Super steel opinions

I happen to like S30v and S35v a lot. I can get it pretty sharp using ceramic rods and benchstones from Spyderco; it doesn’t take too long nor is it too difficult. That is about as super as steel used in my favorite knives. I have a knife in Magnacut steel but so far it is a safe queen.
 
DavidABQ said:
I happen to like S30v and S35v a lot. I can get it pretty sharp using ceramic rods and benchstones from Spyderco; it doesn’t take too long nor is it too difficult. That is about as super as steel used in my favorite knives. I have a knife in Magnacut steel but so far it is a safe queen.
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When I play chess I always send out my queen early to troll on the pawns--- put 'er to use 👌
 
The steels you listed are not hard to sharpen with diamonds. If you have the geometry right, it only takes a few passes to form a burr. Are you grinding out edge damage? Or reprofiling each time?
 
Modernflame said:
The steels you listed are not hard to sharpen with diamonds. If you have the geometry right, it only takes a few passes to form a burr. Are you grinding out edge damage? Or reprofiling each time?
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I have diamonds. A few passes? Takes a whole lot more than a few passes. At least in my experience that's why I'm not leaning towards them steels anymore. Geometry is perfect it's a guided system. I wished it was a few passes. And no I have not been reprofiling it. Black magic marker. I think I need new stones. That's the only logical explanation I can come up with
 
Vlade said:
. But the 20 CV I would have been sharpening all day instead of cutting. I'm sure I'm doing something wrong
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No problem sharpening here… i have a WE, but this is soooo much easier. I strop in between or sometimes use my sharpmaker but this thing is alright. I use low speed and don’t notice the edge getting very hot at all. Not bad for the price. Belts go quickly sharpening super steels however
 
Vlade said:
I have diamonds. A few passes? Takes a whole lot more than a few passes. At least in my experience that's why I'm not leaning towards them steels anymore. Geometry is perfect it's a guided system. I wished it was a few passes. And no I have not been reprofiling it. Black magic marker. I think I need new stones. That's the only logical explanation I can come up with
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Last week I reprofiled a Sebenza in Magnacut @ 63+ hrc. This involves flattening the factory convex edge into a V shape on a fixed angle system. I did not want the deep scratches left by my low grit stones, so I used a medium grit then strops. The whole job took under 20 minutes including set up and take down. Next time I get it in the jig, resharpening will take much less time. Five minutes?
 
Vlade said:
I could see myself totally destroying all of my knives with that. I've never used one of those. I seen him for sale but I never thought of buying one
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Oh yeah I did that at first lol It takes some practice, but once you get the hang it’s not bad…

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Vlade said:
It did a good job. I'm interested
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Thanks! Eventually I do want to start learning on a real stone tho. At least try a Wharncliffe to start out, I feel like that would be the easiest blade shape to start out sharpening freehand.
the fixed systems are kind of a pain in the ass to use IMO… at least the wicked edge (it’s an older one without the upgraded clamp.. very expensive system too.)
 
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Grasshopperglock said:
There's sharp as in after a sharpening. Then there's a working edge. A middle time during the wear of the edge. That maintains a level of sharp.

Different steels take and hold a working edge. Different then each other.

I've used this comparison before but consider the razor you use to shave. At first, it's too sharp. You end up nicking yourself. Then as the blade wears. It's perfect. It'll shave hair but won't bite into the skin. Then as you continue to use it. All of the sudden, the working edge stops shaving hair. It's still sharp but the working edge has been worn past, the needed amount of sharpen to do it's purpose.

Same with kitchen knives. Some folks are terrified of a razor kitchen knife. But once it takes a working edge. Then they use it. Only stopping, after it gets, 'dull'. For which is subjective to the person using it.

The working edge of s20v will be different then 1095. However, to each their own. One person might prefer the working edge of 1095 over s20v. With both being the same level of, 'sharp'.
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I'm gonna have me some fun, I'm gonna have me some fun!
 
I like having all sorts of different knife blades types, grinds, and steels. I will even sometimes choose an option for the steel based on it being something I don't already have in my collection, provided it isn't a terrible choice for that particular knife. There are still a couple of steels that I want that haven't intersected with the knives I've purchased, but it's only a matter of time before that changes. How often and long a knife gets used for a given task has more to do with the handle ergonomics, as well at the blade thickness, size, grind, and shape than the steel, but I do appreciate the steel.
 
