Surface grinder attachment issue

I have no experience as i dont have a SGA. But i have heard that you need to run the grinder really fast in order to get a good finish and that runing it slow gives sub-par results. As i mentioned, im not certain, but might be worth a try.
 
I don't think it's been mentioned. I've watched videos where the person holds the non moving wheel, and transverse the table/part under the wheel. They said it was to eliminate that ripple effect. Like "hand sanding" probably a finer grit, I don't remember?
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Does anyone run them vertical?
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I did on my KMG. I have also ran one horizontal.

Vertical is a ton of work, not bad for a few small things but not something you want to do for an hour. I usually surface grind for a couple of hours a week and it would be rough, the attachment must weigh 20+ pounds so imagine lifting that every few seconds. If you can't run horizotal I would not let that stop you though.
 
Daniel Fairly Knives said:
I did on my KMG. I have also ran one horizontal.

Vertical is a ton of work, not bad for a few small things but not something you want to do for an hour. I usually surface grind for a couple of hours a week and it would be rough, the attachment must weigh 20+ pounds so imagine lifting that every few seconds. If you can't run horizotal I would not let that stop you though.
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Thanks for the reply.
I'm a very low volume maker. I'm just weighing things out. ....hand grind tapers vs faster, more consistent with jig? Idk if it's worth it to me yet?

Maybe I should focus and make a tilting table?
Although the main reason would be for a sga.

Thanks.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Thanks for the reply.
I'm a very low volume maker. I'm just weighing things out. ....hand grind tapers vs faster, more consistent with jig? Idk if it's worth it to me yet?

Maybe I should focus and make a tilting table?
Although the main reason would be for a sga.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

It is a slow going process. I use mine to get folder parts flat and parallel.

There is a lot you can do with one especially if you can adjust angle... and on the other hand I don't do any of that stuff because I like to leave it set up as is, dialing back in is too tedious for me personally. I want to use mine (lost mine in a fire but getting another one) for random things eventually and get a big huge automatic surface grinder for folder parts. You can do cool stuff like grind straight bevels in, add a tooling plate, stops, etc.

For tapered tangs it is going to bring you accuracy with a time tradeoff as you go slow. I just do them by hand.

There is nothing wrong with keeping it simple, I wuld not get another one if I did not need to get my folder parts flat in house.

One super useful thing is a dedicated horizontal grinder. The reason is you keep it set up square and if anything needs perimeter touch up it is still square. With a flip over style grinder you are constantly fiddling with tool rests and stuff trying to get them set back to square.
 
Ltortorich said:
Guy's I'm having an issue with the surface grinder attachment that I built.
It makes things flat but i can see RIPPLES in the steel after using it.
I thought it might be an out of balance wheel but it does it no matter how fast or slow I move the steel.
Is this typical?
It is very hard to photograph.
Thanks for any help.
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The finer the grit or even the thinner the belt the more of an issue this will be.

A very slow pull with the belt running about 6-7 on my vfd gives good results. However this does run the risk of heat build up. This is especially problematic on finer grit belts. You could set up a water misting system to keep everything cooler if surface finish is critical.
 
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