SURVIVE! GSO-10 initial review with photos (warning: pic-heavy)

Regarding use:

In the video i hope to post, I used the GSO-10 to chop through a 2.5"-D seasoned oak limb. It took ~3x longer (and more effort) to complete the task than using a Bahco folding saw, but it did the job with NO observable edge deformation or loss of sharpness despite deep bites and twisting/prying out chunks after each hard impact. The edge geometry with this steel is plenty robust for such a task. In contrast, the cheap machete with similar edge geometry binds readily and is too flexible for effective prying, and the edge compresses and chips if it isn't left more obtuse.

Chopping into softer wood, the GSO-10 bites DEEP, much deeper than my Wetterlings/Husqvarna hatchet and also the Rodent 9, almost as deep as my 18" blade 1/8"-thick machete. But while it is less prone to binding than the machete, its thin geometry does not pop out chunks of wood the way the thicker-edged tools do. This is a short, heavy machete. I've yet to test it on grasses and brambles (for which I tend to prefer a lighter tool with longer reach anyway), but I prefer it to the longer machete for de-limbing fallen trees, etc. as it is more compact and has a stronger edge.

Again, I am surprised by how comfortable the handle is! The spine hump conforms nicely to the shape of my hand and guides shock up into my arm rather than antagonizing my hand as straight hatchet handles do. Also, the more rectangular cross-section of the handle eliminates unintended twisting, common with both the hatchet and traditional HI Khukuri handle. The severe flare of the khukuri handle impacts the pinkie-finger and thumb-base uncomfortably, while the GSO-10 birds-beak is only noticable by the retention it offers. I wish to use the tool with more regularity before giving preference to either the GSO-10 or Rodent 9 handle design which I am also fond of. The GSO-10 handle is similar to the old school Swamp Rat design.

Drilling with the tip was not as effective as with the Rodent 9 :p

The spine isn't very effective for striking a ferro-rod - it can be done but requires a lot of pressure - so use a dedicated striker or just use a section of cutting edge... or dremel-out a section of spine as desired.


I'll keep adding to this review as opportunity allows. I do hope that these knives are getting into the hands of more users who can provide better images and more data for potential customers thinking about purchasing from SURVIVE! From what I've read, nearly all of the promotional knives have been shipped. I am waiting on a couple more, different handle scales and one coated blade. Stay tuned...
 
Great looking knife and looks like a great cutter. At 3/16 it may not have the heft compared to heavier choppers, but with good geometry it won't be far behind. Even at the current price it is a great value. I'd love to get one.
 
If you find yourself unhappy with the GSO 10 I would be happy to take it off your hands =). I am a bit late on the preorder for the GSO 10 but am awaiting the 4.1 and 5.1.
 
I think the only thing missing on a knife that size is a forward lanyard hole. :)

Looks like an awesome knife, and excellent review. :D
 
Posting a new video, some scraping/carving/cutting. Also featured at the end is a ScrapMax 460 ...

[video=youtube;ZvAq4H7ktSk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvAq4H7ktSk&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
I've posted it elsewhere, but I'll post it here as well to consolidate my GSO-10 videos.

I've been using my GSO-10 a lot to cut branches, limb fallen and felled trees, scrape bark from future fence-posts, clear trails, etc. During the winter, I did leave my knife over-night in a wet sheath and found "Freckles" of rust in the morning but wiped these off pretty easily and left the blade lightly oiled until the next use. This summer, after clearng a trail for my fence-line, I again left the blade over-night in the sheath and found the blade freckled in the morning. I took the time to take a few "beauty" shots and a video:

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[video=youtube;IZe4T50nrog]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZe4T50nrog[/video]

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As Guy is shipping his second batch of GSO 10s, I thought that I would bump this review.
 
Good idea. I actually just picked up a factory Seconds GSO 10 from guy a few days ago... Eagerly awaiting its arrival!
 
I've posted it elsewhere, but I'll post it here as well to consolidate my GSO-10 videos.

I've been using my GSO-10 a lot to cut branches, limb fallen and felled trees, scrape bark from future fence-posts, clear trails, etc. During the winter, I did leave my knife over-night in a wet sheath and found "Freckles" of rust in the morning but wiped these off pretty easily and left the blade lightly oiled until the next use. This summer, after clearng a trail for my fence-line, I again left the blade over-night in the sheath and found the blade freckled in the morning. I took the time to take a few "beauty" shots and a video:

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[video=youtube;IZe4T50nrog]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZe4T50nrog[/video]

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I would say that rusting looks quite aggresive...
 
I would say that rusting looks quite aggresive...

It took some effort to nail that last pic of the remaining nodes. As you can see in the video, the black on the blade in the first pics is just oil&dirt caked on the blade from the work i was doing, the orange "freckles" are pits of corrosion, and you can even see the faint 'smearing' from inserting and removing the knife from the kydex sheath. This is not the first instance of this corrosion, I achieved it in the winter after working outside in the cold and snow and then leaving the knife in the sheath in my basement when i came in for the night. Then as now, most simply rubbed out with a little soap&water and #0000 steel wool as it was just clinging to the surface. It is entirely possible that the nodes here were established then. But the soil around me is quite sandy, the pits probably focused at points where granules remained on the blade or cut into the surface of the steel. I am not gentle with my "hard use" tools. I also posted this because you so rarely see images of rusted CPM-3V though i am sure it happens.

Anyway, there has been no further instances of this and I will post a new pic and video soon showing the blade resharpened and also re-demonstrating my leg-carry method.

New owners, feel free to post images and comments/criticisms of the GSO-10 2.0 here if you'd rather not start a new thread. I am interested to see how the handles and blade edge-geometry are different. :thumbup:
 
Thank you for the great review and pictures. I find it funny the sheath is wider then some of my blades are long.
 
Here is a quick (poorly lit, quiet to not wake children) video of the GSO-10 now, no further corrosion and edge mostly restored, with my most common carry method:

[video=youtube_share;IpI_6BqrV80]http://youtu.be/IpI_6BqrV80[/video]
 
Here's what I did to resolve the drop loop issue on my GSO 5.1. I used the heavy duty nylon since it fits well with the intended use of Guy's knives. Everything in this package is done by me, including the antler firesteel and loop.
This one is already sold but I'm making more.
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By the way. All .080 or .090 kydex. All fasteners are either solid brass (black coated) and/or black oxide alloy steel. These beasts need heavy duty hardware. :D
 
Your set-up rides too high.

Also, you cannot sell your own products on BF without a "service provider" membership, so please refrain from using my thread to advertise your wares. Thank you.
 
Adding images of the scale-liners i made from an old wheel-barrow inner-tube at recommendation from FTR-14c. Didn't spend more than a few minutes on them, and what a difference they make! I do not believe that the rubber material itself dampens impact but the added width fills my hand better to better distribute the force. I could be wrong, the rubber might make a difference in-and-of itself.

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