Vlade said:
I have diamonds. A few passes? Takes a whole lot more than a few passes. At least in my experience that's why I'm not leaning towards them steels anymore. Geometry is perfect it's a guided system. I wished it was a few passes. And no I have not been reprofiling it. Black magic marker. I think I need new stones. That's the only logical explanation I can come up with
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It is not about the number of passes, but about hitting the edge including the apex and forming a burr! Best to use the sharpie trick if in doubt.
 
I like the edge retention of my super steels, they may take a little longer to sharpen but I do not have to sharpen then as often. My bigest mix of tradition and super and tool steels is in Japanese kitchen knives, and again the same thing holds trus, the blue and white steel sharpen faster and the super and tool take longer, if I have the time to sharpen them I love the traditional steel blades, but again I also enjoy the others that do not need to be sharpened as often.
 
Twindog said:
I had a Cold Steel in Aus8 that suffered a half-moon deflection while I was chopping small branches. I now use a Vanax blade that is thinner -- 15 dps and 15 thousandths behind the edge -- and never suffers damage doing the same thing.

With such a thin edge, it is a breeze to respharpen. It holds an edge much longer than Aus8, and the steel is so fine-grained that the newly sharpened edge is super keen. And it is virtually rustproof.

Depending on your use and skill, regular steels are just fine. But for certain challenging uses, super steels can really shine.
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Hey how are you? It's been a bit.

I own quite a few different steels from many manufacturers. Certain steels, like M390/20CV/204p come with a great degree of variance depending on the manufacturer. The Chinese and Italians run M390 at a softer than ideal HRC, which could be part of your issue.

The best example of that steel had been in my Cheburkov Strizh, but that of course comes at a price. However, it's almost like it's a different steel compared to most of the other knives I have or have had.

I'll be forthright and say that I suck at sharpening. I've gotten better, but I rotate knives every day and even carry more than one if I plan to do a lot of cutting because it's easier to touch up the "working edge" of two super steels than it is to bring one back from butter knife dull for me.

I own some exotic steels like S125V and S390, but after 10 years on the forums, my favorite steels are still CPM-M4 and CTS-XHP.
 
K.O.D. said:
Hey how are you? It's been a bit.

I own quite a few different steels from many manufacturers. Certain steels, like M390/20CV/204p come with a great degree of variance depending on the manufacturer. The Chinese and Italians run M390 at a softer than ideal HRC, which could be part of your issue.

The best example of that steel had been in my Cheburkov Strizh, but that of course comes at a price. However, it's almost like it's a different steel compared to most of the other knives I have or have had.

I'll be forthright and say that I suck at sharpening. I've gotten better, but I rotate knives every day and even carry more than one if I plan to do a lot of cutting because it's easier to touch up the "working edge" of two super steels than it is to bring one back from butter knife dull for me.

I own some exotic steels like S125V and S390, but after 10 years on the forums, my favorite steels are still CPM-M4 and CTS-XHP.
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Good to hear from you as well.. aside from the knives we've all been pretty much busy down here Dodging hurricanes . I think we got lucky this year. I hope everything is good on your end boss.
 
knarfeng said:
In about 2000, Buck Knives published a study here on BF. They had used a CATRA machine, same as the one Larrin used, to identify the best blade geometry. Like Larrin, they made blades from different alloys with identical geometries. They showed that a 420HC blade would outperform a high end carbide containing alloy, if the 420HC had their new geometry and the carbide blade had their traditional geometry. And I might add that most knife makers still use that traditional blade geome

YMMV
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Is this study still on the site, I cant find it?
 
I am liking s110v so far. I'm new to the steel so further use of the steel is needed. Insulation dulls any knife quick because of the glass in it, and it brutal on any plain edge, requiring sharpening. But with this steel only a few passes and the edge is back to razor sharp at 350 grit. Of course I did not buy the knife for this task but a EDC gets used on anything it's needed. Will be testing it on cardboard in the future.
 
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