Tell me about Survive! S7 steel, how does it compare to others?

I seriously doubt much alteration was made, but something supposedly was done beyond just HT

Thank you. I was hoping to find a composition which could tell me if it was truly a different composition, one that just has the usual differences, or something like S7 ESR/Mold Quality.

Not that it matters really, or it's my business what he decides to use. Companies should be allowed to have proprietary info . It's their money and hard work after all. I'm just curious and don't mean to be nosy.

:)

Joe
 
true i may not notice, I just want the best steel for my money. I watched gideonstactical review and he seems to like S7, are those that are against it tried it?

Here is my video of the SK-4 in S7 shock steel:

[video=youtube;hj_1lrnQIkA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hj_1lrnQIkA[/video]


Here is the GSO-4.1 in M390 steel:

[video=youtube;pVsKMAlYAcU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pVsKMAlYAcU[/video]

Obviously these videos are not identical, but something I hope they show is that, at this geometry (~0.028", 15-20 dps) it would take some SERIOUS abuse to note a difference between S7 and even M390 except perhaps at the very edge if pounding against cement/bricks/etc. However, the M390 (like the 3V) was HT's slightly harder than the S7 so will hold that edge longer in other non-abrasive cutting tasks. In abrasive cutting tasks, it will hold its edge MUCH longer. If you thinned the geometry down to 0.015" 15-dps, or 0.010" 10-dps with a 15-20 microbevel, the wear-resistance of the high-V steel will be even higher than the S7, but then you may start to notice a difference in how blunting occurs in various uses. The slightly softer but much tougher S7 wears away in abrasive cutting and starts to fold in non-abrasive. Keeping a simple steel handy, one could fold the edge back into alignment quickly/easily, or for a worn-edge one can grind a new microbevel fairly quickly on most hones. With the High-V steel, you can still steel a folded edge back into alignment, but the lower toughness means it'll crack away after fewer re-alignments and require establishment of a new bevel, and honing demands good SiC or diamond equipment. Temper that with the harder high-V steel not folding as easily to begin with, keeping that sharp edge longer.

My point - with the proper equipment and technique, even M390 takes no longer to sharpen than S7, but it stays sharper (low apex diameter) longer. BUT if you lack that equipment or technique, S7 will be easier to work with and will also present you more opportunity to practice ;) S7 is more than capable as a knife steel, esp. compared to something like 1095 left softer than 60Rc, unless you do a lot of abrasive cutting. These knives are for hard outdoor-use, they are not rope & box cutters, not razor-blades. If you think a Mora or Becker or ESEE can get the job done, the steel in this knife can do it 'better'. But if you want a corrosion-resistant stone-washed satin blade or do a lot of abrasive cutting, CPM-3V or -20CV might be worth it to you. Those models are made lighter w/ better balance and customizable sheath & scales - you are paying for that as well as the upgraded steel. Personally, i don't do that much abrasive cutting, like the ease of just steeling my edge to keep it sharp, the cerakote blade is sufficiently pretty for me, and I don't feel as bad about modifying the handle to improve ergonomics on a cheaper knife, so I'll take the S7. That said, i know it isn't the "best steel for the money" and with GSO-4.1 'factory seconds' selling almost as cheap... *shrug*
 
just checked survive website and the SK4's are OUT OF STOCK, I wonder if they will still be the special price of $149 when they are back in stock

In fact the only thing they have in stock are the gso 4.1 factory seconds for 170 but NO SHEATH and the new 3.5's

some popular knives.
 
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How about s7 vs 154cm? I know 154cm has better corrosion resistance. How about edge holding?

I think I would like 20cv
 
How about s7 vs 154cm? I know 154cm has better corrosion resistance. How about edge holding?

I think I would like 20cv

154CM like 440C has high corrosion resistance and wear-resistance but large carbide aggregates that reduce toughness substantially, particularly as the narrow apex (sharp edge) of the blade, so will the edge will remain sharp against abrasive wear longer than S7, the threshold for impact damage is MUCH lower (almost half that of even 20CV). With a robust apex geometry, one can avoid blowing out the entire edge on minor impacts, but this sacrifices cutting efficiency. With 20CV, you get much higher wear-resistance, higher corrosion resistance, and ~2X the toughness of 154CM to keep your blade sharper (taken to a thinner apex) longer (able to hold that apex) under all conditions... but it costs more.

154CM is a fine steel for hunting, skinning, food-prep, etc. and can be taken to a very fine edge, but care must be taken to use the steel within its threshold of tolerance. High wear-resistance and corrosion-resistance doesn't help the knife if you twist the edge and thereby crack off the apex. With S7 or 20CV, the edge will bend more first so it can be steeled/repaired more easily without having to re-grind the bevel. But again, in abrasive cutting, the S7 edge will wear away more quickly and require regrinding more often.
 
Was looking at the Ontario blackbird as an Alaska hunting knife. Might do the trick. Just won't use it chopping or batoning. Would like a gap in 20CV but the blackbird is half the price
 
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