Strongest folder?

I have Tripwire, Strider AR, and couple Crusader Forge knives. Tripwire and CF should do the work. Strider is a etter cutter but is not even close with strenght (tip area is the weak point).
 
LIGHT SABER???!!!!!!!! who makes it?? how much is it?? can we have our own forum??? do you have to have a license to carry it?? this is great news!! paul ( excited ) :D
 
If a folder breaks, it will break first at the tip, then maybe the pivot. so look for something with a strong tip & pivot. I wouldn't want extra beef where the knife isn't going to break anyway.
 
That's easy......If I was trapped in an elevator,it would be a Cold Steel Recon 1 with a Tanto blade.
 
The Sebenza, Unnumzaan, Striders, XM's, SOCOM Elite, ZT 0200 or 0300, and some others mentioned above will be more than sufficient for the task outlined by the original poster in my opinion. Unless you are also carrying a cheater bar with you to gain leverage then you should not have to worry about these knives failing, IMO.

I once took part in a destructive test for a Microtech Socom (before the elite). The blade was clamped into a vice about one inch from the pivot. I was invited to try and break the pivot. Using all my strength I was unable to break the knife handle from the blade. It finally took 2 of us both applying maximum effort with a 3' cheater bar to break it, and the blade broke at the choil not the pivot. We were unable to break the pivot.

Now the old style socom is not the strongest knife by today's standards, and this was about 10 years ago. So I don't think you need to worry about which folder is "strongest", just which ones are "strong enough".

There are probably 5-10 manufacturers making ones that are strong enough, as in able to take more than you will be able to give under those circumstances.
 
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My vote goes to the XM-18 & Shane Sibert Pocket Rocket, along with a Terzuola ACTF.
 
If i had to pry my way out of an elevator id want a custom Balisong.... i think the blade would break before hte pivot, otherwise i thing the strider RC would work well. during the 911 catastrophe a window washer/janitor who was stuck in an elevator in the world trade center used a squeegee to get out. just food for thought.
 
original al mar sere attack. 80's-early 90's. 10 1/4" of tankish folder. micarta scales on brass liners. 4 1/8" ss blade. the one that started it all.

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cheers, kimo
 
ikiddp9 said:
Yes i know, knives are mean to cut, only....but in case somebody needs to open his way through an broken elevator door or is trapped inside a fallen cabin in the woods...wich folder would make it through? Strider? AlMar SERE? Sebenza? ZT? Emerson?
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The three that would come to my mind are a Strider AR, a Crusader Forge, or a Severtech Auto. All tough. All overbuilt. All good quality knives. My carry knife of choice is the Strider AR. Love that thing.
 
I am leaning on the thought of knives that folks might actually have in their pocket. I don't own many Cold Steel knives but would have to think that a large Voyager or a folding Bushman would be strong enough to open an elevator door. I can tell you my Emerson CQC-7A is pretty stout, I would use it in an instant without thought of a failure. The Airkat mentioned above is a BAD MOFO! but I have never met anyone with one in pocket. I sometimes carry my ER Shrapnel and it would punch holes through an elevator door, but it don't fold....:D

Extrema Ratio Shrapnel...

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:)
 
Infi-del said:
The three that would come to my mind are a Strider AR, a Crusader Forge, or a Severtech Auto. All tough. All overbuilt. All good quality knives. My carry knife of choice is the Strider AR. Love that thing.
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Having owned these two at one time or another (still have a Crusader Forge Metro Tactical) i'd give a slight nod to the Crusader Forge due to its pivot size and blade thickness. Of course, what makes it bulletproof also contributes to me not carrying it (big and heavy...compared to my Lone Wolf Double Duty).
 
I only owned one briefly, so I can't speak from experience, but I don't think the ZT will hold up. The speedsafe feature requires a 180 degree arc cut into the tang, effectively leaving it with only slim margins on the tang for lateral strength. Unlike the Striders, Sebenzas, and (especially) the Extrema Ratio folders, all of which I think could handle prying easily, I'd be reluctant to put the slotted ZT to the test.
 
I got trapped in an elevator for several hours on new years eve, 2006. I proposed to my wife that night. I didn't have a knife on me (I was in Riga, Latvia and was unsure of the laws) so I can't give real-world prying advice. But, I did have to go through the ceiling and hand-pry open the doors that opened to the second floor, which required some pipe found on top of the elevator. Some drunk guy gave me a beer and called the police for my wife and friends. Of course, the police were drunk, but they managed to inform the elevator people (also drunk). The police tried to question me on the broken 2nd floor doors. My wife explained to them that I was an American and didn't speak the language. When they found out I was an American, they were too embarrassed to speak English in front of me and told us to get out of there.

We got out just in time for the fireworks (and a proposal).

Alright, sorry for the story. But, I don't think a knife would have helped in any way. If we didn't find the pipe, we would have had to continue yelling and banging on the walls (no emergency phone, this elevator was Soviet era junk). The doors were steel. Come to think of it, the thing was a death trap.
 
Most people won't carry the big knives that might work for jobs like that. Even emergency service people carry smaller knives, for cutting, and rely on real prybars for heavy work.

I don't know that a massive pivot pin is what's needed for strength, as much as a large area of the tang inside the bolster. That gives the extended blade a stronger base to lever from.

The strength of the tip should be irrelevant in prying. Pry with the ricasso, where the blade is strongest and the leverage is on your side. Pry slowly and carefully to let the metal bend slightly if necessary and not snap off from a sudden load.

If nothing else works, call me, and I'll kick the door out for you.
 
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