost 10 X's that unless you make your own.

And even just blacking the logos will not last if you plan on sanding out any grind marks on the blade. It needs to be into the metal a little ways.

Here is a pic of my BK16 that I did the same process to for the etching.
08cb5a7ad51f3e018c7d8f25da1a5a39_zps191f5cb3.jpg


4c96417001c6c0af3f037439f1c8db63_zps42c227d2.jpg


Hope that helps to answer your question?
 
It does, thank you - I've got the PCB etchant, but I haven't used it yet...so I didn't realize it darkened, as well.
Thanks again!
 
Back
Top