Stripping the Double Talon

We've had those wiggly lines in all sorts of things for years. I don't think it is anything new. These look less sinusoidal though maybe
 
Looks great man, nice job! :thumbup:

I beat on mine for a while yesterday. Since it was handy when I came in for lunch, I cleaned it up and used it to make a sandwich, lol. I got some light stains on the flats from slicing off a few pieces of smoked gouda with bacon, yum.
 
We have never heard a good explanation for those squiggly lines. They have always been more common in the past on Swamp Rat Sr101 blades, can't recall seeing them on INFI. Dont know what that means.
 
I finally received mine today. Awesome looking blade, I think it is a keeper. But it isn't a chopper. Not for me. Never will be. I can tell just by looking at the grind, and comparing with my Ratweiler (fatty), it doesn't have what it takes for my chopping. Edge is too thick (although shaving sharp), grind is too steep, and narrow, I just don't see it biting. Not without a re-grind. But it is hella bad, and like I said, a keeper. I just don't think it will make it out of the safe very often. Which is a shame. A knife should be used. But I just don't see it doing much except prying car doors off, stabbing feral pigs, and splitting logs. None of which I do.
 
rockspyder said:
I finally received mine today. Awesome looking blade, I think it is a keeper. But it isn't a chopper. Not for me. Never will be. I can tell just by looking at the grind, and comparing with my Ratweiler (fatty), it doesn't have what it takes for my chopping. Edge is too thick (although shaving sharp), grind is too steep, and narrow, I just don't see it biting. Not without a re-grind. But it is hella bad, and like I said, a keeper. I just don't think it will make it out of the safe very often. Which is a shame. A knife should be used. But I just don't see it doing much except prying car doors off, stabbing feral pigs, and splitting logs. None of which I do.
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My first thought was that it is brute-ish but it has a gracefull feel to it. I'm thinking I may have someone mod this one for me or wait until the custom shop opens back up and send it in to get it thinned out a little and get the scribbles on the blade erased.
 
Good point on the custom shop. That could totally change its character.
 
Your remark is spot on.
Since the DTBM is SR101 it fits perfectly. :D

resinguy said:
We have never heard a good explanation for those squiggly lines. They have always been more common in the past on Swamp Rat Sr101 blades, can't recall seeing them on INFI. Dont know what that means.
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clampdaddy said:
My first thought was that it is brute-ish but it has a gracefull feel to it. I'm thinking I may have someone mod this one for me or wait until the custom shop opens back up and send it in to get it thinned out a little and get the scribbles on the blade erased.
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Harbor freight 1x30 sir. Get you some.
 
I wonder if the squiggly lines are a way to mark the blades as SR101 instead of INFI. It would make sense for a mixed release, like the Son of Swat or something. But when it is a design only released in SR, like the DTBM, I don't see why it would be needed.
 
Maybe it's to tell the logo guy wether to put "Busse" or "Battle Grade". Who knows?

Anyway, I'd just beat the crap out of it and laugh when I saw those doodles.

OP, now that you've stripped it and seen it naked, how about getting it cerakoted? The doodles might still show though.
 
AntDog said:
.....OP, now that you've stripped it and seen it naked, how about getting it cerakoted? The doodles might still show though.
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I just don't like coating on a blade. I think I'll try to address the doodles instead.
 
clampdaddy, are the lines deep in the steel or more on the surface? Just wondering because if they're not too deep you could sand them out relatively easily...if they are deep they can still be sanded out, just some more time would be required. Scotch brite pads, various sandpaper grits or a 1x30 are all good ideas...or like you said you could send it out to be bead blasted etc.
 
Ratman79 said:
clampdaddy, are the lines deep in the steel or more on the surface? Just wondering because if they're not too deep you could sand them out relatively easily...if they are deep they can still be sanded out, just some more time would be required. Scotch brite pads, various sandpaper grits or a 1x30 are all good ideas...or like you said you could send it out to be bead blasted etc.
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They are "deep" in the steel. If I were to guess, just eyeballing it, I'd say about .005 deep. If I had a way of reinstalling the handles, I take the off and go to town on it but I'm not sure how I could do a good job of it with the handles on. I'll have to ponder on this one for a bit.
 
I can't seem to get pics of a decent size put here from my phone but maybe this one will give a better perspective.
 
Question for you guys. Do you think having this knife reground to a full flat would take away too much weight up front and hurt it's chopping ability?
 
How well does it chop now?

It sounds like the squiggles are a sticking point for you, and you just want them removed at all costs...

If it bothers you that much you could always tape off everything but the flats and do something to rough it up intentionally to hide the marks. Maybe take a hammer to it? Think Brute de forge?
 
clampdaddy said:
Question for you guys. Do you think having this knife reground to a full flat would take away too much weight up front and hurt it's chopping ability?
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My knee-jerk reaction is yes. I had an 1111 that was reground to full flat* (off the Exchange, I didn't do it.) It weighed about 4.5 oz less than a stock one. It worked on the 1111 because the res-c handle and reduced tang basically turned into a BG B11, but I think it would move the balance point back significantly and make the DT very "knifey."

One think you could do to compensate would be to bob the rear talon so that you could choke back for more leverage. Improving the cutting ability at the edge might also help to make up for the loss in forward weight, but I would be cautious about heat damage and probably wouldn't go much under .03".

*The regrind turned out to have resulted in some combination of too thin (.017-.02") and a damaged ht. I killed it, but when I asked the shop a couple of questions Jerry asked me to send it in and after looking at it, insisted on making me whole even though I said I wasn't looking for warranty coverage. I was totally blown away. When Jerry says he's never denied a warranty claim, I totally believe it. He's a class act and stands behind his product completely. :thumbup:
 
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