Stripping the Double Talon

AntDog said:
How well does it chop now?

It sounds like the squiggles are a sticking point for you, and you just want them removed at all costs...

If it bothers you that much you could always tape off everything but the flats and do something to rough it up intentionally to hide the marks. Maybe take a hammer to it? Think Brute de forge?
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Well, I don't have any knives this big to compare it's chopping ability to so honestly. I don't know. Haha! All I can say about its chopping ability is that it chops better since I resharpened it. And yes, I plan on keeping this blade for a long, long time. I love everything about the feel of it and I really don't want to look at those squiggles every time I use it.
 
Apophis said:
My knee-jerk reaction is yes. I had an 1111 that was reground to full flat* (off the Exchange, I didn't do it.) It weighed about 4.5 oz less than a stock one. It worked on the 1111 because the res-c handle and reduced tang basically turned into a BG B11, but I think it would move the balance point back significantly and make the DT very "knifey."

One think you could do to compensate would be to bob the rear talon so that you could choke back for more leverage. Improving the cutting ability at the edge might also help to make up for the loss in forward weight, but I would be cautious about heat damage and probably wouldn't go much under .03".

*The regrind turned out to have resulted in some combination of too thin (.017-.02") and a damaged ht. I killed it, but when I asked the shop a couple of questions Jerry asked me to send it in and after looking at it, insisted on making me whole even though I said I wasn't looking for warranty coverage. I was totally blown away. When Jerry says he's never denied a warranty claim, I totally believe it. He's a class act and stands behind his product completely. :thumbup:
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That's pretty much what I was thinking. If I have any serious work done to it, I'll have Busse do it to make sure nobody is messing up their product. In the meantime I may just try sanding the flat down by hand.
 
If it were me, and I was satisfied with the chopping:

I'd cold-blue the flats, then sand the high spots. On the squiggly side. That would hopefully inhibit corrosion a little in those low spots where I'd think the blade is most likely to pick up corrosion. Then I'd beat on it like I stole it and not worry about the squiggle. But I got all sorts of beat-up blades; that certainly would fit right in.

Look at it this way: the first "scratch" is definitely already taken care of...
 
clampdaddy said:
I'm liking this idea. I bet a guy could add an inline rheostat and slow it down. I'm not too keen on the idea of sparks coming off my blades. Lol!
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Rheostat probably won't work in the 1x30. Most A/C motors need full current to develop torque. Just a heads up.

I'm curious about the squiggly marks also. They would bother me too.
 
rockspyder said:
If it were me, and I was satisfied with the chopping:

I'd cold-blue the flats, then sand the high spots. On the squiggly side. That would hopefully inhibit corrosion a little in those low spots where I'd think the blade is most likely to pick up corrosion. Then I'd beat on it like I stole it and not worry about the squiggle. But I got all sorts of beat-up blades; that certainly would fit right in.

Look at it this way: the first "scratch" is definitely already taken care of...
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When I was etching the logo I got to thinking that maybe the etchant would be a quick and easy way to "blue" it but I'm actually liking the gray color of the steel all by itself.
 
jsnell said:
Rheostat probably won't work in the 1x30. Most A/C motors need full current to develop torque. Just a heads up.

I'm curious about the squiggly marks also. They would bother me too.
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I kind of wondered about that but got to thinking that when used on a knife blade I wouldn't really be putting much load on it. When I sharpen tools at work I always prefer to use a soft touch against the belt so as not to overheat the edges. What I worried most about was the motor not being able to cool itself as well at lower RPM's.
 
Ya. The motor would get hot, quick. So long as you don't bear down, use the right grit for how much metal you want to remove, and take your time, you'll be fine. Without the rheostat I mean.

Sorry, misread your post at first. The motor will probably burn up regardless of the load it is under. There are exceptions to this, but varying the frequency is the best, safest way to slow down an A/C motor. And that's mostly with three phase stuff. With a rheostat, the belt probably won't slow down. It will just be underpowered.
 
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Depends on the type of motor on the 1x30. If it is a universal motor that would probably work. I'm betting that's not the case, but that's just a guess.
 
You could try a regrind but don't go too crazy. I do agree though that as is, that DTBM has pretty poor chopping ability. The thick edge doesn't help. Mine came with a butter knife dull 70+ degree inclusive angle. I got rid of it. Hopefully you have better luck. On the plus side, you have a nice and bright finish going on!
 
Besides the lines, that Du looks extremely smooth underneath. I like the looks of that a lot.
 
clampdaddy said:
When I was etching the logo I got to thinking that maybe the etchant would be a quick and easy way to "blue" it but I'm actually liking the gray color of the steel all by itself.
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My point in cold bluing would be to protect the steel from pitting corrosion in the ... pits of the squiggly grind lines. The sanding of the high spots would get rid of the cold blue except in the pits. Unfortunately, it would highlight the lines. But they'd be better protected. And eventually as the blade developed its inevitable patina, they'd become less stark.
 
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