Super fine stropping compound?

Is the Fromm Strop a good strop used with the Fromm Strop Dressing? I purchased it via Amazon, but noticed a lot of talk about the compound and a simple strop. I have a Busse SAR 3 with a convex blade.
 
Strop 'dressing' shouldn't be a cutting compound at all. It's more often a leather treatment like neatsfoot oil, lanolin, or Lexol. Something to work into a bare leather stop once a year or so.


Stitchawl
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by knifenut1013
I have been wanting to get some maple but for now I have been using oak. The oak works but I would not suggest it, its just what I had around.

MDF works very well to but you must be careful when using a spray, that stuff does not like to get wet. .

I picked up some cherry today. I was thinking of sanding it down to 400 in preparation for the paste. Does this sound about right?

.

cziv,
Kieth told me that also and I have not tried it as some others here have discussed using a harder surface. I may try the balsa just the same.

__________________
 
That should work, you can go finer if you want too. IMO the smoother the better the feel.
 
I'll take it to 600 and see where I'm at. How do you prep yours with the paste?
 
cziv said:
Keith at Hand American told me on the phone to use diamond compound on balsa wood. YMMV :)
Click to expand...

Hi cziv,
If we spoke I'm sure that I did mention diamond on balsa. It was back in the late 80's that I learned how to use green paint on a 2x4 to keep plane irons sharp on the job.

Most people know by now that chromium oxide is manufactured as paint pigment but happens to be very hard (8-9 on the Mohs scale) and usually manufactured in the 0.3 to 0.5 micron range.

I think balsa is a good surface to apply compounds to. It's soft so that particles tend to embed and not roll around. It's cheap, and it's very easy to sand to dead flat after using it for awhile, provided you start with at least 1/2" thickness.

While I like the balsa, I think any soft wood would do the job. Like I said, I started with a pine 2x4.

We're starting to blend a wider variety of compounds with our base paste formula. We're working in ranges starting with 220 - 400 grit, 600-1200 grit and then to the micron and sub micron sizes.

A lot of people have been interested in knowing where to find handamerican products. With few exceptions we'll be working through distributors. Some will specialize in specific products. At the moment most all of the line is being handled by Mark Richmond at chefknivestogo.com

I appreciate the support that I get from you guys (gals?)
Best
Keith
 
handamerican said:
Hi cziv,
If we spoke I'm sure that I did mention diamond on balsa. It was back in the late 80's that I learned how to use green paint on a 2x4 to keep plane irons sharp on the job.

Most people know by now that chromium oxide is manufactured as paint pigment but happens to be very hard (8-9 on the Mohs scale) and usually manufactured in the 0.3 to 0.5 micron range.

I think balsa is a good surface to apply compounds to. It's soft so that particles tend to embed and not roll around. It's cheap, and it's very easy to sand to dead flat after using it for awhile, provided you start with at least 1/2" thickness.

While I like the balsa, I think any soft wood would do the job. Like I said, I started with a pine 2x4.

We're starting to blend a wider variety of compounds with our base paste formula. We're working in ranges starting with 220 - 400 grit, 600-1200 grit and then to the micron and sub micron sizes.

A lot of people have been interested in knowing where to find handamerican products. With few exceptions we'll be working through distributors. Some will specialize in specific products. At the moment most all of the line is being handled by Mark Richmond at chefknivestogo.com

I appreciate the support that I get from you guys (gals?)
Best
Keith
Click to expand...

Good to have you post in Keith. Your reputation for sharpening, stropping, compounds etc. precedes you. I've enjoyed our two phone conversations. I'll have to check out Marks site. It's been a long time since I visited. Good luck in your role as distributor. I hope this works better for you and less hats to wear! :) :thumbup:
 
cziv said:
I hope this works better for you and less hats to wear! :) :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks cziv,
I've had a miserable experience with distributors in the past, but now at least the stink is embedded in my memory I can avoid problems.

I wish I could hire people to provide for customer service and fulfillment like the good old days but it's just so incredibly hard here in NJ, and I'm sure it's not much better elsewhere.

Back in the 80's I had a different type of company and employed quite a few people. They had respectable salaries and I provided health insurance. The premium for each person was about $30.00 a month for complete coverage. Several people used it, including me, and we never saw a bill.

Now decent health coverage runs about $700.00 a month, and it's crap shoot as to just what happens if you need to use it.

It's just nuts - but I'm grateful for surviving this mess, there's a lot of people in serious trouble.

I'm glad that you had a link to your site - I think there's a few things I might be interested in.
Best,
Keith
 
It's just nuts - but I'm grateful for surviving this mess, there's a lot of people in serious trouble.

I'm glad that you had a link to your site - I think there's a few things I might be interested in.
Best,
Keith
Click to expand...

Me too Keith. I've been in business online since 2001. I just shut down one website. It really bothered me at first but now I can concentrate on my 2 self defense product sites. One is kinda new, it's on my profile menu as "home page" (got it overhauled) and isn't doing well in search. Still don't have all the products up yet. The one under my sig line is not so new but far more business. Check out my profile for discounts to all BF members.

Talk to you later,
Chuck
 
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