Tanto - Aizu Shintogo Project

Ura is the "hidden" side. Omote is the "show" side. As far as I know, that is the same for any Japanese hand held weapon.

If the sword is made for a left hand, then the sides would seem reversed when looking at it in a kake ( stand), but would appear correct when in the left hand.
 
Hi,

I finished the project, at least this version of it anyway.

It is not a true tanto, but at least I got some experience building it to this point. Nothing to write home about, I know.

Next one should be better. I can only go up from here, LOL.

Thank you all for the help and guidance along the build. Learned a lot.


Some details,

The habaki is copper and was left with the fire patina.

The guard is nickel silver, mate one the front and back and mirror finished on the edge.

The handle is a piece of maple that I had around, stained with leather die and finished with 2 coats of "tru oil", gun stock finish.

Now I know why Stacy said, drill the tang at the end!

The mekugi (really just a pin with peened ends) is coper and I did glued in the handle. I know, sacrilege :eek:.

Here are some pics:

Tanto-2.jpg



Tanto-3.jpg


Tanto-4.jpg


Thanks again,
Constantin
 
Good job. Don't be too worried about the glued up handle. I see a lot of them on non-traditional tanto.

A tip on doing copper fittings:
Pickle the copper and sand/texture/polish it as desired. Then use copper patination solutions to get the amount of patina you want.
I like to soak them in livers of sulfur and get a shiny black color that looks like ancient shibuichi (copper/silver metal). The solutions can be purchased as copper black, brass black, silver black, and livers of sulfur concentrate ( looks like molasses). Multiple soaks and scrubs with steel wool get the best look.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Good job. Don't be too worried about the glued up handle. I see a lot of them on non-traditional tanto.

A tip on doing copper fittings:
Pickle the copper and sand/texture/polish it as desired. Then use copper patination solutions to get the amount of patina you want.
I like to soak them in livers of sulfur and get a shiny black color that looks like ancient shibuichi (copper/silver metal). The solutions can be purchased as copper black, brass black, silver black, and livers of sulfur concentrate ( looks like molasses). Multiple soaks and scrubs with steel wool get the best look.
Click to expand...

Great, thanks again Stacy, really appreciated.
 
I get it from a local wood company. I buy 6/4 boards ( 1.5" thick) and cut my own scales. The company I use is Yukon Lumber. They have a big warehouse of all kinds of rough sawn wood in large sizes. One 6 foot to 8 foot plank can last many years. It is pretty cheap that way, too.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I get it from a local wood company. I buy 6/4 boards ( 1.5" thick) and cut my own scales. The company I use is Yukon Lumber. They have a big warehouse of all kinds of rough sawn wood in large sizes. One 6 foot to 8 foot plank can last many years. It is pretty cheap that way, too.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks.

So you actually split the plank to get 0.75” thick scales ?
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith , I got in touch with a local company for wood.

They’ve asked me if I want “flat sawn” or “vertical grain” cut boards?

Please help and educate me on the choice!

Thanks in advance,
Constantin
 
Flat sawn will have loops, angles, arches, and curves of grain across the face. Vertical grain has the lines going from end to end in a fairly straight and even pattern. Both work fine, but I like vertical grain for saya projects. It is best to look at the board and decide which looks best to you. Also, every board is different, so looking through the stack is wise on a project like a saya.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Flat sawn will have loops, angles, arches, and curves of grain across the face. Vertical grain has the lines going from end to end in a fairly straight and even pattern. Both work fine, but I like vertical grain for saya projects. It is best to look at the board and decide which looks best to you. Also, every board is different, so looking through the stack is wise on a project like a saya.
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks.
 
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