Survival .22 Rifle

Gee, I like that. You'd have to practice a special grip with your forward hand so that you didn't obscure your foresight. A handy bit of kit to have stashed away.
 
hmm. get the ruger 10-22.. best all around .22 rifle with loads of add-ons.. super reliable.. cheap to shoot.. imo it should be everyone's first rifle. I think I learned on it at YMCA camp when I was like 11, 12 or 13.. foggy memory.. I ended up buying one years later.. still have it 20 some years later.. and it fires straight as ever.
 
Handwrecker said:
In my opinion, you will get a lot more gun for the money if you look into the Marlin 60 or 795 than you will with the 597 or 10-22. I picked up a model 60 for $100, and it's a tack driver. Every stock 10-22 that I've ever shot has been significantly less accurate than my 60, unless you dump some money into it. On the upside, if you want to spend money, you can turn a 10-22 into just about anything. I've never heard many good words about the 597, just some problems with the magazines and feeding. I've also seen the Henry collapsable survival rifles have trouble feeding often. The ones I've seen at the range seem to turn into single shots quick.

This forum can definitely help you out with any of your rimfire needs:

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/index.php

If you want a gun strictly for survival, the Springfield M6's are awesome. .22 and .410 over/under. They are discontinued though, so finding one can be hard.

m6-2.jpg
Click to expand...



Hmmm just noticed this after my post.. I have one of these too.. did not know they were discontinued.. cheesy gun they be.. they work though for what it is.. maybe I should sell mine.. been in the closet forever...
 
w/ the right ammo guys (kids :)) are getting .5-.75" groups at 25 yards w/ open sights, not too shabby
 
That is a squirrel or a rabbit in the pot every time. You don't really need much more than this for a simple meat-getter.
 
coote said:
I took my Ruger 10-22 with me on a recent trip away. Up until this holiday I had done little more than simply fit a second-hand scope to the rifle and sight it in. I wanted to become more familiar with it.

I am impressed.

I had been worried about the relatively 'hard' trigger pull compared to other rifles I have used. But I found I soon adapted to it.

It is a nice compact, accurate rifle with a good magazine capacity.

There wasn't enough barrel forward of the foresight to make a thread for a screw-on silencer, but I got a local guy to make a special one out of plastic for me. This slides into place and is secured with one small stainless steel hose clamp.

A couple of times I had feeding problems with cartridge cases not being thrown clear of the bolt. However I was using low velocity ammo that had quite a bit of wax on it.

I shot one quick five-shot group at around 25 meters or more that probably could be described as a 3/4" group. I had nothing with me to measure it, but for a hunting rifle that would seldom be used at ranges over 50 meters, the result is good enough .... especially when you consider that the relatively large size of the group could at least have been partially caused by operator shake. I was just lying down leaning over a log and was shooting deliberately fast.

One thing I don't like about the rifle is that it is relatively hard to manually load a single shot into the chamber. However that is something that doesn't have to be done all the time, and it isn't the only semi-auto like it.

Next time I have the opportunity to hunt with a .22 I will seriously consider taking the Ruger rather than my old, well-proven silenced Anschutz bolt-action. I am especially likely to take the 10-22 if I am likely to come across bigger animals.

My wife enjoyed using it too.

JackieRugerJuly11.jpg
Click to expand...

DAQ muzzle coupling to put a fake/real suppressor.

Get the power custom hammer for 25 or so dollars. Drops the trigger down to 2.75. My main thing I HATED about my 10/22 was the trigger. with the power custom hammer I LOVE it especially for the low cost to get a LOT better trigger.

Mine cycles remington subsonics no problem. I hand cycle my cb longs/cb shorts/sub sonic handloads/aguilla etc.
 
Thanks Scottman. I will keep my eye out for those accessories. Down here in NZ I don't see much like that advertised locally, but then I haven't really been looking.
 
mistwalker said:
With an auto loader I think about 40 or 50 % of the power of the round is spent in kicking out the brass and loading the next round.
Click to expand...

Sorry to call you out, but I call BS on that one. .22's operate on blowback style actions which means there is no mechanism holding the round in place aside from the action spring (there is no gas port like on centerfire semi-autos). The pressure in the barrel has to drop significantly (as in after the bullet has left the barrel) before the friction of the sidewall of the .22 case can move to cycle the next round. The only way for gas to escape is through the front or rear of the barrel, so if you were to loose power, that would mean a semi-auto .22 would by design be ejecting hot gas into your face! When a cartridge splits in the chamber, this is due to not being fully supported. If the .22 brass was ejected while the bullet was still in the barrel (as you are implying), then every piece of brass would be split...
 
