T Handled Augers - Post them up!

I'm about to crash, so no pics.

. . .

Did a search and found this pic:


I didn't know about ratcheting augers. Always like learning about old tools. Thanks for posting. Here is some more info:

"T-augers

The Millers Falls Company’s 1897 catalog is notable for its four T-auger handles—two of them labeled as Pratt’s, one Rogers’s and another Gunn’s.(3) The T-auger handles used by most workmen were simple tools, being little more than a stick with a square hole in the center for holding the bit. In the hands of a burly workman, the device is surprisingly effective with its biggest drawback being that the hands are repositioned at least twice during each during each rotation of the tool. A worker could easily overcome this difficulty by choosing one of the company’s high-end, ratcheting models (the Gunn model or one of the Pratts). The ratcheting auger handles also made provision for a user finding himself in a situation with inadequate clearance for a full rotation. An arm needed only to be detached and screwed into an opening at the handle’s top to convert the tool into an oversized, ratcheting corner brace. The advent of the more sophisticated boring machines did not, as one might expect, sound a death knell for the traditional T-auger. The T-auger’s easy portability, its flexibility in a variety of work situations and its modest cost were factors ensuring continuing popularity. Pratt’s auger handle no. 4 was considered the top of the line and cost dealers a mere $24.00 per dozen. The cheapest model, the non-ratcheting Pratt, cost fifty cents each if purchased in similar quantities."

From: http://oldtoolheaven.com/history/history5.htm
 
Yep. I augered a 12" hole through the end grain of a post using mine. Easy Peasy.

The handle on the right unscrews and can be attached to the top and you get the corner brace function.

I gave away my other T handles once I found this one.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I took the grinder to it and it worked very well. Just in time to tap some trees.
 
garry3, you're very welcome.

You can get one of these in decent shape for less than $20 pretty easily.

I just checked that auction site and I saw one for $49 (which is high) , and one for $125 (which is insane).

It's like buying a brace. You'll want to check that it ratchets in both directions when you move the pawl. Check for damage on the jaws. Loosen the chuck so you can feel the spring tension in the jaws. Check that you can unscrew the handle and insert it into the top without the threads getting stuck on anything. Cosmetic issues and rust are easy to fix.

These things are built like tanks.
 
garry3, you're very welcome.

You can get one of these in decent shape for less than $20 pretty easily.

I just checked that auction site and I saw one for $49 (which is high) , and one for $125 (which is insane).

It's like buying a brace. You'll want to check that it ratchets in both directions when you move the pawl. Check for damage on the jaws. Loosen the chuck so you can feel the spring tension in the jaws. Check that you can unscrew the handle and insert it into the top without the threads getting stuck on anything. Cosmetic issues and rust are easy to fix.

These things are built like tanks.

OK, Thank you for the heads up and what to look for.
 
I've got one of them ratcheting handles. Will dig it out and snap a picture if I remember. :)
 
Added a new one recently, 1-1/4" x 30".

Auger%201.jpg



I think it was farm shop modified. Looks like it started life as a store bought auger but then somebody forge welded a longer shaft to it. There's an obvious weld.

Auger%202.jpg



The top of the steel shaft was simply folded over and squared on the anvil. The handle was whittled by hand.

Auger%203.jpg
 
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Added a new one recently, 1-1/4" x 30". . .

That's a neat find, thanks for posting it. That length seems to be uncommon. I've seen pictures of a couple in the 27" to 28" range which as far as I could tell were manufactured that way. I wonder in what situations the extra reach was needed?
 
I wonder in what situations the extra reach was needed?

I wondered the same thing. This was found in a Central Washington antique shop. The area was settled by homesteaders around the turn of the century. Then there was a wave new folk during the Great Depression. The resulting population tended to be very good at taking care of themselves. Virtually every farm had a blacksmith shop back then. It's common to find one-off tools made for some specific need. I'd guess that this was made either for boring large timbers (which the area was famous for) or for drilling while standing up where more reach was desired.

A glimpse into the mindset of this era can be found in the publication 'Farm Shop Practice', 1939.

http://cedarriverforge.com/Life Skills/Farm Shop Practice.pdf


The same 'fix it or make it yourself' mindset permeates Alex Weyger's book 'The Complete Modern Blacksmith'.

http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Mode...r=8-1&keywords=the+complete+modern+blacksmith

Weygers was trained in a Belgian shipwrights school where apprentices were taught to make anything on a steamship from scratch while at sea in the ship shop. He went on to have a long career as a blacksmith and a blacksmithing instructor. His book is essential reading for anyone interested in vintage tools.
 
Hi guys, here is an old bathered T auger ive found at the flea market, it has since been cleaned, sharpened and coated with wax by me, but the active rust had already done tone of damage, you can even see the metal strands in the twist.

Anyone got some info on this odd stamping on the side??? D81M'C gives nothing on google search...

thanks
21lpi53.jpg
 
.....but the active rust had already done tone of damage, you can even see the metal strands in the twist.


That's characteristic of wrought iron. I'd look for a transition to steel near the cutting edge. If it's wrought iron it's very old, likely 1870's or earlier.
 
I rarely see those little gimlets around here. Pretty cool looking. I'll have to keep my eyes open. Thanks for sharing those.
 
That's characteristic of wrought iron. I'd look for a transition to steel near the cutting edge. If it's wrought iron it's very old, likely 1870's or earlier.

I have doublechecked and i could not find any indication of a forge welded steel part at the tip, maybe its all steel an the corrosion messed it up? i cant say for sure. still curious about the stamping tho!
 
No wooden handles, but Lee Valley sells French(?) made gimlets for a reasonable price. I've had my set for almost 10 years.

Yeah, I'm a neander woodworker branching out here.
 
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