Swapping Blades *Question*

Flatlander1963

Flatlander1963

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Jan 28, 2008
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This question is in regards to swapping a S30V blade in to a 3 dot frame. Someone told me (Pete I think) that the newer blades are difficult to fit into older frames. I'm hoping that this swap I want to do is in fact doable. I saw a 420hc in a 5th version frame so...what do you guys think??
 
:cool:...Hey "Flatsky"...I think the problem you mention might refer to the problem that arises when trying to swap a newer blade into a frame that was made for the "non-bushing'd" blades of way-back...LOL...I put a "newer" 2005 blade in an old 3 dot frame for a friend who busted his blade off with no problem...The 3 dot version is where Buck started out with the bushing...Try it...:D
 
You may also have to swap in the new style backspring...IIRC, the notch in the blade (and the decreasing radius of the tang sweep) are different...
 
Well this is the 3 dot. The S30V blade is coming from a knife that is only several years old that had the S30V blade installed in it as a replacement I assume. I traded for it with babakanoosh45. Also, I have the two 420hc blades from the Leavitt damascus project and will use one of these to go back in the babakanoosh frame.

Trax, Are you saying it won't work with out changing the backspring?
I was hoping to avoid removing the rocker rivet.

238521211_o1.jpg
 
Question - How do you guys remove the rivets, I have been wandering about that for awhile.............:confused:
 
Flatlander1963 said:
Well this is the 3 dot. The S30V blade is coming from a knife that is only several years old that had the S30V blade installed in it as a replacement I assume. ...
Trax, Are you saying it won't work with out changing the backspring?
I was hoping to avoid removing the rocker rivet.
Click to expand...

there are times when that is necessary i was told that by joe once
gee i go t snoked by .58 cents on that listing.. hee hee jest teasing ya my friend good snipe shooting:thumbup::cool:... did you use the 22cent approach?:D;):thumbup:
 
Flatlander1963 said:
Trax, Are you saying it won't work with out changing the backspring?
I was hoping to avoid removing the rocker rivet.
Click to expand...

:cool:...Flat...I did once have to "tweak" a back spring to allow decent seating in the blade. I was lucky in that it was sitting proud of the notch...I "tweaked" it with my HF 1x30 with some 1200 grit belts I bought from some chick on fleaBay...I didn't have to remove the rocker rivet...I just swung it out and had more than enough room to smooth it in perfectly...If it sits too deep into the notch you may have to do some gentle "peening" or look for a new back spring...Then the rivet has to go...:eek:
 
Dave,

Used $XX.55 on that one.

Darrel,

Thanks for that pointer. I'll just have to get into it and see if its a matter of a little shaping. I hope so.

I suppose I should also talk to Joe and see if he'll have those blades swapped for me.
If I need a modern back spring, I'll be one short if I want to put both knives back together.

I do have a spare backspring off a 4 dot but I'm guessing its the same and the backspring on the three dot???
 
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:cool:...Try the fit of the new blade out first...It may need no "tweaking" to be a proper fit...Use a slave pin in the pivot hole...anything .125 dia will work...No need to do anything to the back spring yet...
 
Sounds like a Plan.

I'll try that first and see how it goes. If I'm lucky it'll pop in like a dream.
Thanks for the again for the pointers. I'll keep you posted on the effort.
 
yes i would like to follow your progress on this one!
.55 worked !
now will try that ! hee hee jest joshing now!
 
Redrummd said:
It would be kind if one would answer this question.
Click to expand...

the rivets are peaned over with a rotating dealey and have a mushroom type cape on them..
you can not drive them out that i know of with out damaging the inlay..
i have sanded the head off to put on rubber handles..
but this will always do some marking on the inlay
Leroy Remer is a pro and i have knives he changed the rocker out on for me and the orgional inlays left in place
but i have no idea how he does this majic ..of not damaging the inlays..voodoo maby?

as i cannot recommend his work enough ... he is the master on repair like you want it!

of course if you dont care of what blade Buck would put in it
you can send it to Joe and it will be fixed perfectly also
 
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Redrummd said:
It would be kind if one would answer this question.
Click to expand...

:cool:...Redrummd...Rocker rivets have to have the head ground off and then it's pushed through to the other side. On bolster rivets I used a 1 ton arbor press. I made up a small jig to hold the knife securely and drove the rivets out with a .093 diameter pin inserted into the jig. That way the pin nor the knife moves...The top plate is 1/2 inch plexi-glas so I can see that the pin is on the rivet and not on the bolster...I modeled my jig after Trax's jig design...I'd take a picture but I haven't used it in quite some time and since my wife has gone through 3 or 4 "cleaning frenzies"...:eek:...in the garage in the last few months I have no idea where the damn thing is...:mad:
 
wow i can relate to thoes clean frenzies!
but when you pounch out does it mess up the wood on the inlay any?
 
:cool:...There's always the possibility of hurting the inlay on the side you grind the head off from. That's due to not being careful enough with the grinder or sander. On the other side, where the rivet comes out, there has been no damage. That's not to say it couldn't happen though**...:eek:

**- Standard disclaimer absolving me of any and all responsibility should you totally TRASH yer knife -...:eek:...:D
 
hee hee hee
notice took of your disclaimer! love it .. does trax also have a disclamer?
**- Standard disclaimer absolving me of any and all responsibility should you totally TRASH yer knife -..
 
Thanks guys, I don't plan on trying it I was just wandering how it was done. I have looked them over real good but could not see a way with out grinding........:confused:
 
I clamp mine in a mill vise and mill the heads off. I also have a sort of jig that i use to press the bolster pins out. Takes like 5 minutes to strip the 110 down to individual parts (OK, I'm bragging...it takes 10 minutes...) :D.

Lemme see if I can find a set of blades/backsprings to show the differences...

here we go...new style on top, old on bottom...

110blades.jpg


And here's what a scale looks like after milling the backspring rivet off...Not a big deal; it would sand/buff right out...

rivets.jpg
 
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