Swedge without the plunge

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gatorforge

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Jul 2, 2010
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So I’ve started grinding sledges on some of my knives. Typically I grind it in pretty far back to keep the plunge lines away from the tip where they might interfere with any sort of puncturing task.

Recently I’ve seen quite a few makers grinding swedges that don’t have plunge lines basically seem to flow out of the spine. I haven’t quite figured out how to sting them this way, although I’m typically working with a flat platten. Any assistance would help.

Thanks,
Lance
 
Are you talking like a gradual transition that ends up making the swedge look like a gradual taper from the side?
 
I think you and I are on the same page.

here’s one of my WIP knives (not a great shot for these purposes)
Krnsu1R.jpg


And here is what I would like to emulate for certain designs. This one is a Chris Taylor

vm9cdb6.jpg
 
That was what i thought you were talking about. although i am not the most skilled knife maker i find it works if you just start gradually at an angle to the platten so that the edge of the belt farthest from the tip wont dig into the blade starting the swedge towards the tip and working your way back if you grind the swedge before the main bevels or prior to heat treat you shouldn't overheat the tip accidentally. I personally find this type of swedge easier than one with a distinct plunge but it depends on how you normally grind your blades it is also easier with drop point or spear point profiles.
 
Couldn't you hold the knife vertically to grind that swedge? I'm thinking pointing the tip down. The only swedge I've ever done, I held the blade up and down with the tip pointed towards the ground. That knife had a harpoon clip/thumb ramp but I would imagine that technique would produce a similar result as the picture above.
 
before you do your main blade bevels, scribe a center line on your spine. use a flat platen, set your tool rest between 60-70 degrees. (try 60 for your first time). you have to press very lightly when you start the swedge, and apply more pressure as you slide it across. that will make those little angled ramps instead of a plunge. once you are past the little ramps, keep the pressure and speed of pulling the blade across very consistent, or you will bumps and low spots. you can fix those between changing belts with drawfiling, to get and humps down. cut a knife profile out of 1/4" plywood and try it first.
 
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I just did one, although it was a bit of a harpoon tip. If you'll see the right side inset, you can see the spine tapering down. The swedge on this was sharpened. Don't over-think it. It's a flat ground bevel. Go slow, use a 120 or so, not a 36, and grind it in the same way you grind your regular bevels.
Fry_200713-wweb.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Jason Fry said:
I just did one, although it was a bit of a harpoon tip. If you'll see the right side inset, you can see the spine tapering down. The swedge on this was sharpened. Don't over-think it. It's a flat ground bevel. Go slow, use a 120 or so, not a 36, and grind it in the same way you grind your regular bevels.
Fry_200713-wweb.jpg
[/IMG]
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That knife is a thing of beauty nice work.
 
Hold the blade vertically with the angle you want against the platen if you want the smooth transition I do it with a maroon scotch brite then blue scotch brite belt.
 
There are three ways to do this. One is the harpoon tip like Jason’s. The second is a more subtle transition between the raised clip and spine, this results in the spine taking on a triangle shape. Both of these allow the swedge to be sharpened all the way back. The third is to blend the spine into the swedge, and this results in a clip that is only sharpened about 1/3 the way back. I’ll draw some pictures later today if I have time. Most of my non kitchen knives have a swedge or raised clip. Maybe I’ll get my wife to video how I grind them.
 
Willie71 said:
There are three ways to do this. One is the harpoon tip like Jason’s. The second is a more subtle transition between the raised clip and spine, this results in the spine taking on a triangle shape. Both of these allow the swedge to be sharpened all the way back. The third is to blend the spine into the swedge, and this results in a clip that is only sharpened about 1/3 the way back. I’ll draw some pictures later today if I have time. Most of my non kitchen knives have a swedge or raised clip. Maybe I’ll get my wife to video how I grind them.
Click to expand...

Willie71 Willie71
if you could take a video of this I (and I’m sure the OP) would be massively grateful. Haven’t been able to find anything on YouTube or otherwise that I can visually study. I appreciate the consideration!
 
pmbspyder said:
Willie71 Willie71
if you could take a video of this I (and I’m sure the OP) would be massively grateful. Haven’t been able to find anything on YouTube or otherwise that I can visually study. I appreciate the consideration!
Click to expand...
I’ll do my best to get a quick video in. I’m heading out of town next week, for a week.
 
Thank you all so much for the great responses! Willie71 Willie71 the last method you mentioned is exactly what I had in mind, a smooth taper rather than just another bevel with plunge.

Having said that J Jason Fry that knife does look gorgeous
 
gatorforge said:
Thank you all so much for the great responses! Willie71 Willie71 the last method you mentioned is exactly what I had in mind, a smooth taper rather than just another bevel with plunge.

Having said that J Jason Fry that knife does look gorgeous
Click to expand...

I’m hoping to do a quick video tomorrow and post it before I go on vacation on Monday. My grinder needs a freshening, so don’t judge it. I need to make a new tooling arm, recrown the tracking wheel and drive wheel, and set a new platten.

I’ve had a crazy week with my real job. I haven’t been out in the shop all week. My last session before my vacation is coming up in 12 minutes, then 9 days off....
 
Lot’s of good advice above. I also do mine like Jason. My grinder (Black Fox) can move into the horizontal position which seems to make this process a little easier. One additional tip that works for me is to stay on the belt to 400 grit and then carefully block finish to the highest grit you intend to go to BEFORE grinding your blade bevels. This helps me preserve crisp lines between the swedge and primary bevels.
A49AA96C-17FE-4E9C-BB19-571E71EE4F70.jpeg
 
CThompson said:
Lot’s of good advice above. I also do mine like Jason. My grinder (Black Fox) can move into the horizontal position which seems to make this process a little easier. One additional tip that works for me is to stay on the belt to 400 grit and then carefully block finish to the highest grit you intend to go to BEFORE grinding your blade bevels. This helps me preserve crisp lines between the swedge and primary bevels.
View attachment 1389001
Click to expand...
Not super relevant to the conversation but what is that handle material?
 
GABaus said:
Not super relevant to the conversation but what is that handle material?
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This is a piece of raw Pre-1972-act walrus tusk ivory, not fossilized. 100% legal (for now.) It had been in the family since the 60’s and my father finally decided I could use it. Kinda cool.
 
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