I have taken more game (in numbers) with a single shot bolt action .22 (made by Anschutz) than any of my centre fire rifles. Dead accurate out to 100 yards. Pair it with a good scope (4x is about perfect) and you'll be set. I've used the so-called 'survival' .22s that take down, but none of them were accurate beyond about 10 feet.
 
Hey Alberta Ed, what distance do you 'zero' your rifle at when sighting it in?

And being a single shot, how do you carry your spare ammo?

I use .22s a lot, but those are two questions that are always on my mind. I used to zero my rifles for 25 yards, but the last time I sighted one I did it for about 50 yards.

Sometimes I've stretched a bit of rubber like a balloon or a bit of rubber glove around the barrel and forestock of my single shot. I then poke a cartridge or two under the rubber so I can grab one quickly.

Thanks in advance... Coote.
 
Scottman said:
Agp 10/22 Folding Stock :)
Click to expand...

Scottman, thanks for the review. I picked up one of the AGP stocks and just put it on my son's 16" barrel 10/22. I really like it compared to my Butler Creek. The stock is a little short (perfect for my son), but it looks like spacers should be available...it's also has a better cheek weld. I'll need to get picture up (camera challenged at the moment:( ).

I do admit mtwarden's link to that Tigoat mod is pretty cool...wonder if I could make it work for the older Chipmunk?

ROCK6
 
no problem, glad it's working out, light weight huh?? I'm sure the tigoat works with the chipmunk- or the concept is. I don't like single shots when it get's cold. Me "favorite" rifle is a savage single shot I paid 21 dollars for back when I was 15, I hate trying to load a single tiny 22 cartridge into the pipe by hand in the fall/winter. I've killed a lot of game with that rifle in the early (warm) season. Fine for the warm climates, but not a rifle that gives me options throughout the whole year. I like detachable magazine fed weapons that I can get my paws on the mags and have no problem loading them.

coote, I'm sure if the 10/22 is as popular in your country as it is here, you won't have a problem ;)
 
just got my scout a few mounths back at a local gun show for $400 i steal at that price and it's the older model i love it as much as my noveske afgan

66b0xg.jpg

25oyplu.jpg
 
My vote is for the ruger 10-22.
I've had one for 20 years with about 25,000 rds through it.
Great gun for the money.
 
not Ed but... for a high velocity .22lr....a point of impact 1/2 inch high at 40y will cross line of sight (that is be dead on) where it is rising at 20y and dropping at 60y so you will be no more than 1/2 inch off between those two distances... standard velocity is a slightly less on both ends...the trajectory really drops off past 75yards....
 
Hmmm. Thanks Les. It makes sense. When I was younger I got the idea that if you sighted your rifle for 25 yards, it would be fairly right at 75 yards.... and that seems fairly close to what you are saying although I've never done any measured tests.
 
coote... the trajectory curve came from published data....I shot the Chevy Truck Sportsman's Team Challenge for 5 years...it was a real learning experience trying to make an accurate autoloader (10/22)...one 90y target was a star cutout in a face plate 1 1/2 inches tall/wide with a falling plate behind it, and bonus target 1 inch diameter at 75y (standing offhand).... for rimfire cartridges the rim headspace is a real challenge, and it is hard to get bolt gun accuracy with an autoloader

for a single shot "survival gun" here in the US, I would look for an older wood stocked Savage 24C (campers companion) over/under .22lr over 20gauge (not sure if they make a .22lr/12 gauge combo)... slugs for large toothy critters both two and four legged

bicycle inner tube around the forend...slip a couple of .22 rounds under the band for quick follow up shots
 
mistwalker said:
With an auto loader I think about 40 or 50 % of the power of the round is spent in kicking out the brass and loading the next round.
Click to expand...
This is not accurate. All rounds have an equal and opposite force applied toward the shooter. Autos make use of this force by ejecting the shell where a bolt action transfers the energy to the shooter(more recoil).

Out of the guns you picked I would choose the 10/22 just for after market upgrades. Some of which aren't cosmetic tacticool. I have a polished hammer for Valquartsen that makes the trigger light and crisp. If that isn't something you care about then any of the three are fine. Get the one that fits you best.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top